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How do you get the ball links off the ball connectors without breaking the front uprights? Does anyone make some heavy-duty uprights for this? Maybe FRP or aluminum or carbon fiber? I broke one trying to get the ball connector off. I SHATTERED one by driving my S-10 into a brick wall. OOPS!

Thanks,

Neil

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The ballends should self-lever off pretty easily.. How come you're having so much trouble getting them off?

Steering knuckle is a "Hotshot II" part.

Edited by - WillyChang on 16 Oct 2002 04:06:21

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When I remove them I use pliers and twist them off. That is, I rotate the connector to an extreme angle until it binds and then keep rotating and it will pop off.

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I did it like you bholio, but the upright cracked where the ball is screwed in. Maybe it was just ready to go anyway.

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I just take the 2 screws out of the upright, and then carefully take them of by hand. At least it works on my FF01... If you want to do it easier you might want to grab your pliers, but I am a bit affraid of damaging them. icon_smile.gif

And looking at the thickness of the plastic I think they shouldn't break really easily, maybe there already was a little tear icon_smile_wink.gif Or you were trying aggresive force on it, then you can break nearly anything... icon_smile_shock.gif

Why did you want to loosen them anyway? Maybe a turnbuckle shaft is ann idea icon_smile_big.gif Then you won't have this problem if you want to adjust a little.

Sjoerd

I love Sand Scorchers, but I don't have one... Please help this poor collector...icon_smile.gifid=size1>

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Some of the old plastic could have gotten brittle with age. The red HotshotII bits especially, sometimes small cracks appears where the brass balls have tapped into it.

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Aren't the front uprights the same on HS I and II? Also the blue Boomerang ones break there easily, thats why (the red) was sold separately as a spare... But nothing compared to the 959 ones... tttlogo.gif

http://www.vintagetamiyarc.com/

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quote:Aren't the front uprights the same on HS I and II?

id=quote>id=quote>

No... and I learnt the hard way.icon_smile_sad.gif

They may *look* the same from outside, but the HS1 uses a different thread on its pivot balls. The HS2 and subsequent cars has a coarser thread I think... so don't mix the balls between the cars - or else you'll crossthread them.

HS2's red parts is identical to the blue sprue used in TA01.

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Hotshot 1 & supershot are the same , they have 3 steering holes running at 90 degrees to the axle .

hotshot 2 & ta01 , bigwig/boomerang( in blue) are the same , they have 2 holes running at about 60-70 degrees to the axle .

You cant use tao3 or the blue ffo1 ones unless you change your axle / bearings for the larger stepped ones .

all of the above use the world & tamiya standard M4 x 0.7 pitch threads for the main ball s

you should be able to get some quite easily and they are not that fragile really

http://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom.asp?id=3' rel="external nofollow">

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Cheers Alan

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Thanks guys. It turns out the S-10 is a TA-02. My uprights were cracked already, the other side was barely holding on. But I still might try to find some aluminum ones if they're out there.

Neil

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quote:

Isn't the thread tapped by the balls? As far as I understood from your post only the pivot balls are different, not the uprights themselfes?

id=quote>id=quote>

There seems to be some sign of thread molded into the plastic.

Yeah, tried screwing the HS1 balls into the later part... was using a powerdriver and halfway through started wondering why it was so hard going in. Touched the ball and -OWWUICH!- it was hot enough to leave a welt. The plastic later also cracked.

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**CORRECTION**

HS2 knuckle is not the same as TA03/XC/FF knuckle.

-- HS1/HS2 knuckle carries 2x 1150 bearings.

-- TA03 part carries 1x 1510 and 1x 860 bearings.

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