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LoBiSteR

Traction

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Hi people.

I have a TB02 chassis with stab kit and Yeah Racing 55mm coil over shocks. I have just equipped this with an EZrun 5.5t motor and 6OA esc. The problem is, its too powerful. I cant get the power down. Are there any tips for imporving traction. I'm not going to downsize in motor as I love the speed, its just that when I punch in the power at speed, all 4 wheels light up and it becomes an uncontrollable rocket ship that just wants to go go go!

Any tips for traction?

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Easiest one is contained in the question! Punch. With the EZRuns, you can adjust the punch on a 1 to 9 scale where 9 is most and 1 is least to make launches a little more controllable. For example, I have a 8.5t brushless in my Monster Beetle, and I've set the punch at 7 so that the front wheels stay on the ground when you hit the loud pedal from a standing start.

Try a few different settings and you'll find that nice balance between madness and controllability.

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Tyres would make the biggest different. Try some racing slicks.

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tires and punch setting will help, but the #1 thing you need to do is adjust your driving style.

if it's got too much power then you just can't "punch it at speed" and expect it to stick.

it's all about "finger" control. <_<

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I guess it's also possible that your diffs are too loose, and you're just spinning inside low traction tires...

I have a TB02 with Castle 4600kv brushless, and it sure tears aroun, and has plenty of grip. But with enough throttle and steering I can drift with regular rubber tires!

Cheers,

Skottoman

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Thanks for the input. I was under the impression that the 'punch' setting just related to a standing start. I s that right? Also, I am running on road so would slicks be advisable? With regards diff tension, at what point should you decide to stop turning the locking screw?

Thanks again for all your advice.

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what tyres are you running now?

if you want to go decently quick with half a hope of control, yes you need some racing rubber - most are slicks & belted construction

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Sticky tires, maybe some racing goop (sorry, don't know the actual name or brand, but you know what I mean - the stuff you brush on the tires to soften them up and give you more traction). Different shock oil and / or springs might help too. Perhaps add weights to the chassis in key areas to get better control? Loosen the diffs just a teensy bit?

Frankly though, the best solution to get more traction is simply training your trigger finger to be less joyful. ;)

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Loosen the diffs just a teensy bit?

I wouldn't do this. The TB02 ball diffs are quite fragile and aren't very adjustable, they don't work as slipper clutches. There's a fine line between a diff that's too loose and loses drive, and a diff that's too tight with a broken diff screw in a TB02.

New rubber is a good idea. The TB02 kit tires aren't great.

Looking at the gear ratio and gearing up is another option, going to a larger pinion/smaller spur will gear up and knock a bit of the acceleration off, and give you more top speed, but may overheat the motor if you go too far - what pinion-spur are you using?

You could lay the shocks down by moving the top mount in one hole, or trying a softer spring. 40wt oil seems to work best in a TB02. Move the rears in one hole, and if that upsets the cornering do the same at the front. You may need to tweak the spring pretensioners to keep the ride height.

Another option is to try the SSG stiffener and see if that helps, it may reduce the twist in the chassis from all the torque in the drivetrain.

And I have to say - Yeah racing shocks are a bit rubbish. The Tamiya TRF shocks are expensive, but they are a lot better and well worth the premium.

- James

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Ok thats a lot of information to digest. I have the carbon fibre chasis stiffener in place (very hard to come by nowdays). I am using HPI on road tyres with foam inserts.

The handling isn't really the issue, its the brute force of the accelleration. I am using a 25T pinion gear and a 55T spur.This gives me a ratio of 5.72 (which is the top one I think).

I have learned to be a little less extreme on the throttle stick which really does help. I may just tune it down a bit on the TX. I think I am starting to get used it though. It was just the major jump from the stock 540 to a 5.5T motor caught me by suprise I guess.

Are there any alternative diff options available that give more resilience to damage?

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You may also be able to change the settings of your controller. I've just got a new car and the controller allows many settings, including different accelleration curves to suit different grip levels/surfaces/weather or types of driving.

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You could make a rudimentary spool? Add tape or something to the diff plates and reassemble, so the balls don't slip or turn, meaning you have a locked axle?

http://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/topic/107076-h...your-ball-diff/

That'll help the car pull straight under power if you lock the front diff. Also add some rear toe-in if you can. But like others have said, 99% of the problem will be the tyres, go for some racing tyres from Sorex, RP, Sweep etc, the lower the number the softer the tyre (look for something in the 24-32 range, Sorex 28's would be perfect).

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TB03 spool will fit into EvoIII/TB02 gearbox with a little surgery to make it narrower.

You may want to put the spool in front. Rear spool can get taily.

Another option is to try the SSG stiffener and see if that helps, it may reduce the twist in the chassis from all the torque in the drivetrain.

doubt it... its just a tiny sliver of CF with 4 holes countersunked into it...

had it on mine, doubt it did anything more than fill up that cavity under the tub

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Thanks again for all the input.

I am managing to tame the beast now. Adjusted the throttle curve on my TX and it seems more progressive when I punch in the power. Man this thing flies. Its a TB-02 chassis that I have dressed up to look like a Lancia Integrali. I rekon (although I havent had the pace to test this) it would probably top out in excess of 50mph (guesstimate) which I think is pretty fast for a little RC car. Am currently building a 360 Modena for my borther-in-law which I think I will leave as stock as he doesnt really know much about these things (bit like me really).

I think he wants it as a 'shelf queen', so are there any tips for securing a bodyshell without the need for post holes?

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which 360? from a kit?

trouble is all the kit (TA04, TT01, TG10) shells come prepunched already afaik

but the bodyparts set usually don't

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which 360? from a kit?

trouble is all the kit (TA04, TT01, TG10) shells come prepunched already afaik

but the bodyparts set usually don't

Oh yeah, silly me. I ordered one for the TT-01 which comes pre punched as you said. Never mind, its an RC car, he'll get over it, lol

Fairly hard to come by these days though I must admit and wing mirrors aren't supplied. I will think of something regarding the latter.

Thanks m8

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yeah 360 is from before T regularly provided side mirrors & lightbuckets :lol:

more annoyingly is there's 2 long slots in the engine cover to mount the wing struts :D:(

they give you 2 "pasties" to cover up the holes if u lose the wing, but only works if you paint it red

the 430 is just as nice & better equipped too. You can buy a TT01 kit with the shell pre-finished (in red) :o

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yeah 360 is from before T regularly provided side mirrors & lightbuckets <_<

more annoyingly is there's 2 long slots in the engine cover to mount the wing struts :lol::(

they give you 2 "pasties" to cover up the holes if u lose the wing, but only works if you paint it red

the 430 is just as nice & better equipped too. You can buy a TT01 kit with the shell pre-finished (in red) :o

Yeah I intend to use a couple of carefully cut pieces of polycarb to blank out these wing slots. Anyone know what Tamiya paint code for Ferrari Red is?

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there's only 2 main reds available in PS anyway... we did our F40s in PS2 which has been around since dot

later ferraris they ask for PS34 Bright Red which matches with the wing hole plasters

only recently they brought out Tamiya PS F60 Bright Mica Red Ferrari for the F1

Bright Red needs backing with PS1 White

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doubt it... its just a tiny sliver of CF with 4 holes countersunked into it...

had it on mine, doubt it did anything more than fill up that cavity under the tub

Yeah if it does have an effect, it's pretty minimal. With a standard to mild tuned motor, or on lower grip surfaces you definitely wouldn't notice. I have it on my TB-02. It's supposed to help with hard acceleration, and makes suspension tuning more accurate on higher grip surfaces. The TB-02 does look robust, but it does have a lot of chassis flex. The SSG unfortunately is too puny and doesn't reinforce the weakest points.

It's bling for the hop-up obsessed. <_<

there's only 2 main reds available in PS anyway... we did our F40s in PS2 which has been around since dot

later ferraris they ask for PS34 Bright Red which matches with the wing hole plasters

only recently they brought out Tamiya PS F60 Bright Mica Red Ferrari for the F1

Bright Red needs backing with PS1 White

Both solid reds are quite translucent, and need quite a few coats and backing in white. PS2 is similar to the darker Ferrari Rossa Corsa red, PS34 is similar to the brighter Rosso Scuderia.

- James

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