Getting back into it, build advice? :)

[james_2k 0]

Hey guys, had a Tamiya kit a couple of years ago, i forget which chassis it was but think it was a TL01.

looking at getting back into it and am wondering if the following build looks reasonable, any rookie mistakes in the list?

many thanks for your help!

• Tamiya TA06 PRO Chassis Kit
  
• Ansmann Racing Xirius Pro Brushless Sensored ESC with 4.5T Motor
  
• 167000111 Ansmann Racing 7.4v 4000mAh 30C 2S Li-Po Battery Pack
  
• Ansmann Racing xMove 2.0 Charger
  
• AP2400 Acoms Technisport 2 Channel 2.4GHz Radio
  
• 51340 Tamiya Nissan GT-R Body Set
  
• 211000042 Ansmann Racing 15 Spoke Wheel & Tyre Set
  

[speedy_w_beans 4272]

A few thoughts... I hope some of this is helpful.

- TA06PRO: Nice! I have a TA05V2R; the R-level and PRO-level kits have all the nice goodies included.

- 4.5T is a pretty hot motor; are you racing, bashing, or doing speed runs? The lower the turns, the faster things wear out or break on the chassis. Watch your belts and ball diffs; we all love doing full-throttle launches at times. Also, a low-turn motor will provide less run time. I'd also consider a 40C or 50C LiPo to keep up with the current drawn under hard acceleration. If it was me I'd be thinking about 13.5T or 10.T, a 30C to 40C LiPo, and changing the gearing to get the top speed. But this depends entirely on what you're trying to do with the setup.

- Check your ESC and make sure it has low-voltage cutoff (around 6.2V to 6.4V) to protect the LiPo. If the LiPo's voltage goes too low the cells will be damaged.

- Make sure you have a balancing board to correctly charge your LiPo battery. The cells need to stay balanced to minimize the risk of damage.

- See if your charger provides a "storage charge" function. If you don't plan on driving the car for a few months, LiPos are happiest when they are about 40-50% charged and stored in a cool, dry environment.

- You may want to use Deans plugs, Traxxas plugs, or bullet connectors instead of the usual Tamiya Molex connector between the battery, ESC, and charger to reduce the risk of a meltdown at the connector.

- 2.4 GHz is the right decision for running brushless to avoid interference/glitching problems.

- Coupled with the question about motor turns, are you racing, bashing, or doing speed runs? For racing, Protoform makes some popular bodies including a Mazdaspeed 6 that is supposed to provide more steering due to aerodynamic effects. Also check out Protoform for a slippery body to do speed runs. For general bashing and playing, the GTR body is perfectly fine. Again, this depends on what you're trying to accomplish.

- On my TB-03 Xanaxi Nismo GTR kit, the supplied wheels are +2mm offset; these fill out the wheel wells pretty well. You might want to check wheel offset for the best "look."

- What steering servo are you looking at? This could have an impact on the BEC rating of your ESC. If you're running generic low end Futaba S3003/S3004 servos, then there's not a big concern with 1-2A. But if you start running high-speed, high-torque, digital servos then the BEC should probably be rated for 3A or more to avoid glitching the radio receiver.

Enjoy your build; it should be a lot of fun!

-Paul

[james_2k 0]

Hey Paul thanks a lot, thats very helpful indeed!

first of all i will be using it in a 'casual' manner not racing, but id like to be able to expand to that at a later date.

the charger is balanced and the ecs has a low volt cut off yes.

regarding the connectors for the battery etc, i wouldnt know where to start as i didnt know that was even an issue! i better get reading.

if you were making this car, would you upgrade anything else? like you said regarding bits breaking i guess it would be better to upgrade pinion etc rather than go through loads of lower grade ones as they break!

thanks again!

[speedy_w_beans 4272]

Knowing that you're going to play casually at first and then possibly club race later, you might consider the following...

- Build the chassis in stock form first and use it as-is. I looked through the TA06PRO manual and saw that it has a lot of nice things already, such as sealed gear diffs, metal drive cups, CV swing shafts, bearings, thread dampers, etc. For playing this is a very nice chassis and you really won't have to change much at all -- you'll be able to focus on your setup and experiment with it. The sealed gear diffs should work very well with higher power motors and won't require the attention ball diffs do.

- If you do start racing at the club level, consider getting a few of the optional toe blocks to set the rear toe and possibly the aluminum steering set and aluminum steering bridge if you find there is too much slop in the steering. The stabilizer / anti-roll bar set could be useful as well. A few spring sets, an assortment of damper oils, and an assortment of diff oils will also help you tune for conditions. I'd skip the carbon parts and titanium screws -- you'd likely not feel the difference. I'd also skip the ball diffs, one-way bearings, and front direct coupling -- Just use the diff oils to tune the front and rear.

- Something to think about -- Novak's Ballistic motor series has interchangeable stators, so you can buy a single 4.5T motor now and at a later date buy 10.5T, 13.5T, 17.5T, 21.5T, or even 25.5T stators at lower costs and reuse the motor can, rotor, sensor board, and sensor harness. This allows you to have multiple motors without actually having multiple motors.

- A nice guide on RC car setup can be found at http://users.telenet.be/elvo/.

-Paul

[james_2k 0]

Knowing that you're going to play casually at first and then possibly club race later, you might consider the following...

- Build the chassis in stock form first and use it as-is. I looked through the TA06PRO manual and saw that it has a lot of nice things already, such as sealed gear diffs, metal drive cups, CV swing shafts, bearings, thread dampers, etc. For playing this is a very nice chassis and you really won't have to change much at all -- you'll be able to focus on your setup and experiment with it. The sealed gear diffs should work very well with higher power motors and won't require the attention ball diffs do.

- If you do start racing at the club level, consider getting a few of the optional toe blocks to set the rear toe and possibly the aluminum steering set and aluminum steering bridge if you find there is too much slop in the steering. The stabilizer / anti-roll bar set could be useful as well. A few spring sets, an assortment of damper oils, and an assortment of diff oils will also help you tune for conditions. I'd skip the carbon parts and titanium screws -- you'd likely not feel the difference. I'd also skip the ball diffs, one-way bearings, and front direct coupling -- Just use the diff oils to tune the front and rear.

- Something to think about -- Novak's Ballistic motor series has interchangeable stators, so you can buy a single 4.5T motor now and at a later date buy 10.5T, 13.5T, 17.5T, 21.5T, or even 25.5T stators at lower costs and reuse the motor can, rotor, sensor board, and sensor harness. This allows you to have multiple motors without actually having multiple motors.

- A nice guide on RC car setup can be found at http://users.telenet.be/elvo/.

-Paul

thanks again paul, much appreciated.

think ill keep the chassis as stock for now then, and look at upgrades later.

ill have a look at that motor, but then id be lost again as im not sure about ESCs. i was looking at the speed passion v2.1 but its forward only, so not really sure whats good (and dont want to spend 200 on it!)

cheers!

[james_2k 0]

well apparantly noone has stock of the ta06 pro. anywhere!

thats very annoying, would have thought it would be quite popular, what does everyone use??

[james_2k 0]

disregard, time tunnel had it

[james_2k 0]

another question

the ansmann pro esc says it can take 2/3 lipo cells. i assume this means i can stick in an 11.1v battery?

typical after just buying a 7.4!! any thoughts guys? overkill? or should i just get another battery

[speedy_w_beans 4272]

For racing normally only 2S (7.4V) is allowed.

For playing you could put in a 3S, but with a 4.5T motor you should check the kV rating of the motor, multiply by 11.1V, and see how many RPMs the motor might theoretically spin. There may be a maximum safe RPM spec'd for the motor before the rotor shatters due to centripetal forces. Add in some safety margin, like maybe don't exceed 2/3 of the RPM limit, and that could settle the battery question pretty quickly.

-Paul

[Will16 45]

Hi James,

Your list seems good! One thing I would change would be your brushless combo. I would go for a less 'hot' combo, for your pleasure, and all round durability! I would try a 9T-13.5T combo, which will give you good speed and acceleration. Etronix does brushless combos, at good prices. I've a etronix 9T combo, and it's great! Also I would choose a LiPo battery too!

Just my 2 cents,

Will

[james_2k 0]

not too concerned about the racing reqs yet, but yes i was sure there had to be a downside

erm, its a 6400kv 4.5t.

so im guessing over 70k rpm, thats pretty mental

to make matters worse i cant find any max rpm values for the motor. but im sure when its in the car it wont make anything like that.. hmmmmm

oh and thanks again, you are a very helpful person and i really appreciate the help!

Hi James,

Your list seems good! One thing I would change would be your brushless combo. I would go for a less 'hot' combo, for your pleasure, and all round durability! I would try a 9T-13.5T combo, which will give you good speed and acceleration. Etronix does brushless combos, at good prices. I've a etronix 9T combo, and it's great!

Just my 2 cents,

Will

hey will. ooops just bought the motor combo today

im assuming with that said you wouldnt recommend going 11.1v on top of that? even with some fancy gearing?

anyway to be specific the motor is the 'AR127000024' - Ansmann Racing Xirius Pro 4.5T Sensored Brushless Motor not sure if anyone else can shed some light on the max rpm for it, because apparantly my google skills are weak

edit:

http://www3.ansmann.de/cms/en/engines-pipe...ess-motors.html

is the only info i can find on the motor, and they dont even list the specs! (the pro versions are down the bottom)

[speedy_w_beans 4272]

You might want to take a look at: http://dhrc.rchomepage.com/RolloutCalc.htm

Plugging in 2S, 7.4 V, 68T spur, 23T pinion, 2.17 transmission ratio, 6400 kV, 70% efficiency, 1500 g weight, and 64 mm tire diameter the estimated top speed of the vehicle is about 62 km/hr or 38 mph.

With 3S and 11.1 V the estimated vehicle speed is 93 km/hr or 58 mph. This setup could be quite a handful to drive on unprepared surfaces. With an average ride height of 5 mm between the bottom of the chassis and the pavement, it would be easy to bottom out when hitting a bump at these speeds.

You might also want to think about thermal management -- blower fans on the ESC and motor to keep things under control. Investing in an IR thermometer that can measure at least +100C would be a good idea so you can check ESC and motor temps after runs, then adjust gearing accordingly. A few packs of different pinion gears might be helpful.

It'll be fun to see this car zip around at these speeds, but I suspect a 10.5T or 13.5T motor is in your future... Don't forget to glue your tires to the rims!

-Paul

[james_2k 0]

interesting site thanks for that.

im going to go for the 7.4v then and maybe try out an 11.1 later. should be better being 4wd but im sure like you say it will be a handful!

[WillyChang 1814]

TA06 has some constraints to battery size-wise given its unique location in the chassis;

2s 4000 should be fine but 3s probably be too tall. Mine run hardpacks.

methink you'd be hardpressed to drive full-throttle on 4.5T with 2s even

make sure you build the diffs correctly & carefully... 'cos if topspeed running is your thing,

leaking silicone oil flung out sure makes a huge mess! especially hard to clean in the front

[james_2k 0]

yes im a bit worried even with the 2s i ordered size wise :S but i wont know till it arrives!

if you have the '06 could you measure the battery bay for me? the wires on the batt i ordered come out of the top so that should be ok.