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mccoy

Melted diff in TamTech

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hi all, just recently upgraded my tamtech fox to brushless with a 3s 11.1v lipo and what happened? it only lasted about 5 min until it wouldnt drive anymore. pulled it apart and little peices of melted diff was everywhere. l notice many people have upgraded the little tamtechs to brushless systems and the question is did this happen to you and how do we over come this?

thanks

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I race my Tamtech every week with an Orion Vortex brushless system and a 6000kv motor. When I got the car I knew I was going to race it so right from the start I got the Atlas steel diff halves and ceramic diff balls. I also got the 3Racing version 2 steel cvds and the car has been fantastic. I am using a 1300mah LiPo battery and the car is well able to keep up with anything else on the track in terms of straight line speed. If you are racing or just bashing I would recommend the GB02 front end conversion and the side impact bars. The front end is MUCH stronger than the GB01 set up and the side impact bars protect the rear wishbones and also give you an alternative aerial mount which allows you to dremel the top plate flat, giving you more room for your electrics. hope this helped mate. :D

On a side note, if you struggle to find the Team Atlas diffs, 3Racing make steel diff halves for the GT01 which look the same. I have not tried these though so I can't be 100% that they fit.

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A melted diff means the diff was too loose and the slipper was too tight. If the ball diff isn't tight enough the balls will slip on the washers, the friction meaning the balls get very hot which melts the plastic gear. t sounds like it was fine with the kit motor but the extra torque of the new motor overcame the friction and spun the balls in the diff. Many run with the kit parts no problem, just make sure the diff will not slip and it should be fine.

The slipper clutch should also be set so that it slips before the ball diff does to prevent this from happening.

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I agree with Terry SC. I run an experimental 4wd GT-01 with a 9000kv Novak motor and a 12.4 v 3s lipo. The only thing I've been able to melt is 2 ESC's, 1 motor, and several sets of tires. The diffs and slipper have proven to be bullet-proof. May want to check that diff closely when you rebuild it. Also, with that much power, it's a calculated guess on how much tension you use with the slipper. Good luck.....

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