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cobalt

So is the re-re FAV diff still problematic?

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Just wondering if the FAV this time around(build per manual) still has the diff slipping problem?

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Just wondering if the FAV this time around(build per manual) still has the diff slipping problem?

Not yet !! .

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I had to shim mine. It slipped when I turned the wheels over by hand.

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what do you guy's mean diff slipping problem?

I put mine together and don't seam to have any problems I thought they upgraded the gear box halfs to fix the old problems?

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So did I, but it did the same thing my old one did - Allowed the diff center to separate and skip teeth. Maybe my bearings are a touch narrower or something, but I don't see any indication of that anywhere else on the chassis.

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So did I, but it did the same thing my old one did - Allowed the diff center to separate and skip teeth. Maybe my bearings are a touch narrower or something, but I don't see any indication of that anywhere else on the chassis.

That's strange because after i put my gearbox together i turned the out drives by hand and i could feel the diffs bevel gears hitting together real hard it felt to tight to me... what bearings did you buy?

i think mine are bocca bearings.

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I think they were the bonus freebies from the kit. I used the bearings supplied with the RC Channel wheels on the front axle.

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I think they were the bonus freebies from the kit. I used the bearings supplied with the RC Channel wheels on the front axle.

Strange how did you test the diff to see if it slipped?

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I was wondering about this too. My original FAV would skip gear teeth. It was first noticable on high traction (asphalt) surfaces. Sudden application of the throttle or reversing the throttle (the old original MSC did not have a braking feature) would result in a popping noise from the gearbox as the bevels skipped over the spider gears.

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Strange how did you test the diff to see if it slipped?

Turning the wheels over by hand to check the drive line after I installed the motor. I was getting a clack and a jolt out of the gearbox. I pulled out one of the drive cups out and I could see a gap between the back of the bearing and the side gear. It took about 5 Traxxas shims. to get it feeling good.

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Turning the wheels over by hand to check the drive line after I installed the motor. I was getting a clack and a jolt out of the gearbox. I pulled out one of the drive cups out and I could see a gap between the back of the bearing and the side gear. It took about 5 Traxxas shims. to get it feeling good.

B.M.T

could you please tell me the shims thickens? its 5 shims per side?

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Turning the wheels over by hand to check the drive line after I installed the motor. I was getting a clack and a jolt out of the gearbox. I pulled out one of the drive cups out and I could see a gap between the back of the bearing and the side gear. It took about 5 Traxxas shims. to get it feeling good.

what side had the gap drivers side or passengers side?

thanks

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.5mm I think? Also it was 3 on one side, two on the other. But, depending on your bearings it will probably be different. I know I had to do this because all on one side had the spur scraping against the casting marks on the back of the side gear.

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Well after looking at my FAV instructions it sounds like you may have left out the washer i marked in red that sounds just about the thickness you added with those traxxas washers.

post-11941-1318513658_thumb.jpg

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Well after looking at my FAV instructions it sounds like you may have left out the washer i marked in red that sounds just about the thickness you added with those traxxas washers.

But the washer seems to be there in the original instructions!? Strange as to why the old FAV/WO had "slippage problems"!

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But the washer seems to be there in the original instructions!? Strange as to why the old FAV/WO had "slippage problems"!

I think the new gear case halfs have a thicker lining also where the bearings press in and also extra inside webbing supports in the casing so it don't flex apart..

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earlier gearcases had less ribbing and would spreadout like the Frog's

sometimes they'd break the screwtabs at the edge or strip the threads

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I don't know i just poped a freshly charged battery on mine and put it on the ground and held both wheels and gave it gas and it lifts the front way up in the air without no diff pop slipping at all ..to make sure i moved the car farward some and did the test again and did it a few times more in the same manner and nothing at all solid as can be?

If it don't pop with that much of a load on it it won't pop and slip when driving.

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