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Posted

Or, a dead simple, stronger and easier fix to the Tamiya spring is to buy a pack of safety pins of about the right size, trim off each end, then use pliers to open them up a bit. Jobs a good 'un!

Posted
I did away with these and did the 3rd shock mod, much better.

don't see how you can do this on a hornet the rear is to close to the chassis wall if you put even a mini 1/18 scale shock in there the front of the gear box can't move farward when you compress the rear springs it would stop the rear from going farward on the pivot because it would be stopped by the shock you put in there..... not like a lunch box there is more room.

Posted
Or, a dead simple, stronger and easier fix to the Tamiya spring is to buy a pack of safety pins of about the right size, trim off each end, then use pliers to open them up a bit. Jobs a good 'un!

Good idea!!

I just went to the hardware and picked up a pack of those things they sell for hanging stuff in plaster you know the things with the screw that goes through a metal section that gets folded in half and you push it through the hole in the wall you drilled then it springs back open so you can hang alot of weight from it...that's what i got springs from they had a little bigger hole in the spring center but they worked like a charm for a 2 pack only $1.19!!

Posted
Hi guy's anyone have a good source to buy the hornet little springs that they use in the chassis for the rear suspension?

THANKS

I found two hairsprings in my box of old bits and pieces; I have no idea what they came from. I shortened one end and they fit perfectly as the circular wound bit was pretty much spot on. The wire is probably twice as thick as the original, and the increase in resistance when compressing the pivot by hand is noticeable. I also put two small rubber bungs into the top of the slot, to stop the "clunking" you get when hitting the throttle from rest. With the extra resistance of the springs, you get a "whump" instead and the car is a bit quieter over rough ground. I don't think it does much for the handling though; that would require addressing more fundamental issues!

The main problem with that design is that the un-sealed oval slots quickly fill up with dirt, and the gearbox pivots get stuck by a piece of grit. It's fine if you hose it out after every run, but a bit of a pain really.

Posted
don't see how you can do this on a hornet the rear is to close to the chassis wall if you put even a mini 1/18 scale shock in there the front of the gear box can't move farward when you compress the rear springs it would stop the rear from going farward on the pivot because it would be stopped by the shock you put in there..... not like a lunch box there is more room.

Actually you can fit a 3rd shock back there and chances are you already have the bits to do it mate. Check out my build thread below.

http://www.tamiyaclub.com/forum/index.php?...c=62351&hl=

Posted

That and the Brat tyres all round helped to tame mine a lot. But I should point out it was a Grasshopper chassis that's been upgraded to Hornet specs apart from the motor, that's still a standard 380. I think that could be the problem with these chassis's, putting a faster motor in there overwhelms the basic suspension too much.

Posted
That and the Brat tyres all round helped to tame mine a lot. But I should point out it was a Grasshopper chassis that's been upgraded to Hornet specs apart from the motor, that's still a standard 380. I think that could be the problem with these chassis's, putting a faster motor in there overwhelms the basic suspension too much.

until you get to the point where its sort of like flying a small missile. I run brat tyres on just the front and its probably the best mod out there for handling, mine just CBA to steer unless its got wider tyres on. I really like your paint job on your g.hopper too.

Posted
That and the Brat tyres all round helped to tame mine a lot. But I should point out it was a Grasshopper chassis that's been upgraded to Hornet specs apart from the motor, that's still a standard 380. I think that could be the problem with these chassis's, putting a faster motor in there overwhelms the basic suspension too much.

On the hornet the front springs are way to stiff ... it's because they use the extra plastic spacer that allows the use of 2 O rings in it to dampen the shocks it's a good idea but now the extra space it takes up makes the front springs to stiff.

My bother in law got a grasshopper it used the same front springs but because it did not have the hornets plastic O ring holder in with it his fron suspension worked much better it's softer and you can see it working when he drove his whare as my hornet looks like the front never moved!!!

I moded my hornet And will show pic's when i go take some.

I cut the plastic holder that hold the O rings in half so only one O ring will fit and then i ground around the bottom shock holder now the front is softer and works much better this way.

Posted

here is the moded front suspension .

as stated in last post above.

cut top spacer so it only holds one O ring and ground off the bottom shock holder thinner so now the spring is not compressed as much so you get a softer suspension that works better.

post-11941-1319397234_thumb.jpg

Posted
here is the moded front suspension .

as stated in last post above.

cut top spacer so it only holds one O ring and ground off the bottom shock holder thinner so now the spring is not compressed as much so you get a softer suspension that works better.

You can cut down the inside rubber to half that thickness if you want. Or just get rid of it and use a rubber washer.

Posted

That looks like a great mod shenloco. The Hornet upgrade kit I fitted to my GH included optional cups for the front suspension so you can choose to have it with 1 or 2 o-rings in there. I going to try your grounding down the lower mounts mod when I get the chance.

Posted
That looks like a great mod shenloco. The Hornet upgrade kit I fitted to my GH included optional cups for the front suspension so you can choose to have it with 1 or 2 o-rings in there. I going to try your grounding down the lower mounts mod when I get the chance.

Yea it should work much better... I also cut the top O ring holder so it only fits one O ring ... I never used two in it anyway so this worked out great!

Posted
You can cut down the inside rubber to half that thickness if you want. Or just get rid of it and use a rubber washer.

That don't take away nearly as much as cutting the plastic O ring holder in half to only hold one O ring...

This works much better

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