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StuartUK

TA05, was 4wd, now 2wd ?

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Afternoon all ! :blink:

I'm puzzled with this one, i have a TA05 chassis (i thought it was the MS model but its not, learning as i go!)......

Had an Ansmann 28t motor in, and ran fine, is a 4wd twin belt :lol:

A friend swapped out the motor for a Tamiya black can......

I then raced at a local club, but being new, spent more time ice-skating on carpet and bashing into the sidewalls, LOTS! and its faster!

Got home and thought i would give it a run on the tarmac to see the difference... straight away, the car just spins around, too much power to the rear wheels! :lol:

Car does go fast when i drive it slowly then upto full speed, however, when i picked up it, its then that i noticed the front wheels dont spin, yet the belt/cog is turning at the front..... Being the novice i am, do i have to:

Take the front of the car/shocks/wishbones, etc apart, to look into the housing where the Cog wheel is, to see if somthing eitherside which turns the wheels has come off ?

Or could there be a simplier way to check why the front wheels dont get any power ?

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loose front ball differential

Spot on, you just need to tighten up your ball diff. You need a STD hex (1.5mm) Alan key. The top of the screw should be in the shortest drive cup on the diff.

Don't over tighten it just give it a few turns until it feels firm, and then loosen it just a 1/4 of a turn.

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Spot on, you just need to tighten up your ball diff. You need a STD hex (1.5mm) Alan key. The top of the screw should be in the shortest drive cup on the diff.

Don't over tighten it just give it a few turns until it feels firm, and then loosen it just a 1/4 of a turn.

yep sounds like the front ball diff is loose! just do what Qatmix says.

Its a bit fiddly on the front, its best to take the wheel off and pop off the steering rod and camber rod and pull out the wishbone on the short side (look from above on your diff and you can see the belt is off set to the right on the front and to the left on the rear, in line with the two belts and two center pulleys for each belt, the short side has the small 1.5mm hex nut head, and thrust bearing. The long side holds the tension spring, nut holder & nut) tighten it until it feels firm, don't over tighten it!

Or pop the whole bulk head cover off and have a loog at the diff assembly in detail and check all is ok!

If you haven't got the manual you can down load it here as a PDF (view page 4).

CLICK HERE

Since you have just got the TA05 built the best way to understand it and get used to it is to get your hands dirty. Things loosen or break over time, or you break it your self by accident but its all replaceable and repairable it the whole part of the R/C hobby.

Any further help just shout on here there is always some one who knows about something.

Happy R/Cing

Later

V

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ball diff screw can break, if tightened too much. Or if you sneeze too close to it.

ball diff outdrives can break (on front impact), especially the std kit-issue molded ones

front dogbone could've been ejected on impact, or hopup CVD has lost its pin

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Cheers for the info guys....

I'll be honest, really dont know what i am doing, and am worried i'll mess somthing up!!! I'll take it to my local club on friday and hope someone can show me the way! :lol::)

I did change a motor last night in my DF-01 chassis, realised after it was only 2 screws, where as i took the cogs, prop shaft, etc etc all out last night ! doh!

am getting there! :D

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I did change a motor last night in my DF-01 chassis, realised after it was only 2 screws, where as i took the cogs, prop shaft, etc etc all out last night ! doh!

am getting there! :)

It is a good idea to remove the rear top gear cover when fitting a motor to ensure that the pinion is fitted correctly and it lines up and meshes nicely with the spur gear. The only way to check this is with the top gear cover off.

Also a good chance to check gear wear if you still have the kit DF01 aluminium mainshaft gears (one that fits into the back of the spur) and the aluminium idler gear (the one between the mainshaft and rear diff gear. If they are worn to pointy teeth, replace with a TA02/4WD all plastic gearset as these last much longer than the DF01 aluminium gears (Part #50529).

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Morning all :)

I was at my local RC club on friday, chappy had a look, got it going ok which was good, but after a few smacks into the wall, it went back to 2wd!

Chappy fixed it again, but did say the diff was nailed so aint gonna hold.....

Got back on the track and the diff went before i could hit the wall ! :):D

He had a look again, but said it was nailed, and these pink tiny rubber bits came out, no idea what they are!

Anyway, am guessing i need to buy a new diff (which am guessing is the pulley, the pieces that attach to the pulley and some screws ?), i had a dig around on ebay, but as i'm not 100% certain what to look for, i found a part bag: Tamiya #53877 (Front Direct Coupling) , or i can get Tamiya Hop-up: #53919

Not sure if either are the correct pieces, any thoughts on it?

Cheers all :lol:B)

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Surely you have a manual? This will show you what parts you should have and how to access them. No point guessing at spares.

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Morning all :lol:

I was at my local RC club on friday, chappy had a look, got it going ok which was good, but after a few smacks into the wall, it went back to 2wd!

Chappy fixed it again, but did say the diff was nailed so aint gonna hold.....

Got back on the track and the diff went before i could hit the wall ! :lol::D

He had a look again, but said it was nailed, and these pink tiny rubber bits came out, no idea what they are!

Anyway, am guessing i need to buy a new diff (which am guessing is the pulley, the pieces that attach to the pulley and some screws ?), i had a dig around on ebay, but as i'm not 100% certain what to look for, i found a part bag: Tamiya #53877 (Front Direct Coupling) , or i can get Tamiya Hop-up: #53919

Not sure if either are the correct pieces, any thoughts on it?

Cheers all :) :)

The pink rubber bits are probably the Tamiya urethane bushing. They go inside the diff joints to ensure the swing shaft (or dog bones) stays relatively put (e.g. no movement).

If the diff is coming loose, it means either your diff screw is stripped or you didn't put any lock tight on the screw/nut.

The Front Direct Coupling is a popular choice. It will pull your car out of a corner faster.

Or go with a Gear Diff (e.g. Spec-R or Tamiya Gear Diff) and you don't have to worry about your diff becoming loose. Though you might have to worry about leaky diff oils but there's ways around that ;)

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The pink rubber bits are probably the Tamiya urethane bushing. They go inside the diff joints to ensure the swing shaft (or dog bones) stays relatively put (e.g. no movement).

If the diff is coming loose, it means either your diff screw is stripped or you didn't put any lock tight on the screw/nut.

The Front Direct Coupling is a popular choice. It will pull your car out of a corner faster.

Or go with a Gear Diff (e.g. Spec-R or Tamiya Gear Diff) and you don't have to worry about your diff becoming loose. Though you might have to worry about leaky diff oils but there's ways around that :blink:

Hay,

Seriously don't be afraid to open the thing up and explore the parts and see how its built. As posted previously i have given you a link to the manual. I love my TA05 but bought it second hand from a friend. I felt the same at first and didn't know where to start. TBH the TA05 has a simple, effective and strong drive train. It doesn't take much to take it apart and rebuild, and if done clean and precisely it will hold up for a very long time before it needs any further TLC.

So grab the bull buy the horns and dive straight in, its all part of the hobby. Just get a good screw driver with a good fitting head, and carefully screw off all the bits. upon re-tightening just tighten until firm and stable and the chassis will hold together well.

If you require to re build the diff the parts you need are listed in the manual.

CLICK HERE

I would recommended taking the diff apart! In doing this you can see if any parts could be broken, here are a list of possible reasons.

The thrust bearing is broken/cracked and won't move freely causing the diff to tighten and loosen when rotating and wont work properly.

Small Diff nut holder is worn and the nut slips inside it when you try and tighten it, so the diff never gets tight enough.

Diff nut is worn IE the fine plastic seal inside the thread wont hold the nut on tightly. (you can use thread lock here or get a new nut)

Spool is damaged!? all holes should look correct and not worn/melted/oval. All bearings should sit easily in each hole (the bearings almost click/pop into place if sitting correctly)

Get a clean worktop/table with some elbow room

Roll out a towel to lay down your car and parts

get your tools out

open up the diff by removing the bulkhead cover

pull the diff out and un loop it from the belt

get a 1.5mm hex and from the short side and unscrew.

you now should have a sum of parts

Diff cups x2

Diff Plates x2

Diff Bolt x1

Diff Nut x1

Diff nut holder x1

Diff Spring x1

Diff Thrust bearing x1

Diff spool x1

Diff balls x8

Diff inner bearings x2 (small)

Diff outer bearings x2 (large)

Diff housing adjuster inner and outer with adjustment teeth x2 (total 4 pieces)

Clean all the parts with a wipe of a kitchen towel and or cotton bud. (I sometimes use a degreaser rinse with water and allow to dry but if you do, do it in a small plastic bowl so as not to lose parts down the sink!)

Carefully re assemble and grease the plates and balls with diff grease.

Once re-assembled you need to do the tight test!

Place two thin non sharp objects into the slots of the diff cups. With one hand try and hold the two objects so as to keep the diff cups still and with the other hand rotate the spool. If the spool slips its too loose so tighten the diff bolt with the 1.5mm hex approx 1/4 turn and try again. Step and repeat until its very hard if not imposable to rotate the spool by hand when holding the diff cups (using objects in the diff slots (see manual diagram)) If you do this right your diff should work perfectly, and no need to over tighten the hex bolt. You should be able to to rotate the diff cups on either side in opposite directions with your hand and it should feel fairly smooth (a little rumble from the bearings is normal).

If you need any help post on here or PM me

Thanks

VV

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If you need a good demonstration of how to build a car properly, go on youtube and search for "Red RC Pro Tips with Jilles Groskamp". There's I believe 5-6 parts to it. It demonstrate how a world class r/c driver preps it's dampers, diffs, blocks, chassis, suspension blocks, etc.

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