EZrun Brushless Query

[loyboy 0]

Hi there, I have a question relating to my new EZrun 9t with 35a esc in a Tamiya Durga.

Under full throttle it seems to accelerate and then after 20-30 seconds almost changes into a higher gear.

1. I am running this through a 23 pinion and a 91t spur gear.

2. The battery is a 7.2V 3000 nimh

3. It seems no quicker than with my ansmann 21t clash.

What am I doing run....help.

Ps. I have programmed the ESC and it makes no difference.

HELP!!!

[Gruntfuggly 562]

Try reducing the punch setting to it's minimum...

[tamiya monkey 243]

Or try a smaller pinion, also you might find your nimh pack cant really supply the current that a brushless system needs.

[karooha MB 0]

I second both solutions, I would say also consider going lipo with the EZrun gear, or getting a good quality 5000+ MAh NiMh Battery.

[loyboy 0]

I second both solutions, I would say also consider going lipo with the EZrun gear, or getting a good quality 5000+ MAh NiMh Battery.

Thanks, it just seems weird that it is no faster than my ansmann clash. I will get a charger and some adapters and put in a LIPO and hope it improves.

[wolfdogstinkus 1893]

My silver cans were faster than an ansmann,

As said try messing with the programme card, maybe adjust the timing as well.

[Magickdog 0]

My silver cans were faster than an ansmann,

As said try messing with the programme card, maybe adjust the timing as well.

I use an EZrun system with a 60 amp ESC in my Ground Pounder. Stock Mod 1 gears and 3 cell, 5000 Mah Lipo. Goes like a rat up a drain pipe. Easy goes 50 mph or so! Way to go

[tamiya monkey 243]

I use the 8.5t motor and 60amp esc in my slash with just 2cell 5200mah lipo, and it aint slow, ive seen plenty of slash's and buggies run with the 9t in and there no slower, so do try a lipo and double check your settings, also make sure you set the lipo cut-off when running a lipo in there.

[TA-Mark 195]

Are you still using the 7.5Amp Tamiya battery plug or have you swapped them out for something that can handle the amount of current a brushless can draw from the battery? 35Amp or 60Amp ESC trying to get power through a 7.5Amp connector makes for a nasty bottleneck.

[tamiya monkey 243]

Are you still using the 7.5Amp Tamiya battery plug or have you swapped them out for something that can handle the amount of current a brushless can draw from the battery? 35Amp or 60Amp ESC trying to get power through a 7.5Amp connector makes for a nasty bottleneck.

never thought about the plug, nice one mark

[loyboy 0]

never thought about the plug, nice one mark

Yes, I am still using the tamiya plugs. I will swap with a decent lipo and new plugs. What can you recommend on the plug front?

Thanks

[Gruntfuggly 562]

I like powerpoles...

[DooBeDooBeDo 0]

I use traxas connectors, but I think just about any of the alternatives to the Tamiya plug will do so long as they make a solid, large surface area connection.

[karooha MB 0]

Good old Deans Connectors are good too!

[TA-Mark 195]

Good old Deans Connectors are good too!

I kinda like the Deans T-Plugs too, but the ones with the ribs on the sides so they are easier to get apart.

[BigJag 36]

I kinda like the Deans T-Plugs too, but the ones with the ribs on the sides so they are easier to get apart.

Any soldering tips please. I keep melting the plastic. Making the connector useless. Am I using to heavy gauge a wire? Causing me to use too much heat. What sort of solder tip is best? Flat or cone?

[TA-Mark 195]

Any soldering tips please. I keep melting the plastic. Making the connector useless. Am I using to heavy gauge a wire? Causing me to use too much heat. What sort of solder tip is best? Flat or cone?

Tin both the wire and the pole first. It takes very little heat to tin the pole if the metal is clean. The wire may need a little more heat to get the solder to take well. Once both are tinned, then press the wire to the pole with the soldering iron on the wire until the tin on the wire and pole both melt, then remove the heat. Hold everything nice and still until everything hardens, then grab the joint with some pointy nose pliers to take away the majority of the heat.

Don't forget to put the shrink up the wire first (I've forgotten before and had resolder the joint again). When doing a battery, only cut one wire at a time then solder and insulate it before doing the next wire to prevent shorting the pack.

I use a cone shaped tip, 60W iron. The Castle MambaMax and the Li-Po packs both have heavy gauge wires. Never had any melt problems from using the heavy gauge wires, but I do try to keep as much heat away from the actual pole as I can and target the majority at the wire.

Holding the plug in a vice or a pair of small vice-grips can make soldering the wire on much easier.

There are a few tutorial videos on youtube for soldering wires to deans plugs.

[BigJag 36]

Tin both the wire and the pole first. It takes very little heat to tin the pole if the metal is clean. The wire may need a little more heat to get the solder to take well. Once both are tinned, then press the wire to the pole with the soldering iron on the wire until the tin on the wire and pole both melt, then remove the heat. Hold everything nice and still until everything hardens, then grab the joint with some pointy nose pliers to take away the majority of the heat.

Don't forget to put the shrink up the wire first (I've forgotten before and had resolder the joint again). When doing a battery, only cut one wire at a time then solder and insulate it before doing the next wire to prevent shorting the pack.

I use a cone shaped tip, 60W iron. The Castle MambaMax and the Li-Po packs both have heavy gauge wires. Never had any melt problems from using the heavy gauge wires, but I do try to keep as much heat away from the actual pole as I can and target the majority at the wire.

Holding the plug in a vice or a pair of small vice-grips can make soldering the wire on much easier.

There are a few tutorial videos on youtube for soldering wires to deans plugs.

Thanks for the tips. I will keep them in mind. Reading them I think keeping things stable is the issue. I was having problems getting the solder to melt after tinning. Got very frustrating.

[Gruntfuggly 562]

That's why I prefer power poles - crimping beats soldering any day...

[TA-Mark 195]

crimping beats soldering any day

Never!! I won't even use a crimped connector on a real car. Crimps are for people who don't know how to solder.

[kaiser 8]

Never!! I won't even use a crimped connector on a real car. Crimps are for people who don't know how to solder.

+1, the only time i use butt/crimp connectors is in low voltage/low amperage applications. rc my be "low volatge" but it's far from low amperage.