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dan12

Best Silvercan?

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Hi all

Looking to get a new silvercan and was wondering which one is best?

Johnson or Mabuchi?

I think the RS540Sh is best right?

I have the specs of both sorts.

Also best way to break them in.

thanks

PS i would be using a 8.4v.

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The lowest turn your speed controller will allow,hpi 15T

or the ansmans are very good value and fast

breakin slow and steady if you can :)

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The lowest turn your speed controller will allow,hpi 15T

or the ansmans are very good value and fast

breakin slow and steady if you can :)

I have a teu101bk, so want a good silvercan or maby dirt tuned motor.

What is the best silvercan?

how long do i water dip it for?

cheers

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Dan, I'm no expert but I'm sure I read elsewhere that the johnson silvercans with 4 vent holes around the casing were better than the same motor with 2 vent holes. This may be for older motors, so used on eBay, but possibly still holds true although I have no idea what tamiya stock silvercan is these days

Found the article now..

http://home.intekom.com/modelboats/car/pitalk/cheat1.htm

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Dan, I'm no expert but I'm sure I read elsewhere that the johnson silvercans with 4 vent holes around the casing were better than the same motor with 2 vent holes. This may be for older motors, so used on eBay, but possibly still holds true although I have no idea what tamiya stock silvercan is these days

Found the article now..

http://home.intekom.com/modelboats/car/pitalk/cheat1.htm

Yer, the 4 slot are very fast, they are 23t and will keep up with sport tuned motors.

I think i will just get a new johnson 2 slot and water dip it a oil it well. They go very well on 7 cell.

thanks

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After reading that thread I went looking at my box of old silvercans, taken out of wrecks I'd bought on eBay. Found I had 2 of the four vent variety, one of which came from a £10.50 hotshot wreck. Not tried any of them to see what they're likevondition wise but they might just do as a short term powertrain for my clod project :)

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I tried a very tidy looking 4 slot motor and ended up being the slowest car down the straight. Later I was told by a friend that I should persist with that motor but give it a little bit of treatment. He suggested running it under water in reverse for 3 - 4 hours at 3 volts, then you put it in a hot water cylinder cabinet for a few days till it is completely dry. Then use a little bit of sewing machine oil, the very fine watery kind on the bushes at both ends. I'm yet to do this but I think it works, he wins his races 90 % of the time with a good ole "treated" 4 slotter...

worth a shot :)

James

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The answer is neither and both.

The motors are built to the same spec with the same armature wind, same magnet size, same brush spec.

The best Mabuchi will beat the worst Johnson, and the best Johnson will beat the best Mabuchi. The big difference over normal racing motors is that as they are mass produced there is a wide variation in performance between them, those who are really serious about spec class racing with 27 turn closed can motors will buy 10-20 motors, test each one then race with the best. The one that revs the fastest is not necessarily the best as that could also mean that's the one with the weakest magnets.

How to get the best performance out of 540 motors, either Mabuchi or Johnson:

1) Buy lots of them, test them and pick the best.

2) Get a good quality ESC. Running a no limit ESC like the Tekin FX Pro will make any 540 fly compared with the basic Tamiya ESC.

3) Cheat by getting lower turn versions, like the 4 slot motor, HPI Saturn 20T, HPI Firebolt 15T r any of the other variations that look just like a standard 540, or retiming a standard motor.

If you really want to stick with a 27 turn 540 then you will have to look for an old Johnson motor that has 62200 printed on it. You won't find them in the shops though, Johnson made them in the 90s and the modern versions aren't as fast. Good luck on finding a brand new 10+ years old motor.

For running in, the best treatment is to first bed in the brushes by water dipping, then polish and lubricate the bushings. Water dip a new motor running on 7.2v for between 15-20 seconds, any longer won't make much difference. Now flush the water out by spraying motor cleaner or Isopropyl Alcohol spray into the can. Leave to dry for 20-30 minutes then start on the bushings.

You just need to take off any high spots in the bushings, so use toothpaste as a grinding paste, it's light enough to not take much off the bushings. Push toothpaste between the bushings and shaft, then run on 3 or 4 cells for 5 minutes. Flush the toothpaste out with the cleaner again. Now lubricate the bushings with a proper bushing oil designed for the job, such as Muchmore CHE-SM Spin Lube for bushings. Keep on lubricating the bushings with the bushing lube regularly, letting them dry out will cause excess wear to the bushings.

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fish them 62200s out of 1990s kits :lol:

DSC04385.jpg

Wow, how do those old 4 slots go then will chang?

Thanks Terry sc for the infomation, i was thinking of dipping them for min, they would of been worn out by then!

Are the HPI saturn motors any good?

How much of a difference would the no limit esc make, im not racing, just bashing, thats why i like the johnson motor as they are so duable and torque...and very cheap!

thanks

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yeah we raced them... as you can see the chunky big fat wires on the top 3 :lol:

The only way to tell a good motor from the rest is to run them, lap time is everything.

Dynos will only tell you so much... whereas some silvercans will rev higher, others have more torque.

Need to gear each motor individually for the track, may be 1-3 pinion teeth different between motors.

If you're only bashing, buy an EZRUN brushless combo. More efficient, less maintenance!

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If you're only bashing, buy an EZRUN brushless combo. More efficient, less maintenance!

And cheaper for a complete system than a decent no limit esc!!!!

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And cheaper for a complete system than a decent no limit esc!!!!

Yes, but i only want to spend £20!

I am saving the rest for shocks and tyres.

A tuned Johnson would be fine for bashing in dirt and stuff with 7cell?

If i find it lacks in power then i will just shuv in a 8cell pack, right?

Does this make sense?

Willychang: Does the big bore wires help to keep them cool, as i will be running some v's?

thanks

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How much of a difference would the no limit esc make, im not racing, just bashing,

Which makes all this discussion comparing motors irrelevant.

You will only notice the difference between motors of the same wind against a stopwatch or lap counter, you won't notice much difference, if any, if you are just bashing.

If you want more speed then just go for a lower wind. The 20 turn HPI Saturns are good, although obviously the greater speed means less runtime and it wears out faster, and the gear ratio needs to be adjusted correctly to get the best out of them. You don't want to run them on more than 7.2v.

Willychang: Does the big bore wires help to keep them cool, as i will be running some v's?
if anything the thick wires means the motor runs hotter, but the wire are cooler as they have a lower resistance.

When racing you do everything to get every single hundredth of a second off your laptime, so you use the highest spec ESC you can, Deans/Powerpole/Traxxas/Corally battery connectors instead of the Tamiyas to cut down on resistance, and thick wires directly soldered between motor and ESC again to keep resistance to a minimum, which means the motor gets a few extra hundredths of a volt to get a fraction more speed as hundredths of a second can make a difference on the racetrack.

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Dan,

I don't know if you're still looking for 540-size motor, and I don't know the specs of these, apart from they are allowed for DT02 cup in Germany, so they should run on a TEU-101. You can have them for the shipping cost (45DKK = £5), if you're interested. They came with a bulk purchase I did on the bay, and chances are that I will never use them. One is brand new, and the two other have been briefly tested and found OK. Send me a PM for details, if you're interested. Does anybody know the specs? They are Carson 11086 and 11087 numbers.

carsonmotors.jpg

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