Assembly cvd question

[redzone]

Hi guys i have bought 2X packs of Yeah racing brand DF03 cvd's for my blitzer beetle, which have promptly broken the outer axle just behind the wheel nut thread when used on my blitzer!

i'm wondering if i can buy just the outer axle part from the appropriate tamiya cvd set and use them on the yeah racing parts or will i have to go out and buy 4 more genuine tamiya cvd's?

cheers, Dave

[TA-Mark]

The Tamiya sets come in pairs. Either the Thundershot universals #53028 (same as Top Force set) or the DF02 assembly universal shafts #53791 (same set as used on DF03MS and DT02MS). Far better quality than the Yeah Racing, 3Racing or GPM shafts.

[redzone]

Yeah that might be the best option as the only outer cvd parts I've found on ebay are titanium ones at $27 a pair!

[bjr250]

As Mark said the DF02 or Thundershot ones are probably the cheapest way to go.

I just had a look through the 2011 Tamiya Perfect Guide and the OP.499 (53499) set of outers look similar to the DF02 ones but they are listed as being compatible with on-road sets and will probably be shorter. I can't see any where Tamiya sell just the outer that will match up with an off-road application.

[redzone]

ah bummer brad..

you saw where i broke the yeah racing ones on saturday?

i had some thundershot uni's in it originally years ago and they broke in the same place. hope the modern ones are stronger..

[ideal2k]

broken the outer axle just behind the wheel nut thread

Well, the way I figure it there's only a couple of things that can make it break there.

1. If there is some kind of bind on the hex, and that's creating heat

2. If you severely overtighten the nut, thereby adding stress

3. Combination of those two and a severe impact.

[MAD RACER]

I saw the break.

Not good. I use those CVD's on lots of my cars but up the front and never broken a set.

I think CVD's arent good on a rough track like Boondal as they tend to straight them selves up due to the rotational drive.

Pro drivers perfer uni's on a rough track and even dog bones on really rough trackes as they let the suspension do it's job with no binding.

Well that's what i have learnt and i noticed a difference when i went from dog bones to uni's on my Ultima at Boondal.

Maybe the stock set up might be best????

Hope to see you soon again as it was a pleasure to catch up.

Take care and look after that nice Starion.

[bjr250]

ah bummer brad..

you saw where i broke the yeah racing ones on saturday?

i had some thundershot uni's in it originally years ago and they broke in the same place. hope the modern ones are stronger..

It is not the first time that I have seen the Yeah Racing ones break there but usually only when used in an extreme manner (lots of other bits being broken on the car as well).

I have the Tamiya DF-02 ones in both two wheel drive and four wheel drive buggies (Blazing Star, Dark Impact, DT-02MS) and am yet to have any problems other than forgetting to thread lock the grub screws. The Tamiya ones are definitely steel but I haven't used them in something with truck wheels and tyres yet. I guess I will find out if they last when I build up one of the Blitzers.

[bromvw]

i've had a set of the rc damper cvd's as fitted to the blackfoot extreme in my blitzer for a few months now . it runs traxx slash wheels and a tamiya sport tuned with touring car hardcups . DESPITE the efforts of both myself and my 14 year old its being 100% reliable and belive me we driven it very very hard . Give them a try .

[redzone]

Yeah i have just ordered 2 sets of genuine tamiya cvd's so we'll see how they hold up!

I dont think i ever broke a stock tamiya wheel axle, but i chopped out plenty of dogbones hence why i went to uni's/cvd's. the Thundershopt uni's went just behind the nut too IIRC. I'm not overtightening the nut either, i'm used to tensioning small items as i'm a 1:1 mechanic