CC-01 Reliability

[OrangeSport]

Hi all, just wondered if all you CC-01 owners could let me know how trouble free (or not) you find the model. I'm starting to get a bit fed up with mine, and it is heading for a life on the shelf if doesn't start to behave. But, that would be a shame as it is great fun. The trouble is silly little problems on a regular basis. Shock mounts undoing, locked diff undoing and chewing up the bolts, various bits just undoing...

I don't think it's me - I've built plenty of other models which all run without a hitch (apart from my driving skills!), but this one seems to need me to take a few tools out for the drive and a really good going over after each run.

So, is this run of the mill for CC-01s?

[TA-Mark]

I've had no issues with either of mine to date. They spend the majority of their life running offroad at slow speed crawling over rough terrain. They're not really built as speedsters.

Mods from the standard instructions are:

* Rear diff only locked. AW grease in front diff.

* GPM alloy steering sets.

* Steel 0.6mod 16 tooth pinions.

* Lengthened dampers for more ride height.

* Cuts on front suspension components to allow a great range of motion for more ride height and sharper steering.

I do threadlock nuts if the nut isn't nylock. And if the plastic is really soft with a vinyl feel (like the lower rear trailing arms) I glue screws into the thread (Learnt this from the step screws on DF01 lower arms). No need to glue screws into the harder ABS type plastic.

[OrangeSport]

Thanks - yes, the lower rear trailing arms are an issue. I have now threadlocked the diff lock. The glue hint could help - cheers...

[Mud-Plugger]

On my XCs which have had, and still get some really hard use, shock mounts, rear suspension arms and the gearbox and transfer case cover have all been replaced with 3mm nyloc nuts and bolts after drilling through the chassis, etc. After your first strip and clean the plastic never bites as it does on first assemebly, and when loading the gearbox if you've locked both diffs, the gearbox cover will start to lift. Basically, if you can, just improve it, then you'll get the very best out of it and realise why it has such a following.

So in answer to your question, it's NOT you!

Mud.

[IBIFTKH]

It's fairly easy to replace the rear links - M4 rod, alu tube, Traxxas Jato rod ends and some screws from the bit box and you're away. GPM make a link kit if you don't want to make your own.

you can go a stage further using the GPM link/shock mount

My CC01 is a crawler with a 55t motor and so far it's been bulletproof. What motor are you using in yours?

[OrangeSport]

Thanks all, some good tips there. Much appreciated. At least I know it isn't just me!

Looks like it can be sorted.

I also use a 55T crawler motor....

Thanks

[igbandy]

Junfac also make a nice link kit for the CC-01 that comes with a very useful skid plate as well.

[Henk4Focus]

Sold a few XB Land Cruisers and the rear step screws on the rear trailing arm is the most anoying of all the little niggles with the CC chassis. I am running out of spare ones out of my spares box to replace the ones clients loose. Other than that seems to hold together just fine. No one has come back yet with the dreaded steering jam. Touch wood............

[OrangeSport]

Thanks all,

I have ordered some shiny stuff!!! I have a link kit and steering set on the way.

A skid plate also looks like it could be worthwhile - mine has dug in a few times, although the design of the new kit looks like it might be less likely to do that.

Thanks for all the help..

[OrangeSport]

I have received the GPM suspension links, shock mounts and steering kit.

I must say that I am not that impressed in some ways. The shock mounts and suspension links work well, look good and seem well made. But, no instructions come with the kits, and it isn't that obvious how it all goes together. It wouldn't hurt to include an exploded diagram..

The steering kit is pretty disappointing. I had heard a lot of good things about, so perhaps I was expecting too much. Again, no instructions and the bearings and spacers do need to go in in the right order, so it wouldn't hurt to include some. The lower bearings are a really tight fit. The kit didn't improve the amount of slack in the system, and gave less lock than the standard kit equipment. I have actually taken this all back off and added the stock set-up again.

Bit of a moaning post - sorry. But at least the rear suspension is better than it was out of the kit, and with the spacers removed from the rear shocks and added to the front shocks it is now set up really nicely and the front and rear are pretty well balanced (so it's not all bad after all).

[TA-Mark]

IThe steering kit is pretty disappointing. I had heard a lot of good things about, so perhaps I was expecting too much. Again, no instructions and the bearings and spacers do need to go in in the right order, so it wouldn't hurt to include some. The lower bearings are a really tight fit. The kit didn't improve the amount of slack in the system, and gave less lock than the standard kit equipment. I have actually taken this all back off and added the stock set-up again.

The steering kit fixes a major flaw in the kit standard design. If you get a bit of grit down the plastic tube it will jam the steering. The GPM kit prevents grit getting in there and prevents the steering from jamming up. It's not going to take any of the play out of the steering.

Alloy bellcranks will help with steering play as the 'bent piece of wire' ackerman rod does not chew out the alloy as quickly as it chews out the holes on the plastic bellcranks. Better quality ball cups have a tighter fit and remove more of the steering play.

[OrangeSport]

Thanks - I can see how it would solve that problem now you've pointed it out...

Cheers

[OrangeSport]

I've had another try with the steering kit from GPM. The problem with the limited lock was that the top arm (inside the chassis) doesn't clear the wheel arch like the original equipment does. I got round that by adjusting the servo arm and the steering rods so that it doesn't need to. So it now gets full lock in both directions. As mentioned, the play is still present but this kit brings the advantages explained by TA-Mark.

Had a test run this afternoon and it is now steering at leadt as well as standard, but with more reliability. The new suspension links and the way I have now set up the dampers have really sorted the handling nicely. So, now I am happy.....