Razer 0 Posted October 10, 2002 How do you get the ball links off the ball connectors without breaking the front uprights? Does anyone make some heavy-duty uprights for this? Maybe FRP or aluminum or carbon fiber? I broke one trying to get the ball connector off. I SHATTERED one by driving my S-10 into a brick wall. OOPS! Thanks, Neil Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WillyChang 1812 Posted October 10, 2002 The ballends should self-lever off pretty easily.. How come you're having so much trouble getting them off? Steering knuckle is a "Hotshot II" part. Edited by - WillyChang on 16 Oct 2002 04:06:21 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bholio 0 Posted October 10, 2002 When I remove them I use pliers and twist them off. That is, I rotate the connector to an extreme angle until it binds and then keep rotating and it will pop off. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Razer 0 Posted October 10, 2002 I did it like you bholio, but the upright cracked where the ball is screwed in. Maybe it was just ready to go anyway. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SJoerD 2 Posted October 14, 2002 I just take the 2 screws out of the upright, and then carefully take them of by hand. At least it works on my FF01... If you want to do it easier you might want to grab your pliers, but I am a bit affraid of damaging them. And looking at the thickness of the plastic I think they shouldn't break really easily, maybe there already was a little tear Or you were trying aggresive force on it, then you can break nearly anything... Why did you want to loosen them anyway? Maybe a turnbuckle shaft is ann idea Then you won't have this problem if you want to adjust a little. Sjoerd I love Sand Scorchers, but I don't have one... Please help this poor collector...id=size1> Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WillyChang 1812 Posted October 15, 2002 Some of the old plastic could have gotten brittle with age. The red HotshotII bits especially, sometimes small cracks appears where the brass balls have tapped into it. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DJTheo 2 Posted October 15, 2002 Aren't the front uprights the same on HS I and II? Also the blue Boomerang ones break there easily, thats why (the red) was sold separately as a spare... But nothing compared to the 959 ones... http://www.vintagetamiyarc.com/ Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WillyChang 1812 Posted October 15, 2002 quote:Aren't the front uprights the same on HS I and II? id=quote>id=quote> No... and I learnt the hard way. They may *look* the same from outside, but the HS1 uses a different thread on its pivot balls. The HS2 and subsequent cars has a coarser thread I think... so don't mix the balls between the cars - or else you'll crossthread them. HS2's red parts is identical to the blue sprue used in TA01. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DJTheo 2 Posted October 15, 2002 Isn't the thread tapped by the balls? As far as I understood from your post only the pivot balls are different, not the uprights themselfes? http://www.vintagetamiyarc.com/ Edited by - DJTheo on 15 Oct 2002 11:41:42 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
synchrocnc 0 Posted October 15, 2002 Hotshot 1 & supershot are the same , they have 3 steering holes running at 90 degrees to the axle . hotshot 2 & ta01 , bigwig/boomerang( in blue) are the same , they have 2 holes running at about 60-70 degrees to the axle . You cant use tao3 or the blue ffo1 ones unless you change your axle / bearings for the larger stepped ones . all of the above use the world & tamiya standard M4 x 0.7 pitch threads for the main ball s you should be able to get some quite easily and they are not that fragile really http://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom.asp?id=3' rel="external nofollow"> Cheers Alan Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Razer 0 Posted October 15, 2002 Thanks guys. It turns out the S-10 is a TA-02. My uprights were cracked already, the other side was barely holding on. But I still might try to find some aluminum ones if they're out there. Neil Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WillyChang 1812 Posted October 16, 2002 quote: Isn't the thread tapped by the balls? As far as I understood from your post only the pivot balls are different, not the uprights themselfes? id=quote>id=quote> There seems to be some sign of thread molded into the plastic. Yeah, tried screwing the HS1 balls into the later part... was using a powerdriver and halfway through started wondering why it was so hard going in. Touched the ball and -OWWUICH!- it was hot enough to leave a welt. The plastic later also cracked. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WillyChang 1812 Posted October 16, 2002 **CORRECTION** HS2 knuckle is not the same as TA03/XC/FF knuckle. -- HS1/HS2 knuckle carries 2x 1150 bearings. -- TA03 part carries 1x 1510 and 1x 860 bearings. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites