Hullstorage 0 Posted May 29, 2011 hi all i am new to kit making i have just bought a tamiya dark impact on the first page i have to glue a metal washer type part to a plastic part question is, do i glue the full peice to it or just a small blob sorry for probably sounding thick thanks simon Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dan12 1 Posted May 29, 2011 First off Welcome to TC! Could you explain in abit more detail what that part is, what are you trying to build up? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SpZero 10 Posted May 29, 2011 looking at my manual i can see it says "tamiya cement CA for rubber tyres", on the little bottle so either tyre glue or ca type glue, (your gunna need some for the tyres later so get some now if you dont already) Oh yeah welcome to the forum and enjoy the DI its a real fun car, with a brushless set up its stupid quick. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stu22 12 Posted May 30, 2011 hi alli am new to kit making i have just bought a tamiya dark impact on the first page i have to glue a metal washer type part to a plastic part question is, do i glue the full peice to it or just a small blob sorry for probably sounding thick thanks simon Can you post the page (the number at the bottom of the page of the assembly instructions) and panel (the number in the upper left corner of the box on the page you are working on) of what you are asking about? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
VinceVegaUK 0 Posted May 30, 2011 I Run a DB01 Durga and came across the same problem and Question. After some research and reading all the horror stories of peoples diffs coming loose and finding balls melting through the spools i wanted to get my build right first time. my Durga runs with a 5.5 EZ run so its drive train gets some punishment and still holds up today after some serious racing and bashing. I used Unibond Extreme Glue. Don't USE Super Glue! it will degrade with the ball diff oil and as its very brittle and eventually will come loose and then you will melt your diff. To add adhesion i gently sanded the plastic and put a few score marks with a model knife before gluing. Then apply a liberal but thin coat to the plastic on your diff plate assembly. Allow it to dry briefly (5/10 seconds) and carefully place the metal diff ring on it and rub your finger around the edge join. Make sure the main contact area of the diff plate is clean. Do this for all for plates and allow to dry over night. Once cured build diff as per manual and all should be good. You may need to tighten your diff once or twice after a few runs but after that it should stay hooked up for a long time to come Hope this helps Any Qs give me a shout Later VV Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Hullstorage 0 Posted June 1, 2011 First off Welcome to TC!Could you explain in abit more detail what that part is, what are you trying to build up? Hi, sorry it was for the "Rear Differential Assembley" part MK6 Regards, Simon Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
digitrc 0 Posted June 1, 2011 You don't need to use the rubber cement on the diff plate - in fact I would avoid using it as if you glue it badly it won't run true. A smear of the ball-diff grease should be enough to stop the plate spinning freely. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Hullstorage 0 Posted June 1, 2011 You don't need to use the rubber cement on the diff plate - in fact I would avoid using it as if you glue it badly it won't run true.A smear of the ball-diff grease should be enough to stop the plate spinning freely. but it clearlt states on instructions to affix using instant cement??? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
digitrc 0 Posted June 1, 2011 but it clearlt states on instructions to affix using instant cement??? I've been racing cars with ball diffs for 20+ years. I wouldn't normally suggest doing something other than what Tamiya's instructions state - but this is one of those occasions. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Hullstorage 0 Posted June 1, 2011 I've been racing cars with ball diffs for 20+ years.I wouldn't normally suggest doing something other than what Tamiya's instructions state - but this is one of those occasions. maybe i am confusing something?? I have attached picture of manual to show this Untitled.zip Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lt. CaSeY 0 Posted June 1, 2011 maybe i am confusing something??I have attached picture of manual to show this I just made one like that for my Scorcher, i am not glueing anything here. edit - Oops i see it's a different ball dif then wath i am using, so i think you have to glue those two pieces - Adrie - Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stu22 12 Posted June 1, 2011 Strictly speaking you don't have to glue the ring to the out drive. When properly assembled and adjusted, the pressure of the spring in the thing will hold everything in place. I think Tamiya's motivation to have you glue the things is to keep everything in place when putting it all together. It would probably give you some additional protection for the parts if the diff ever does come loose and starts melting itself. I'm sure there are plenty of people who have either glued or not glued and have not had any problems. Personally, I glue them on with a drop of CA glue but thinking about it I might stop though, I have not had to rebuild the diff in my DB01's yet but I can see it being a royal PITA trying to get the ring off of the out drive without messing it up. FYI, the instructions for my Associated toys say to use some diff grease to hold the rings in place during assembly of the ball diffs. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TA-Mark 195 Posted June 1, 2011 I glued it as per the instructions on my first DF03 build. Rebuilding the diff became an issue with them glued, so the two next DF03 kits I built I did not glue them in place. I used a small smear of ball diff grease (as already mentioned) to hold the thrust plate to the outdrive hub while it was being assembled. I've not had issues with actually running the vehicle with either method, only when it came to new balls and thrust plate time when things wore out with much use. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Hullstorage 0 Posted June 2, 2011 many thanks for your replys simon Share this post Link to post Share on other sites