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Danielson

My TA02

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Hi people, So I bought this TA02 of ebay a few years back, only wanted it for the body really. I already owned a TA03F with the A4 shell but it had been used and was not mint. so I snapped this up as it had only been used for display. Since then I sold the TA03 and all the other Tamiyas I had collected over the years and just kept this one as I couldn't bare to part with it... Had a few Nitro cars and trucks and a Carson Attack since then. So my Bro in law got the RC bug a year or so back and bought an HPI car and this EZRUN combo. used it maybe 3 times and then it gathered dust. So I snapped it up last weekend and got the ole girl running just today. WOW it's fast, and was really suprised at how smooth it ran and how nicely it handled. I'm using a steel pinion and ally motor mount, full bearing kit of course. One of the steering arms had snapped and been glued back together so I ordered a set of ally ones also.. still waiting on those. Anyway a couple of pics I took of it today.

93e7084b.jpg

5a15d02d.jpg

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That's a beautiful looking TA02, I spent yesterday building one for my son to bash around with me.

Did you order the Yeah Racing alloy arms? I've heard they are the only ones that work on the plastic tub chassis.

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Did you order the Yeah Racing alloy arms? I've heard they are the only ones that work on the plastic tub chassis.

That would be the steering bellcranks. GPM have discontinued the part for the plastic tub and only have the bellcranks for the FRP chassis set. The rest of the GPM alloy parts will work with a plastic tub. Be cautious buying some TA02 parts from Yeah Racing. Yeah Racing don't seem to know the differences between TA01 and TA02.

Great looking TA02 btw. It's a great chassis, runner or otherwise. You have the must haves taken care of (bearings, motor mount, steel pinion).

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That would be the steering bellcranks. GPM have discontinued the part for the plastic tub and only have the bellcranks for the FRP chassis set. The rest of the GPM alloy parts will work with a plastic tub. Be cautious buying some TA02 parts from Yeah Racing. Yeah Racing don't seem to know the differences between TA01 and TA02.

Great looking TA02 btw. It's a great chassis, runner or otherwise. You have the must haves taken care of (bearings, motor mount, steel pinion).

How much difference is there between the two?

I'm thinking about doing something along the lines of an SC10 build.

Which chassis would be better?

*EDIT*

Found the differences here. And here.

I guess a TA01 would be a better base to start with, and swap out the chassis with a TA02, or will the 01 chassis be ok?

Sorry for the high-jack! <_<

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Cheers for the nice replies guys. <_< These are what I ordered.. http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vie...e=STRK:MEWNX:IT

I was looking at the alloy steering parts as I notice a little slop in the steering. I am also tempted by the carbon chassis decks, but havent seen the battery holder anywhere. If I could find that I might go ahead and get the carbon decks. I replaced the rear gear casing as the other had some damage to it. I think I will end up replacing the front case also as it has faded and looks a touch orange in comparison. If I can persuade the missus to come along next time I run the car I will get some video of it in action. Cheers, Dan.

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I thought you'd ordered new steering arms, lol. I managed to take out most of the slop in my steering with new balljoints, cups, and adjustable turnbuckles for the upper arms and steering arms.

The best, and simplest mod was to put a small foam disc under each ball cup to keep a little pressure on the ball and socket. It's worked a treat and there is still enough play in the linkage for it not to be twitchy when I drive it.

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I thought you'd ordered new steering arms, lol.

Whoops, I meant front knuckles.. <_<

I managed to take out most of the slop in my steering with new balljoints, cups, and adjustable turnbuckles for the upper arms and steering arms.

The best, and simplest mod was to put a small foam disc under each ball cup to keep a little pressure on the ball and socket.

Thanks for the advice.

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It works under the tie rod bar too, this is where most of my slop was. I cut up an old tyre insert between two bits of paper in a hole punch. Feed a couple of the pieces on top of the arm when you thread the tie rod on, and no more play.

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Cheers for the nice replies guys. :o These are what I ordered.. http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vie...e=STRK:MEWNX:IT

I was looking at the alloy steering parts as I notice a little slop in the steering. I am also tempted by the carbon chassis decks, but havent seen the battery holder anywhere. If I could find that I might go ahead and get the carbon decks. I replaced the rear gear casing as the other had some damage to it. I think I will end up replacing the front case also as it has faded and looks a touch orange in comparison. If I can persuade the missus to come along next time I run the car I will get some video of it in action. Cheers, Dan.

These are the GPM steering knuckles. A worth while upgrade as the plastic ones split at the kingpins with age. These will not remove slop from the steering. They will strengthen the steering.

The Carbon chassis plates are a hopup for the FRP TA02/FWD chassis set. You first need to get the FRP chassis set, then upgrade that to carbon fibre plates. The sets come up on ebay from time to time at around the scary price of $250 (more than a standard full car kit). The set contains more than just the battery holder. It has the mounts/adapters so that you can bolt the front and rear gearbox to the plates and the steering setup that fits to the plates as well. I picked up a second hand FRP chassis set the other day for around $200, but it also came with three compete FF01 chassis so it was well worth buying.

I guess a TA01 would be a better base to start with, and swap out the chassis with a TA02, or will the 01 chassis be ok?

Sorry for the high-jack! ;)

The TA01 tub and TA02 tub are 20mm difference in length. The TA02 is the better, more developed car for running onroad. The TA01 is derived straight from the offroad DF01 buggy, Manta Ray (the buggy came first) so it's balance is similar to the buggy and not ideal for onroad.

The 20mm of difference in tub length is made up in the TA02's swept back rear arms so that both chassis are still 257mm wheelbase. So the lower arms, both front and rear, are different between the two. The main propshaft is also 20mm shorter on the TA02 because of the shorter tub.

The TA02 shifts the battery weight 20mm further forward in the chassis than the TA01.

The TA01 and TA02 front steering knuckles and dogbones/universals and front axles are very different. Yeah Racing seem to think these are the same on both TA01 and TA02 (what they make is for TA01 only). I've emailed them many times explaining the differences.

The turnbuckle upper arm link set does not fit on a TA01 (differences in suspension allow room on the TA02). The turnbuckle tie-rod set will work on either.

When it all comes down to it, it's almost easier to list what parts are carried over from the TA01 to the TA02 instead of list what changed.

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These are the GPM steering knuckles. A worth while upgrade as the plastic ones split at the kingpins with age. These will not remove slop from the steering. They will strengthen the steering.

I didn't buy them to remove slop from the steering. I bought them as one of the original knuckles has snapped and been superglued back together where the ball connector screws in. ;)

Thanks for the info regarding the FRP and carbon chassis plates.

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Very nice car, do you find though that the drive shaft flexes and vibrates running the Brushless set up? I was running a 19 turn brushed in one and the shaft would flex and whip bumping on the chassis plate creating an awful racket. I am running full bearings and the gearboxes seem smooth, i think I'll get one of the blue alloy shafts from ebay to stop the flexing/noise and power loss. Has anyone else experienced this problem or is it just my car.

rgds mcwee

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The coathanger wire main propshaft is famous fo flopping around and even spitting clean out of the chassis with big power. The slotted type hopup alloy propshafts are better and stronger than the alloy dogbone style ones. I've snapped the heads from a few of the dogbone style sets.

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Very nice car, do you find though that the drive shaft flexes and vibrates running the Brushless set up? I was running a 19 turn brushed in one and the shaft would flex and whip bumping on the chassis plate creating an awful racket. I am running full bearings and the gearboxes seem smooth, i think I'll get one of the blue alloy shafts from ebay to stop the flexing/noise and power loss. Has anyone else experienced this problem or is it just my car.

rgds mcwee

Cheers, I had noticed it wobbles around.. And was thinking of replacing it also ;)

The coathanger wire main propshaft is famous fo flopping around and even spitting clean out of the chassis with big power. The slotted type hopup alloy propshafts are better and stronger than the alloy dogbone style ones. I've snapped the heads from a few of the dogbone style sets.

Can you link me to one Mark? PM if you can't link in the thread. :lol:

Edit, found only the dogbone style ones on AsiaTees.

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Cheers, I had noticed it wobbles around.. And was thinking of replacing it also ;)

Can you link me to one Mark? PM if you can't link in the thread. :)

Edit, found only the dogbone style ones on AsiaTees.

GPM TA2025 main propshaft. Sadly out of stock at Asiatees.com. There's a link at the top of each model's parts list that has a complete list of all hopups made for that chassis. Everywhere I've looked is out of stock :lol:

The dogbone style one is still better than the bent piece of wire. I break them when landing from jumps, which you shouldn't be doing with a touring car, so might be ok strength wise onroad. It's in rally/truck/buggy DF01/TA01/TA02 that I've had issues.

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The drive shaft came today, and I just fitted it.. Did you use the O rings? As it seems very tight with those in place, So I left them out for now.. I noticed that the cup where the driveshaft fits in was catching ever so slightly on the front gear case, so I took a blade to it and trimmed it a bit. I should be ready for Lipo power now. :)

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Hi danielson, have you given the car a run with the new driveshaft? Any noticeable difference both performance and running noise?

rgds Craig

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Hi danielson, have you given the car a run with the new driveshaft? Any noticeable difference both performance and running noise?

rgds Craig

Hi Craig.. I havent ran it as yet, I did hold the car and give it a blip.. Might be a little quieter than it was, but its hard to say tbh. Cheers, Dan.

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Hi peeps!! I would like to buy the black/grey gear cases. Can someone tell me what other cars use these. Ive seen some for Top Force/Manta ray etc.. Not sure if they are the same? I am aware that the Ford F150 uses the same as TA01/02.. Cheers in advance, Dan.

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DF01 (both the scale 4x4 (Hummer) and buggy), TA01 and TA02 use the same gearboxes front and rear. The DF01 buggy (Manta Ray/Top Force) black cases will work fine on a TA02.

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Nice one, thanks for the info guys!! I finally got my alloy knuckles today and fitted those. Very nice quality, so I ordered the C hubs and lightweight king pins too. <_< Hopefully get a chance to run the car at the wkend.

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So I got the new gear cases fitted, had the car completely apart and cleaned every piece.. I think it's looking pretty well now. I ordered a pack of 3x10mm (black) screws of ebay as a few are now looking a little shabby.. Hopefully the wheel hex's and Alloy C hubs will be here next week..

Next purchase will be the alloy rear Knuckles and the rear ARB kit, maybe some adj rear upper arms and universal front driveshafts too.. It seems I have well and truely been bitten by the bug again. :P

d8212565.jpg

Cheers, Dan.

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Nice job mate, chassis looks mint :huh:

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