Torhaantje 66 Posted April 14, 2011 Hi all, I am currently restoring a Blazing Blazer body. Is there a method or product to fillout those tiny marks and scratches wich primer doesn't fill and the regular putty is too thick for? I was thinking in the line of 'liquid putty'. Does anyone has any experience or tips? Any help is greatly appreciated. Cheers, Rick Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kokuzu 5 Posted April 14, 2011 Hi all, I am currently restoring a Blazing Blazer body. Is there a method or product to fillout those tiny marks and scratches wich primer doesn't fill and the regular putty is too thick for? I was thinking in the line of 'liquid putty'. Does anyone has any experience or tips? Any help is greatly appreciated. Cheers, Rick Yes - you need patience. First of all, clean the body and let it dry before applying putty to the scratches. Otherweiseit won't stick or connect to the ABS. Then you need to apply grey (thick) filler in multiple layers, always letting one layer dry before grinding down the remaining filler around the scratch. Alternative 1: Fill the scratch with 2-component filler as you can get it for real cars, it's thicker than the liquid filler, and finer than the putty. Alternative 2: As crazy as this sounds, sometimes deepening the scratch so it can hold the putty does the trick. Smoothen the filled whole with grey filler. I could manage so far with those three methods and smooth every body-issue. Check here for my hard-body example before and after: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WillyChang 1814 Posted April 14, 2011 at the auto paInt store u can find HighBuild Primer in aerosol cans, probably closest to what you're dreaming of Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bad andy 6 Posted April 14, 2011 CA glue. hobby-grade, gap-filling viscosity. Works well on polystyrene bodies. I used it all the time in my mecha building days. Also very cool to mix CA with talcum powder to get varying thicknesses of "putties" to fill holes, gaps, cracks, etc. Search google for SGT (super-glue talcum powder) for some info on the techniques. It's really cool stuff, dries fast, easily sand-able to a smooth finish. And cheap as all get out. I never had great luck with modeling putties. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kevin_Mc 411 Posted April 15, 2011 this is exactly what high build primer is meant for Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Torhaantje 66 Posted April 15, 2011 Thanks guys for your replies! I already used Timya's grey primer, but dont't know if it is compatible with the high build primer some of you mentioned, does anyone know? I will try the different methods you described. @ Schaumat: what a great restauration you did on the body! Cheers, Rick Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WillyChang 1814 Posted April 15, 2011 All Tamiya's several different spray primers are very thin so they won't occlude 1/24 model's details. When doing larger shells there's no real loss using stuff from autopaints. Especially when refinishing a used shell with a bit of roadrash. Most high build primer cans that i've seen don't have additives... ppl usually use them only AFTER the surface has been etchprimed or flexy-fillered and you've rasped it flat. One or 2 coats of high-build then sand, then a colourcoat-suitable primer before a mist of black paint which you then block off leaving just the primer. Tamiya's 1-part putty that comes in a tube... that stuff continues shrinking for a very long time. If you use it to patch roadrash you'll see the gouges reappearing under the paint. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Thin Lizzy 0 Posted April 20, 2011 Hi all, I am currently restoring a Blazing Blazer body. Is there a method or product to fillout those tiny marks and scratches wich primer doesn't fill and the regular putty is too thick for? I was thinking in the line of 'liquid putty'. Does anyone has any experience or tips? Any help is greatly appreciated. Cheers, Rick Kikker, Rustoleum makes a high-build or filler primer (it's gray) that won't attack styrene. If allowed to dry for several days and then wet-sanded, I'll bet you'll have a smooth surface. I've used it under Testors and automotive lacquers with no lifting or wrinkling. Actually, filler primer is like "liquid putty". LOL Main thing is not to top coat too soon or you will have problems. Sand the primer going from 400- to-600-to 1000, or even 1500 grit wet-or-dry sand paper before top coating with your color coats. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites