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Hi all!

I have seen some amazing projects in the showroooms and forum of this site which has inspired me to purchase my own CC01.

I have never previously really done anything other than basic paint jobs (although I have a Brat shell which I have added dents, rust and general shabbiness to!)and kit building so I have a few questions for the experts!

How do you all accurately position alternative bodyshells and mark out for drilling / fixing body mounts etc?

I intend to use my Brat Bodyshell on my CC01 as I think it looks great and is far and away my favourite body shell ever! I have seen several trucks where the body has been mounted in such a way that the mounts cannot be seen. How is this done?

Finally thanks to everyone who has posted their scalers on here and given me the inspiration to try it myself! I am truly in awe of your work!

Cheers,

Rich

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A lot of people will go the route to use velcro on the chassis and body or I've also seen magnets being used. Then there are those who use add ons to hide the screws or bolts that holds the body on to the chassis. Trail and error is the way to go. I'm also struggling to mount a shell to a TA-01 chassis but I will win eventually. Hope you find what you are looking for.

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Hmmm didn't think of that :(

! Obvious really!! Thankyou for the reply ;)

Rich

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3M make some mental 'velcro' - SJ3540 - it uses interlocking mushroom shaped mouldings, and is strong enough to lift an Avante up by the receiver!

The other great thing is there's only one 'side' to it, it locks to itself so there's no leftovers and you don't run out of one side before the other

Search eBay for 'heavy velcro', 'dual lock' or 'SJ3540'

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3M make some mental 'velcro' - SJ3540 - it uses interlocking mushroom shaped mouldings, and is strong enough to lift an Avante up by the receiver!

The other great thing is there's only one 'side' to it, it locks to itself so there's no leftovers and you don't run out of one side before the other

Search eBay for 'heavy velcro', 'dual lock' or 'SJ3540'

Genius advice, cheers Andy! Was about to order up some more velcro because I'd run out of "normal" stuff. Will have a search for this stuff.

I take it the adhesive that sticks the "Non velcro" side to the surface is good? Some velcros I've used before, the velcro sticks better than the glue on the other side does :(

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I take it the adhesive that sticks the "Non velcro" side to the surface is good? Some velcros I've used before, the velcro sticks better than the glue on the other side does :(

The only surface it doesn't stick well to is delrin - no idea why

I've seen a few of the scaler boys stick shells on with it without any problems at all, although you do need to leave a little room to 'rotate' the shell to break the hold of the mushrooms on each other as opposed pulling doesn't break it very effectively

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Here is my CC01 so far. Got to sort the holes in the bonnet now i have been enlightened about velcro! :lol:

post-28413-1310046910_thumb.jpg

post-28413-1310047027_thumb.jpg

post-28413-1310047048_thumb.jpg

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Does look a bit odd in the pictures but the next position back for the rear suspension mounts is 10mm back and that looked very strange! With the body mounted level on the chassis, the wheels are much more centred than they look in the picture. I am more than happy with it!

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some ppl have added a strip between the 2 ballstud points and made their own location in between

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I say leave the wheel base as it is. I have a CC-01 chassis with the rear link fitted on a plate between the 2 standard settings for my Wildcat project. I've tried a Brat lexan shell on it and it makes the wheel base too long by apx 10mm at least. If it realy botheres you I would concider trimming the front and rear arches a little to match the current wheelbase.

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I am leaving it as is. It is just the pics that make the wheel base look a bit out. If I compress the suspension to what would be 'standard' height, the wheels sit smack in the middle of the arches - just as with lifted 1:1 trucks (well certainly my discoveries and defenders from days gone).

Been having a little play in the garden after the rain! Very impressed but seeing why people remove the 'brick' from the front. Mine is definately coming off! Also going to shave the lugs off the back end of the chassis to allow the body to sit lower, and alter the rear shock mounts to give the chassis a little lift. May order the Junfac under body kit or have a stab at making my own.

Cheers,

Rich

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It's been some time. Wondering if you finished that lovely Subaru Brat? Photos of it would be awesome.

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DSC02091.jpg

DSC02090.jpg

DSC02078.jpg

DSC02084.jpg

The pictures above were taken quite a while ago and whilst I did get around to removing the 'brick', I never got to making discreet body mounts. Since then I have just used it really! It is probably my favorite runner. The body is currently mid way through being painted matt army green and I will perhaps look at the mounting options at the same time.

Need to reapply the rust effects but I want it to look like it was a shabby truck that has just been painted over quickly without prep or remedial work to tidy it up a bit (if that makes sense?) so I dont know how far to go with it.

Does anyone know where I can get a small amount of scale chequer plate from in UK? (I only just remembered I wanted some of this!!) I want to use some on the bonnet (weekend warrior style!!) to cover the mounting holes.

Anyway, I will try and get some photos taken later and post em up. Depends on time!

Thanks for looking,

Rich :)

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OK not the greatest pictures (photography is not one of my strong points) but here are a few taken in haste just now......

DSC02469.jpg

DSC02468.jpg

To be honest, I have not touched this for a few weeks due to work etc and now I am feeling fired up again. Especially as everywhere is nice and muddy!

Will post more pics after I next get chance to do a bit....

Cheers,

Rich

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They are surprisingly capable so long as you are not after axial scx10 ability! Having said that, there are some awe inspiring builds over on www.rccrawler.com

I love mine. It is great on the muddy woodland tracks I mostly run on. Will be looking at better rear links and locking the front diff soon too.

Rich

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