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Posted

@ B.M.T. thanks,i was thinking they guy in the comic advert looked like chuck norris then i had a quick look on the net, first film was 1986 at least 3 years after the comic advert. unless the artist was thinking of chuck when he drew it or the thought chuck looked like man in the comic, it's uncanny. if i find the comic will try to remember to add it when i get my attack buggy on tc. can't wait to see your version may the force be with you on your build :) i use it all the time on mine :)

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Posted

Well, I wimped on the X Wing scheme. I'm not a Star Wars nutter, though I do enjoy it. So, I'd probably end up hating it.

So, painting has begun and I had covered the hull in flat black in lines with my SWAT/Tactical Response theme and the plain black just looked, well..... gnaff. So, it's now receiving a light hit on the external surfaces with a dark battleship grey.

I learned a trick from a serious static model friend that in small size a definite colour, like black looks too intense and a dark, dark grey will look more realistically black. Same goes for bold colours in any part of the spectrum for detailing. This won't look black, but dark enough to get the point across.

Posted

got my FAV 2011 on thursday, took exactly 7 days from rcmart, its built now, but having fun trying to upload pics on here, there on FB anyway.

So happy to have this, i had the Wild One when i was a teenager, but always wanted the FAV, now i have one:)

Posted
Well, I wimped on the X Wing scheme. I'm not a Star Wars nutter, though I do enjoy it. So, I'd probably end up hating it.

So, painting has begun and I had covered the hull in flat black in lines with my SWAT/Tactical Response theme and the plain black just looked, well..... gnaff. So, it's now receiving a light hit on the external surfaces with a dark battleship grey.

I learned a trick from a serious static model friend that in small size a definite colour, like black looks too intense and a dark, dark grey will look more realistically black. Same goes for bold colours in any part of the spectrum for detailing. This won't look black, but dark enough to get the point across.

I'm glad you have stuck with this scheme . Attack vehicle swat scheme will look fantastic . I'm not a star wars nut & don't think it would have fitted in with

the job at your hand . So are you doing build pic's " <_< " Would love to see how it's going :unsure: Thanks .

Posted

@ B.M.T. shame you changed your mind, but no good having a paint job you will hate! look forward to the swat special all the same though. i did have some action figures when i was 9-10 but thats as far as it goes honest <_< don't even own a copy of the original films. very good colour tips cheers

Posted

Hey guys, and sorry to disappoint Whelp. But, these would be a p.i.t.a. to recolour later.

Yes, just built. Good old Tamiya... Bolted my motor in and went to feel the drive line... slip slip grind freewheel Seem that they have the same lack of preload on the diff as they did back then. Gearbox back out again...

But I will get you a picture first. Be back soon...

Posted

Thats a shame about the diff, you will no doubt get it right.

If only someone would release a FAV, Wild One, Frog, Hotshot ball diff.

I look forward to your pictures.

Posted

Sorry about the horrid lighting. It looks green! I assure you it's dark battleship grey. And I did paint my E parts. I'll get natural light photos up in my showroom and here day after tomorrow.

P8063120.jpg

P8063121.jpg

No SWAT lettering yet. I used the shocks from my failed WO restoration, and since it was blinged, I slapped on some RC Channel rims.

Posted

looking good already, the rcchannel rims go well with the shocks etc. i have them on my frog no need to glue as the fit is that good. can imagine it will look sharp with the lettering. i have to wait another month to order mine these builds will keep me going till then.

Posted

Ta. Oh, my lights are still in painting.... Haven't forgotten them. Almost....

Well, the diff is shimmy shim shimmed and now has a slight of preload on the center. I shimmed both sides, it looks by the grease smear that the ring gear was touching the right side of the housing.

Posted

Shame to here your diff did an original lol, did you put the 850 bushing and washer in?

I had a Wild one back in the day and the amount of time that gearbox got pulled out.........

this new one has been super sweet.

Posted

No, not that extreme. A std 5mm id washer on the diff side, the included 5mm washer and a handfull of shims form my DF03RA in the other. I wouldn't want it any tighter.

Random.

Posted

I put two of the 5mm thin shims from the DF03 left overs on one side of the diff, and the kit supplied washer and 850 brass bushing on the other side. The diff seemed to have a little too much lash for my liking built as the manual described so I added the two DF03 shims. I also used AW grease on the diff bevel gears only, ceramic grease on the diff and counter gears.

Posted
Sorry about the horrid lighting. It looks green! I assure you it's dark battleship grey. And I did paint my E parts. I'll get natural light photos up in my showroom and here day after tomorrow.

P8063120.jpg

P8063121.jpg

No SWAT lettering yet. I used the shocks from my failed WO restoration, and since it was blinged, I slapped on some RC Channel rims.

Man that rocks!! long live the FAV still debating getting one and getting back into RC hmmm...lol... your making it tuffer to resist.

i take it they arent the kit front shocks, what parts did use in that set up?

Posted

Looks great. I've never really liked the militaristic looks of the FAV but I've thought of getting the re-re and doing a scale off road buggy make over to make it more Wild One-ish. Could of course just wait for the Wild One to be re-re'd which I guess will now definitely happen.

Posted
Sorry about the horrid lighting. It looks green! I assure you it's dark battleship grey. And I did paint my E parts. I'll get natural light photos up in my showroom and here day after tomorrow.

P8063120.jpg

P8063121.jpg

No SWAT lettering yet. I used the shocks from my failed WO restoration, and since it was blinged, I slapped on some RC Channel rims.

That looks fantastic B.M.T. !

Could you possible tell us what parts we need from the W.O to install the front shocks? Is it possible to get all the parts in one W.O bag or will I have to buy a few and cull parts from each?

Posted

Oh, that is stretching the memory.... I did my research for shopping from the manuals on the main site before they had to be removed :rolleyes:

I believe that the metal parts or pressed parts bag is all you need to get the front shock towers and lower mounts (the lower mounts are different). Front shocks came as a OP options blister pack, as parts for Hornet, Wild One and Bruiser. The shock bodies are the same as Hornet rears but they have an eye type spring perch rather than the Hornet's ball... which in this part set is spun aluminium. Very pretty. Also note that the preload collar is aluminium too, rather than the red plastic supplied on the Wild One and the black with the Hornet kit.

The rear just go straight on. These are the "Adjustable Racing Shocks" from way back, but Nu-Frog dampers and springs will do the same job. That's it.

Ok Chaps, quick eBay search for Tamiya Wild One brought up the:

Hornet Shock set 50723 @$18.85 AUD ex U.K.

Left Front Damper Stay 4305154 @ 3.75 GBP ex UK

Right Front Damper Stay 4305153 the same as above

Wild One Front Suspension Stay (lower bracket) 4305156 @ 2.50 pound each

There is the entire front end conversion for the fastest buyer. Knock yourselves out.

Posted

Thanks B.M.T. :rolleyes:

I was confused what the hopup dampers were. I'd looked at the 'Wild One' list of parts on ebay but couldn't work out the rear dampers as there was only a pair in the #50273 set. The rears are #50193 and don't have any reference to the Wild One in the listing.

Hopup dampers and mounts for mine bought.

Posted
Ok Chaps, quick eBay search for Tamiya Wild One brought up the:

Hornet Shock set 50723 @$18.85 AUD ex U.K.

Left Front Damper Stay 4305154 @ 3.75 GBP ex UK

Right Front Damper Stay 4305153 the same as above

Wild One Front Suspension Stay (lower bracket) 4305156 @ 2.50 pound each

There is the entire front end conversion for the fastest buyer. Knock yourselves out.

You are a gent! Thanks a lot!

Posted
Hi Raman

I think I have the equivalent of a #2... not the smallest which is just too fine IMHO. You should be fine with a 3 though. Unless you are planning on doing tiny lines free-hand, you will always be using some sort of masking so as long as it your airbrush gives you the control to lay down nice thin layers of paint, it does not seem to matter how narrow the spray is. Remember, unlike with spray cans, the area you paint at any one time is actually quite small, ie you can paint just one side of the FAV in one go, so you do not need to mask everything at once. Just mask the side you are painting and then when that is done remove the mask and stick it on the next bit.

You can also get 2 different finishes really easily. If you want hard-edged camo, use the silly putty and press it tight into the model. If you want softer edged camo such as TamORs in the photo above, put a blob of the putty where you want to mask and then place a pre-cut piece of paper (I use post-it notes) in the shape of the camo over it so that the paper "hovers" over the area you want masked. Then paint away and when you remove the mask you will see that some of your paint has gently sprayed under the paper creating a soft blurring to the edges.

Either way, if you don't like the finish, just paint over it again. I believe there are parts of the Tiger which have 4 or 5 attepts on before I was happy, but you cannot see any of the mistakes because each paint layer is so thin. I think it is the ability to re-do things that has made the airbrush such a great tool. With spray cans, if I did not like the finish it usually meant hours of paint stripping and sanding before I could have another go.

Got my base coat of dark yellow down. Picked up some silly putty. Will have to wait till Sunday for some "personal hobby time" LOL.

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