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Drift tyres, great for the shelf but what else (not a rhetorical question I really do have questions about drifting)?


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Posted

I have 3 touring type cars an old TA01 190E and FF01 Modeo, along with a Mk 5 Golf GTi , its TT01 type E replaced by a TT01D type E for its extra adjustment (the latter 2 have had their bodies switched so that the golf has the correct FWD and the 2 touring cars are better matched), they all have the correct kit wheels and soft tyres. These cars spend a lot of the time on the shelf so I have fitted them with drift tyres to avoid flatspotting.

I was thinking about trying a spot of drifting seeing as i now have the right tyres, now obviosly the drift chassis (fitted with a 12t brushless) will be fine for the job, as I guess the TA01 (23t brushed) will be, but i was wondering about the FF01 (15t brushed). Do you think this will work for drifting? I know it'll spin the front up no problem and the back swings out well enough with toe out on the rear wheels, just that was with slicks, not sure how it'll behave with drift tyres. Will it even move without spinning its wheels at standstill?

Cheers

Posted
...but i was wondering about the FF01 (15t brushed). Do you think this will work for drifting? I know it'll spin the front up no problem and the back swings out well enough with toe out on the rear wheels, just that was with slicks, not sure how it'll behave with drift tyres. Will it even move without spinning its wheels at standstill?

go try it <_<

it won't be very good... but how it responds could blow any preconceptions you might have had before

why have you got toe-out rears - that's pretty lethal

Posted

There's a Youtube video with somebody trying to drift a Mondeo FF chassis. It doesn't work too well, but the fellow was trying pretty hard to make it work. Really, it's more effort than it's worth. You need 4wd for R/C drifting.

Tire choice and good oil shocks are critical. HPI Drift tires and Tamiya Super Drift tires work quite well. Tamiya's "D" series of drift tires blow goats and should be avoided like the plague. Just my opinion, but it happens to be correct. :P

I've tried drifting with pogo sticks and quickly decided that it is impossible until you upgrade to oil shocks. I was just being cheap and trying to use a $24 bone stock TL-01 chassis with a silver can motor, Tamiya D tires and stock pogo sticks. Nearly gave it up after that bit of nastiness. I tried it again with the same chassis, but an RR Superstock motor, oil shocks and Tamiya Super Drift tires and got totally hooked. MUCH better experience. Then I tried a better chassis, and ... well, you get the point.

Gear matters.

Posted

The Tamiya 'D' tyres are too soft.

Locking the rear or both diffs helps but only do this if you are serious about drifting as it can be a pain to undo with geared diffs.

I found a one way front diff has improved my drifting, I'm able to get the car more sideways at lower speeds on tighter corners.

Posted

HPI T Drift tyres are great, good combimation of sliding control and straightline speed. my fave chassis to drift is my TB evolution 3 shaft drive, flourine shocks and all the other good bits. 8.5t brushless novak sensored motor, would be even better with a 6.5 i think. heaps of torque and speed is a good thing, it makes drifitng easier if you can uave instant bursts of crazy power.

i run a one way diff at the front, and a spool diff in the rear.

Posted

If you manage to get it moving, you won't be able to steer it. I guess you might get it to work if you put the drift tyres on the back and normal ones on the front, but it still won't be great.

4WD for RC drifting is really your only option.

Posted

The original kit instructions were for toe-out, there was an with extra set of instructions and spacers for toe-in settings along with the instructions for the supplied MSC (which I still have fitted).

When I first built it I used the toe-in settings but after the Mondeo shell got bashed up (loads of splits, since fixed with a glue gun) I put a 190E shell on the FF01 Chassis and reverted to the default settings. At the time I felt the loose setup more suited a RWD car (the 190E is now back on its original TA01 Chassis).

Since then I have rebuilt the FF01 with new parts, original tamiya FWD universals (slightly used) and heat sink (NIP), and fitted GPM alloy hubs/uprights at both ends with a little less toe-in at the rear. The Golf will be going on here.

I've got to finish the paint, but it looks good, either with the default wheels or the chrome plated (same wheels, just plated) ones for display. The drift chassis is going to have the Mondeo shell fitted.

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