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Top Force ready for battle !

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I built this up from left over parts from my Rays. Still had to buy a few parts but was cheaper than a NIB .

I wanted this to be the best i could build in terms of performance. At that stage it was in vintage so no EVO parts were allowed. Since than it's been shifted to classics which is 91 too 95. So i might opt for some evo parts but to honest after some R&D this is very quick and ultra reliable . I decided to run with li po saddel packs. So i custom made some battery straps out of fiberglass and some 3 racing battery post. ( Did notice the handling was better with this set up)

For electrics i went for a Hobby Wing EZ run 9t brushless combo as it's fast but drivable , Digital steering servo, and spectrum.

Shocks are Yeah racing shocks with modified pistons, Losi springs, Standard shock towers but i have a full set of C/F EVO towers if needed.

The diffs are standard RAY open gear diffs with hardend touring out drives for reliability reasons. ( can't say ball diffs are a advantage after much back to back testing) Do have a full set of ball diffs ready though.

Universal drive shafts all round, Ball raced of course, HPI wheels but have Yokomo adapters ready to run JC Racing wheels if needed. EVO turn buckles. Hole Shots all round.

So im ready but i will have a lot of tough racers like YZ10's Lazer ZXR's and etc.

I will be flying the Tamiya Flag very hard at this meeting with all up of 10 runners . Mostly Tamiya with a lone Schumacher Top Cat and MID.


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just thought i would drop a few simple tweaks you may like to try.nothing major but i found them useful for club racing/bashing.

the first one i wrote awhile back,it simply consists of using a motor bullet connector rubber sleeve on each end of the centre prop shaft.

if you have the Tamiya steel shaft,i slid the rubber cover onto each end add slid them to the middle.AW grease on each flat end of the prop.prop into outdrives.then slide the covers onto the brass ring on each proop joint.its a tight fit but does work.

once in place and straight,they keep the grease in and grit out.they also help to dampen any vibration caused by the prop moving in the joints under load.

the second involves abit (not alot) of cutting/trimming plastic.

if you fancy getting abit more robust-ness around the mounting points of the rear arms what i did was to use a second U shaped pin.just the same as the one that holds the front inboard arm connection.

if you trim alittle plastic off the kinda semi circle part at the front/bottom of the rear gearbox,where the motor goes,you can attach the rear arms using the U thing.the pin then spreads any stress between both sides.as it does at the front.

bear in mind to remove the motor mount...its only the gearbox itself that needs trimmed.once the pin is fitted your motor/mount fits on as normal.

its easiest to see if you remove the rear gear box as a whole.youll notice that once removed and the motor taken out,you are left with a small amount of curved motor space plastic stopping you from getting the U pin to slide in from the front.we need it to have the solid cross bar run infront of the rear arms tho.

by trimming alittle at a time from the curve you should be able to squeeze it on without having to trim the curve too far.

it may look slightly like a flat spot on the bottom edge of the curve.

i would take a photo but i sold the Top Force recently (to raise funds for an Avante 2011...but spent the dosh on other Tamiya stuff B) )

not the easiest thing in the world to describe but if you fancy doing the mods just ask if anything needs clarification....

hope its of use to you and best of luck with the racing.fly that flag!

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