Egress body on a Vanquish ?

[Percymon]

I know from the Egress manual that the Avante and Vanquish bodies were alternatives, although the fact the Egress uses a different front tower and body mount (CF tower, BP4 part as a body mount) to the Vanquish, must have meant other alternations were required to fit ?

Anyway i want to go the other way - i have the Vanquish 'tub' chassis, but have added the Egress front tower. I now realise the Vanquish body is unlikely to clear the 7-8mm higher front tower cross brace, so i'll either have to stump up £25 for a Vanquish front tower parts tree, or try a Egress body.

I'm not bothered about the Egress undertray, i just need to know if the shape of the Egress shell, from the cockpit out to the sides is sufficiently shaped to cover the tub chassi without issue ?

Many thanks

[TamiyaDan]

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[Percymon]

Thanks for the info - i gathered the steering might be an issue because the Egress shell tucks under the front tower cross bar and sits very flat to the chassis

By the sounds of it though the Vanquish shell will go over the higher Egress front tower with a bit of additional body trimming and raising the front body post a little

I've already raised the post by 4mm with a spacer, so i think i'll go for the Vanquish body and just trim back a touch. If i'm still having issues i think i'll buy some 4mm thick fibre lyte sheet and cut my own tower in line with the original Vanquish part.

[TamiyaDan]

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[Percymon]

Thanks for such a detailed description, made it easy to understand.

Yes i have the longer Egress tower, but having tested the suspension travel tonight the chassis just, but only just, touches at full travel. Having the shock upper mounting points 4-5mm lower in the tower would make things perfect. The Avante tower seems to be the obvious solution, but no doubt rare as hens teeth !. I have the original (broken) Vanquish part so i think i'll leave as is for now, but get some FibreLyte to make a tower more suited to the suspension travel and the body fitment, meaning the Vanquish shell will fit without further mods.

[94eg!]

How bout a Vanquish body on an Egress: http://s125.photobucket.com/albums/p53/94e...;cpZZ4QQtppZZ16

BTW: If your not using the Egress inboard lower shock mounts, you will want to run either the shock tower from the Hi-Cap mini set (shown in my pic), the Avante 2001, or the Vanquish. The Egress shock tower is too tall to use the outer Avante/Vanquish lower shock position.

[Percymon]

Well i fitted the original Vanquish wheels a few days ago and r-tested the suspension - with the slightly smaller diameter of the Vanquish wheels the suspension travel is fine and the car bottoms out before the end of the shock travel (much better than when i tested it previously with Hotshot wheels fitted).

I'm going to stick with a Vanquish body, if i have to fabricate a front tower myself then so be it.

[94eg!]

Well i fitted the original Vanquish wheels a few days ago and r-tested the suspension - with the slightly smaller diameter of the Vanquish wheels the suspension travel is fine and the car bottoms out before the end of the shock travel (much better than when i tested it previously with Hotshot wheels fitted).

I'm going to stick with a Vanquish body, if i have to fabricate a front tower myself then so be it.

I never had a problem with the shafts popping out when the wheels traveled upward. Usually the driveshafts pop out when the wheels droop down to far (like when you jump, or pick the car up). I had this happen when I fitted Kyosho gold shocks to my Vanquish. They were much longer at full extension than the original shocks. There are tricks to adjusting the fully extended shock length on the back of the vanquish. You can un-screw the lower shock mounts from the control arms and swap them left to right. This will flip the mounts upside down and make a longer shock seem a little shorter. I think it takes about 10mm back.

Ideally you would take the shocks apart and add plastic spacers to the shafts (under the piston) before re-installing them into the shock body. Some people use o-rings too, but the plastic spacers are usually provided on the shock parts trees. Either way works.