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Posted

I'm wanting to restore my super champ metal parts and was wondering for those of you who have glass beaded your parts, did you use medium,fine or extra fine glass beads or have any of you used aluminum oxide? Any tips would be appreciated as I'm going to be doing this myself.

Posted

I have alot of experience glass beading aluminum parts in Automotive 1:1 restorations. Use the finest glass beads you can get for your parts if you are just going for a slick finish. Larger beads are better for removal of paint and years of crust....................

Posted
The srb pot metal responds well to nice tickle of kitchen grade sodium bicarbonate at 75-90psi.

I would go with this reccomendation. Bead blasting will put a textured finish on the parts even at 40psi, I use it mostly for car and motorbike parts (full size, not models). Walnut shell is another option.

I have a shotblasting/beadblasting/powder coating/painting company and bead blast stuff on a daily basis.

Posted
I'm wanting to restore my super champ metal parts and was wondering for those of you who have glass beaded your parts, did you use medium,fine or extra fine glass beads or have any of you used aluminum oxide? Any tips would be appreciated as I'm going to be doing this myself.

working in the aerospace industry,painting and finishing various jet engine parts for among others Rolls-Royce,Westland & Boeing,aluminium oxide 120/220 mesh at 30psi then sodalime glass bead 200/300 microns at 25psi,works fine for me !,have a look at my showroom for more detailed information and photos.........

Posted

Thanks for all the info. Scorcher kid, when you used the glass bead did it leave a rough surface as described above? I found some glass bead on ebay. it was #13 Ultra "powder" fine grit,they also have lower grits as well if this is too fine. It looks like it's made by a company called Pro Blast. As far as the microns go they never gave it.Also what is meant by the term peening?

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