usel;escrapytwit

SRB 1979 different to later 1980s SRB wow info please

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Hi there

New to this but got lucky and jumped in all feet together i have in my fleet a number of srbs from original 1979 to 80s and a re re.

Does any one know the differences between the very early and the later modles. I have found one tonight that i dont know how many peoplr know about but its a pain.

Every one please add the ones you know to the list

1 rear cage to gear case bosses

Front uprights with screws not cast pips

Rear legs with hollow for second bearing (myth)

Chassis plate

servo saver

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mk1 and mk2 srb's are a well known thing on these forums :P

have a search!

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Thinner front arms

Black bumper

There are lots of more small differences than the cage-to-gearbox bosses between the two gearboxes. Have a look here: http://www.studio68.no/rc/default.asp?id=10430

I don't know what's different on the servo saver and chassis plate, though....... Please explain.

The chassis plate is very slightly shorter in the front section. infront of the bolts that hold the uprights on this makes the space infront of the servo saver smaller. the bolt holes are very very close to the edge of the plate. emagine shaving the front edge off of the green chassis plate.

I have measured the servo saver hole and its slightly forward of the later ones. this is why they need a different servo saver . Also the srvo saver is very slightly different in that the retaining loop that holds the spring captive is flush with edge of the servo saver where as the early one is slightly recessed giving a slightly better clearence to clear the front tubes. if you look closly the front tubes slope back and the later servo saver rubbs on these tubes. I tried a later chassis and servo saver and all is well on the early uprights so its not them. The servo saver on its own on a new chassis is also good but there is no way a later servo saver and early chassis plate works the servo savor binds on the front tubesenough to not let the stearing go straight ahead at all.

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The chassis plate is very slightly shorter in the front section. infront of the bolts that hold the uprights on this makes the space infront of the servo saver smaller. the bolt holes are very very close to the edge of the plate. emagine shaving the front edge off of the green chassis plate.

I have measured the servo saver hole and its slightly forward of the later ones. this is why they need a different servo saver . Also the srvo saver is very slightly different in that the retaining loop that holds the spring captive is flush with edge of the servo saver where as the early one is slightly recessed giving a slightly better clearence to clear the front tubes. if you look closly the front tubes slope back and the later servo saver rubbs on these tubes. I tried a later chassis and servo saver and all is well on the early uprights so its not them. The servo saver on its own on a new chassis is also good but there is no way a later servo saver and early chassis plate works the servo savor binds on the front tubesenough to not let the stearing go straight ahead at all.

Wow.... just when I thought I knew "all" there is to know about the SRB, I suddenly learn something new! I Guess that's what makes this hobby so fascinating!

I just compared the servo saver of my Sand Scorcher with the servo saver of my Rough Rider and a few other I have lying around, and you're absolutely right. The servo saver of my Sand Scorcher (which is a early model with mk1 front arms, rear arms, front uprights, gearbox and black bumper) have a retaining loop that is flush with the edge, while all the others are slightly recessed. So just to clear things up.... are the recessed retaining loop servo saver the early or the late?

As for the chassis plate, I could not find any significant differences on the 10+ chassises I have got, they all have a distance of 17 mm (or maybe 17.1 mm) from the front edge to the center of the servo saver hole. Could you please measure the distances on your mk1 and mk2 chassises. Or even better, scan them side by side on a scanner. This is "important" to document.....

Thanks

Tom

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Is there anyone else that can confirm there's different mk1 and mk2 chassis' ?

Pics/scans will be welcome for reference.

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I also found an unexpected difference. While working on my original SRB project, I replaced a l/h upper arm because the grub screw thread was a bit strippy and then noticed that I had half the suspension travel on that side. Having a look, the bump stop claw on the replacement arm is a totally different profile. I think the arm came from a F150, and the rest of the beam is Rough Rider.

*****Edit*****

I just read those links, and I have an answer about black bumpers... I have somewhere, a black bumper that has broken in half across the forward mounting screws. It is black all the way through.

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I also found an unexpected difference. While working on my original SRB project, I replaced a l/h upper arm because the grub screw thread was a bit strippy and then noticed that I had half the suspension travel on that side. Having a look, the bump stop claw on the replacement arm is a totally different profile. I think the arm came from a F150, and the rest of the beam is Rough Rider.

Hmm... and it was not machined by anyone to make more travel or something?

It would be great with pics of these findings...

Tom

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I have the arbs and all of them suffer with the fouling of the servo saver on the front tubes. At first I thought it was the rere servo saver but my originals are similar. Got round it on #3 with direct steer. Chassis plate for #4 looks to be same as other three.

I've also got one where the suspension travel is less on one side. Will have to look more closely at the stops.

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Hmm... and it was not machined by anyone to make more travel or something?

It would be great with pics of these findings...

Tom

Give me an hour or so and coming right up.... For the suspension. I believe I discarded the bumper a long time back, but I might have the chassis end. It will be easy to find if I do.

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Wow, and I thought the running changes to the 1st generation Mazda Miata were tough to figure out and keep track of... I had no idea Tamiya made so many variations of this chassis. It really shows that they were still finding their way early on, and wanted to get it right.

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My suspicions are that they added material to the up stops on then F150 because of the taller than usual front tyres and the lower than other SRB front guards.

Sorry for the blurry photos, had a bit of a balancing act going on for some shots. I cleaned them up as best I could.

The first photo is to demonstrate how it's not the shocks. Both front corners droop equally, and both lower arms are form the that beam.

PA205188.jpg

However, when compressed, it's a different tune. The left top is from the F150 (right of screen)

PA205200.jpgPA205198.jpg

How much is that?... This much.

PA205196.jpgPA205194.jpg

There is not a lot of extra beef under the bump stop, but enough.

PA205189.jpgPA205190.jpg

PA205202.jpgPA205201.jpg

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Its nice there are so many differences and in this world of re-re it provides the casual collector with a whole new aim and that is to build one of each. As far as I am aware there are no official releases but looking at the early boxed models (not re-re) there where three.

1) MK I - as described in most of the posts above black bumper, thin front arms, dual bearing rears, different gear covers, tinted radio box etc.... yadda yadda use search for full list

2) MK II - Grey bumper, thicker arms, different gear case moulds etc...

Many kits got shipped with various combinations of the above so the idea of a clear cut off between MKI and MKII is not true. For the best opportunity of getting MKI parts you want to buy Original Rough Riders as these where released first. If you can't get that sort of provenance then just bid on the oldest dirtiest SRBs on ebay.

3) MK III now this does not really exists however at the very end of production some kits got shipped with Super Champ gear covers these are identified by having a small hole right in the middle opposite the pinion. I expect this was just down to clearing up old stock and not wanting to manufacture any more new old stock

Then of course you now have the Re-Re's.

I have salvaged / collected a MKI a couple of MKIIs plus a I have a re-re but its still boxed - waiting for a rainy day or some such event to break it out and build it.

For me this added a whole new angle to collecting and finding these great cars.

Paul

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I don't know if this has been mentioned elsewhere. I don't have measurements available, but I tried fitting re-re rear arms to a vintage gearbox and they wouldn't fit. This would seem to point to differences in the gearbox casings and rear arm lengths.

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1) MK I - as described in most of the posts above black bumper, thin front arms, dual bearing rears, different gear covers, tinted radio box etc.... yadda yadda use search for full list

2) MK II - Grey bumper, thicker arms, different gear case moulds etc...

Interesting, just looked at the one and only photos of my MKI and noticed that it has a grey bumper.

post-35301-1319109005_thumb.jpg

Although I probably had, had a few replacment parts on the old girl! do remember it had the screw in front spring lugs tho.. :)

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I don't know if this has been mentioned elsewhere. I don't have measurements available, but I tried fitting re-re rear arms to a vintage gearbox and they wouldn't fit. This would seem to point to differences in the gearbox casings and rear arm lengths.

See another peice of the puzzle! I have just won a MKI sandscorcher on the bay, cant waight till it gets here so I can start comparing some of the bits and peices that I have been collecting. :)

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I don't know if this has been mentioned elsewhere. I don't have measurements available, but I tried fitting re-re rear arms to a vintage gearbox and they wouldn't fit. This would seem to point to differences in the gearbox casings and rear arm lengths.

I found this out when I fitted a RC Channel IRS kit to a Super Champ gearbox on the buggy above.

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I found this out when I fitted a RC Channel IRS kit to a Super Champ gearbox on the buggy above.

Well you could've told me! :)

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Ah, it was only a little grinding of the lugs with the old Dremmel. Nothing too serious!. Had I thought and ground the front ones instead of the rear I could of corrected the SS wheelbase discrepancy.

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Interesting, just looked at the one and only photos of my MKI and noticed that it has a grey bumper.

buggs_033.jpg

Although I probably had, had a few replacment parts on the old girl! do remember it had the screw in front spring lugs tho.. :)

Yeah,

Many kits got shipped with various combinations of the above..

There where far more RoughRoder MKIs than SandScorchers.

Good photo though :mellow:

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Wow.... just when I thought I knew "all" there is to know about the SRB, I suddenly learn something new! I Guess that's what makes this hobby so fascinating!

I just compared the servo saver of my Sand Scorcher with the servo saver of my Rough Rider and a few other I have lying around, and you're absolutely right. The servo saver of my Sand Scorcher (which is a early model with mk1 front arms, rear arms, front uprights, gearbox and black bumper) have a retaining loop that is flush with the edge, while all the others are slightly recessed. So just to clear things up.... are the recessed retaining loop servo saver the early or the late?

As for the chassis plate, I could not find any significant differences on the 10+ chassises I have got, they all have a distance of 17 mm (or maybe 17.1 mm) from the front edge to the center of the servo saver hole. Could you please measure the distances on your mk1 and mk2 chassises. Or even better, scan them side by side on a scanner. This is "important" to document.....

Thanks

Tom

Sorry been working away will do it and post it up soon

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