EddScott

Optima project

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When I was young I used to take the bus into Oxford on the weekend and I could spend hours in the local hobby shop - Howes (when they used to be in the centre of town) I always remember them having Kyosho kits. There was only a few toy shops in the area and all of them had Tamiya except Howes. It made the Kyosho cars seem more exotic and the later Optimas always looked more "racey" than Tamiya kits. I remember the Mid Customs, SE, Specials all up on the shelves and wishing so much that I could have one.

Now I know there are many versions of Optima and the reason why I haven't been too specific about which Optima is because what I'm intending is going to be more of a "BitsOptima" than a specific version - probably not one for the purists but I do intend to have it looking as standard as possible at least with the shell on.

I'm thinking of a box art looking LWB Mid. I want to use the Fibre-Lyte carbon chassis - they do lots of carbon parts for the mid and have LWB mid chassis bottom and upper decks and I'd like to use their other carbon parts.

I've just won this

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vie...e=STRK:MEWNX:IT

Suspect its nothing more than a pile of bits but I guess thats part of the fun :P Hopefully there will be something useful in that lot!!

I'll post some pics once it arrives and whether I've just wasted £40 :)

Got some question if anyone knows the following:-

Are the gearbox housings the same for all Mids

Are the wishbones the same

Are the suspension mounts different

Are the diffs the same

What transmission differences are there between the Mid and the LWB Mid Special - I've seen the conversion kits which are big bucks on ebay. I think the main thing I'll need is the front belt and covers.

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Welcome to the world of Optimas! Yes, please post some pics when your car arrives. We'd like to see the transformation. Especially after seeing the garbage pics the seller used. As for your questions:

1) I'm pretty sure the gear boxes are the same for all Mids

2) Same with suspension arms

3) Suspension mounts should be the same

4) As are the diffs

5) The LWB has a different chassis and pretty much everything in between. Top deck, belt covers, etc.

Good luck!

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Welcome to the world of Optimas! Yes, please post some pics when your car arrives. We'd like to see the transformation. Especially after seeing the garbage pics the seller used. As for your questions:

1) I'm pretty sure the gear boxes are the same for all Mids

2) Same with suspension arms

3) Suspension mounts should be the same

4) As are the diffs

5) The LWB has a different chassis and pretty much everything in between. Top deck, belt covers, etc.

Good luck!

IM with Richie, only differences are the odd ESC/MSC mount plates OT-96, OT-110 etc, Bodyshells and wheels, apart form that all parts are pretty much generic across the range, the SWB used OT-91 chassis and OT-92 radio plate or OTW-3 chassis and OT-921 plate, LWB used Ot-122 alloy plate, frp plate or carbon plate same chassis just different material, also the upper readio plate was OTW-6 and is longer than OT-92, belts for SWB are OT-89 or W0105-1 and for LWb are OTW-7.

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Cool, thanks for the tips.

Fibre-Lyte have lots of nice carbon parts for the Mid plus the LWB chassis.

RC Screwz have a set for the Optima Mid so probably ordering two to cover any differences in the LWB version (also buying an Avante set IF I build my 2011 and an Egress set which is next for a refurb job after the Optima.

Finally, turnbuckles will be Lunsford items with their ball joints and end cups.

Quite like the look of the alloy wheel sets that are on ebay too.

Really excited about this project :lol:

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Box arrived in the post this morning.

gallery_1222_96_125286.jpg

Hmmmmm "bits" hmmmmmm

Bags of random spares

gallery_1222_96_1739.jpg

These will prove useful.

gallery_1222_96_34339.jpg

And finally the Optima Mid herself

gallery_1222_96_97407.jpg

First impressions are no surprise - its a bit tired looking B)

Can't pick it up with my camera off the phone but the steering is connected to the servo by a melted chunk of plastic! Everything is sloppy as heck and pretty much everything will need replacing.

On the plus side, the transmission feels OK. Diffs work and feel smooth (ish) and everything moves forward and back OK. I intend to change all the shocks, arms, castor blocks, chassis, screws, turnbuckles so the only thing I really need to be salvageable is the transmission.

So all in all quite happy and should be a good platform. Probably make a start this weekend while watching the Aus GP.

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Stripped the car down while the Aus GP qualifying was on. I've decided to work on the car on GP weekends only to help spread cost and make the project last.

My first question - What grease should be in the diffs? Didn't appreciate until I took them apart that they are very much like 1/8 buggy diffs. The grease that is in there is like fudge!!!

Horrible rear arms. Driveshafts aren't even straight. That bit of wire is to take up the slack of the hole for the low arm pin - not good.

med_gallery_1222_96_21394.jpg

Not seen a clean for a while

med_gallery_1222_96_82998.jpg

Rather sorry looking

med_gallery_1222_96_90506.jpg

Was hoping the transmission could be re-used but its had it :lol: The front diff doesn't look too bad though.

med_gallery_1222_96_83155.jpg

This is what I mean by fudge - at the consistency. Is this right?

med_gallery_1222_96_236241.jpg

We end this post with two cases of parts. In better news, the front and rear arms you can see are actually unused so that saves a few coins.

med_gallery_1222_96_11257.jpg

There really isn't much that is going to find its way on to the finished car. Gearbox cases, those unused arms and probably not much else!!

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The Servo Saver set to replace your sloppy melted steering set up is Kyosho part number UM-14 a nice new one might help it steer corners lol.

P.S. I hope that Red Bull of Vettels has engine trouble this year (OR can we rely on Mr Webber to run him off the track again?, heres hoping), Go Hamilton!!

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Thanks for the part number. Going to buy a few clunkers and build one from them all. Looking forward to the Fibre-Lyte bits to arrive.

Seb is going to be hard to beat. Hope Petrov can build on his third and its not just a one off - gutted Kubica isn't driving. Shame the "other" Lotus team hasn't moved further up the grip with effectively a 2010 Red Bull rear package.

Shame Williams didn't score - was hoping for more after visiting Williams for an investment conference.

Snuck my old man in as "work experience lad"

med_gallery_1222_96_905075.jpg

Used my phone for pics - a mate said you couldn't take pictures so didn't take my camera.

med_gallery_1222_96_47493.jpg

med_gallery_1222_96_311.jpg

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Your lucky to go in there! I've just cleaned out a TL01 chassis that had the 'fudge stuff' in. Was everywhere! I want a Optima Mid SWB now for my 6r4 shell!!!!!!!!

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Got some lovely carbon fibre bits in the post today.

med_gallery_1222_96_186564.jpg

I have another question though - The driveshafts - are they the same length front and back? Haven't looked but I need to know as I want to get CVDs for it if possible.

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Yes, it uses the same size universals/CVD front and back. Nice carbon fiber there. I used some of their parts for an RC10 build.

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Cant wait see all that gorgeous carbon! Gunna look fantastic! Quite question what is the wheelbase?

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Cleaned up the gearbox cases and hub carriers. Only one rear carrier is useable and only one front carrier. Only one front knuckle is useable and both of the front UJs are bent :unsure:

To be honest, I would have saved myself £35 by starting from scratch rather than buying a car to restore!

Ordered 2 sets of RC Screwz - Optima, Avante 2011 (decided to build the Avante, sort of, maybe..)

Put together a list of parts I require in excel and if I buy it all using ebay prices it's going to make the Avante look cheap :P

UJs - Seems the Lazer LA245 should fit front and back and I want pinned hex drives.

Centre Gear

Ball diffs front and rear. Think the diff sets are the same so just need front and rear drive gears.

Shaft pins - probably get away with re-using the original ones but they look a bit worn.

Bearings - not sure whether to get a set taken from a new kit or an aftermarket set.

Rear wing mount - Going to go for the ones on Ebay made from alloy from the dude in Korea

Bodyshell - Mid Special shell with blue sticker sets rather than red (think this is available from the dude in Kuwait)

Gear cover

Front hubs

Rear hubs

Front knuckles

Carbon Parts - Already got these

Slipper clutch (the gear protector thingy)

belt

steering links

anti roll bars

Wheels - Again, going for the alloy Optima ones with the holes

Tyres - Close to kit as possible.

shock absorbers - Not too fussed going for the gold shocks and have developed the idea of using the ones from the current Lazer SP - nice anodised blue bits

top gear shaft set

Anodising - going to get the metal arm mounts and the two supports (between chassis and top deck) anodised in blue and emailed a company that anodise ally.

Turnbuckles - going to use Lunsford ones all round

Don't suppose anyone could confirm if the Lazer SP shocks will fit the Optima?

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Cleaned up the gearbox cases and hub carriers. Only one rear carrier is useable and only one front carrier. Only one front knuckle is useable and both of the front UJs are bent :)

To be honest, I would have saved myself £35 by starting from scratch rather than buying a car to restore!

The plastic parts should be available for cheap if you search on the part number. Some of them are still used on recent Kyosho cars.

Centre Gear

What center gear? The Kyosho spurs are available for cheap. The hardened rear gearbox gearset (aftermarket) will cost you some, as it is quite hard to get (I think I paid 40 bucks for mine).

Ball diffs front and rear. Think the diff sets are the same so just need front and rear drive gears.

IIRC, the gears are not the only difference. Try to get the diffs with separate diff rings, not the ones that use the platter as diff rings.

Bearings - not sure whether to get a set taken from a new kit or an aftermarket set.

You could try to clean the original bearings and re-oil them. I've found that Kyosho's metal-shielded ball bearings are excellent and can often be reconditioned. Otherwise, buy aftermarket ball bearings, e.g. from http://www.avidrc.com/.

Rear wing mount - Going to go for the ones on Ebay made from alloy from the dude in Korea

Won't that get bend in a roll-over?

Front hubs

Rear hubs

Front knuckles

If you don't mind, you can get the later plastic front knuckles for $3 or so...new. C-hubs and rear hubs should be easy to get, but be aware that Kyosho sold updated rear hubs for the Tour Force cars under the same part number as the original Optima hubs.

steering links

Turnbuckles - going to use Lunsford ones all round

I think it's possible to find the original hop-up steel turnbuckles from Kyosho for retail prices - considerably cheaper than Lunsford turnbuckles.

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Thanks for the advice on the bearings.

Re the ball diffs - do you know what the differences are? I was told that if I got the front and rear gear sets for the ball diffs, 2 fron diff sets will provide the right parts??

Think your right on the rear wing mount.

By centre gear I mean the intermediate gear between diff and drive input shaft gear. I've seen metal ones but would probably just eat the plastic ones. I've read on the net about finer pitch aftermarket gears.

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Thanks for the advice on the bearings.

Re the ball diffs - do you know what the differences are? I was told that if I got the front and rear gear sets for the ball diffs, 2 fron diff sets will provide the right parts??

Think your right on the rear wing mount.

By centre gear I mean the intermediate gear between diff and drive input shaft gear. I've seen metal ones but would probably just eat the plastic ones. I've read on the net about finer pitch aftermarket gears.

I'd say you'd lose the wing (and rear gearbox) long before you managed to bend an alloy mount.

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Re the ball diffs - do you know what the differences are? I was told that if I got the front and rear gear sets for the ball diffs, 2 fron diff sets will provide the right parts??

One of the diffs uses an aluminium spacer and the other a plastic one, at least on the ball diffs that came with my MID.

By centre gear I mean the intermediate gear between diff and drive input shaft gear. I've seen metal ones but would probably just eat the plastic ones. I've read on the net about finer pitch aftermarket gears.

The stock intermediate gear is **** and will get eaten by normal transmission action (and destroy the other gears in the process). There's an aftermarket set by Thorp Dirt Burners that replaces both the intermediate gear and the layshaft gear. It is hard to find and expensive, but at least your rear ball diff gear will stay in one piece.

Just make sure you get the version for the Optima MID, and not the one for the original Optima.

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Trawling through ebay looking for Optima parts, I've found this

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Kyosho-Optima-Option...=item45fa056da9

Optima Mid One-way. Rare item I would imagine. Certainly rare to rock up on UK shores anyway.

Thanks to Ebay rules I can't bid or contact the seller as they won't ship to UK - you used to be able to contact and at least ask :lol:

Would anyone be interested in bidding in this for me? I know its a big ask but Would be happy to pay all costs etc (please PM if possible)

It's become very hard to see things on ebay that aren't shipped to UK - not sure if its the same elsewhere. I found one guy in Asia selling loads of old cars but when looking at "other sales" it came up blank but he had lots of cars - ebay rules getting very draconian.

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Trawling through ebay looking for Optima parts, I've found this

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Kyosho-Optima-Option...=item45fa056da9

Optima Mid One-way. Rare item I would imagine. Certainly rare to rock up on UK shores anyway.

Thanks to Ebay rules I can't bid or contact the seller as they won't ship to UK - you used to be able to contact and at least ask B)

Would anyone be interested in bidding in this for me? I know its a big ask but Would be happy to pay all costs etc (please PM if possible)

It's become very hard to see things on ebay that aren't shipped to UK - not sure if its the same elsewhere. I found one guy in Asia selling loads of old cars but when looking at "other sales" it came up blank but he had lots of cars - ebay rules getting very draconian.

Ive never had this happen to me.

If items say 'no international bidders' I ask anyway.

90% of the time they say they'll make an exception for an Aussie! :lol:

Maybe try searching from ebay.com or ebay.com.au?

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Ebay have done this recently. It's such a pain. Can't even contact the seller through their page. Tried to bid but it won't let me.

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Ebay have done this recently. It's such a pain. Can't even contact the seller through their page. Tried to bid but it won't let me.

Easy way round that one chaps, if you have a buddy in USA, just add his USA address to your ebay account and then select this is your shipping address, then ask the question then change it back to your regular address, at least you get your question sent, if the seller wont ship outside USA (lots of them dont like to, something to do with the 20 seconds it takes to fill in the customs sticker lol) then you need a buddy in USA who can forward mail for you and perhaps you could do the same for him, call it a reciprocal agreement.

It happened a lot to me so i use this method myself.

Cheers

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I would if I knew someone in the states - they would also need an ebay account as I can't even bid :rolleyes:

I looked into getting one of those US mailbox things (I've thought about this before when buying parts for my Jeep Cherokee - not too popular here in the UK but in the US, theres loads of aftermarket shiney things ) but you have to pay $30 up front plus all the shipping. End up costing me $60 in post for an item costing $20.

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I think we've started a trend, It's downright Optima-tacular on the bay right now!

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