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turbobungle

Brat Project - it's started!

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This my new old Brat! I bought it a few weeks ago, it came with uprated motor, ball bearings and alloy oil rear shocks,

Body is tatty and I need to buy a new one, also, I hated the fact that the rear track was narrower than the front so I ordered some 12mm hex adaptors for the rear and then some HPI SuperStar wheels and truck radial tyres which have now been fitted.

I have run into a problem though, when I fitted the new front wheels, with the wheel nut tightened to the end of the thread, there was still lots of sideways 'play' so I put a washer that I found in the garage between wheel and bearing and re-fitted the wheel, this time the wheel wouldn't spin!!

Any advice welcome!!! Thanks

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yeah .dont do the lock nut up so tight it binds the wheel or find thinner washers .. make some out of a plastic drink bottle ! .. :rolleyes: or traxxas make fibre washers to take up the space on some of the early race trucks ..look on fleabay or online .. ;)

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Thanks, I'll try making some plastic bottle washers later!! I've also noticed that the acceleration is reduced due to the higher gearing of the larger diameter wheels, can I just change the pinion on the motor or will other gears in the gearbox need changing as well? Also, would I need more or less teeth on the pinion? Thanks, and here's some more pics!

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The less teeth the pinion has the quicker acceleration but less top speed. The more teeth the pinion has the less acceleration but faster top speed.

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read the manual... there's couple of ring (spur) gears to go with each size of pinion

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It looks like you have the reissue Brat but looks to have had the electronic speed controller swapped for an early mechanical one. Your speed controller won't last long with the motor in (will overheat)

And has already been mentioned these came with 3 spur gears to run a 16 18 and 19 tooth pinion. The gearbox should have a diff as per early Frog.

Original Brats had a fixed gear and a 10 tooth pinion on a 380 motor or 18 tooth if 540 fitted.

So try and swap to a 16 (I have spare gears if required) - but i would get an electronic speed controller and make sure it has ball racers throughout

Good luck and I will keep an eye on this as i'm bit mad on owt Brat related ;-)

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You can get an adjustable motor mount to allow you to swap pinions around, made from GRP - I think mine might be a CRP item.

I really must make a few :D

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I've got similar sized wheels on my frog/brat/mud blaster hybrid mine are 105mm dia with tyres. To get the gearing back to original I use a 11 tooth pinion. Mine has a blackfoot gearbox. I use an old GRP adjustable engine mount (very rare and can't remember the make), but there is a Canadian compnay that make alloy ones.

BTW with this gearing it does great wheelies (Just like my MB) :(

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I agree a ESC and ball bearings are a must- a HPI ESC can be had for $30+ brand new or a Tamiya one for $40 or so new on ebay

looks good and bet it handles good with the new wheels! I want one of these chassis' with a Blackfoot body..

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thanks for the tips guys, it is already ballraced and has a 27T Stockstar motor. The MSC is playing up already, so I'll get an ESC ASAP, I've seen some on Ebay but I'm not sure if they are suitable, they are either a Tamiya TEU-104BK ESC or a TAMIYA TEU-101BK ESC, both say they are good down to a 23T motor so I assume mine will be OK? Anyone know which would be best? Would it be a case of just buying it and plugging it in or would it require more work than that? (I don't think ESC's had been invented when I used to build RC cars!!!)

Thanks

PS. Here's a couple more shots! New body shell set is also on it's way from the USA so I'll have my first attempt at a decent paint job when it arrives and once I can decide on a colour!!!

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I am looking to do something similar as far as wheels to my brat. How are those working out for you?

thanks, jeff

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