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I've seen some members talking about using 1:1 automotive paint on hardbodies. As I've only ever used Tamiya paints (on one hardbody no less), I was wondering if there were any big differences I should be aware of - drying time, finish etc.

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I've seen some members talking about using 1:1 automotive paint on hardbodies. As I've only ever used Tamiya paints (on one body no less), I was wondering if there were any big differences I should be aware of - drying time, finish etc.

I can only coment on the Halfords spray cans . I've used these on hard bodies with no issues what so ever . Just treat it as a 1:1 paint job . Rub the shell down with 800 - 1000 wet and dry to give the paint a good 'key' to bond to . Give it a good wash with warm water and a bit of fairy . Make sure its 100% clean and dry . Prime and wet sand with 800 - 1000 wet and dry . Re prime and lightly 'flat back' with 1500 wet and dry - again used wet . re clean and lay down your top coat . LEAVE at least 24 hours . Wet sand with 2000 wet and dry - used wet . CLEAN and apply clear coat . give it at least a week to cure then polish with cutting compound to get a mirror finish . TAKE YOUR TIME AND WORK CLEAN is the main thing to remember . PS when laying down the top coats give it very light coats , allow 30 mins between each coat . many coats are better than one that will run and sag .

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The Peugeot cans i collected from the dealer yesterday say to use 3 or 4 light coats of paint 5 minutes apart, and then after 30 minutes use the clear 2K lacquer, again two coats 5 minutes apart. I makes no mention of rubbing down in between coats and is quite specific about getting the 2k clear coat on within 30 minutes of applying the colour layer.

They came as a pack, i ordered the colour and the lacquer came with it - 2 x 150ml spray cans for under £11.

Halfords cans are 300ml each, about £7-8 each.

Whatever paint you use you'll need plastic primer from halfords, grey or white dependent upon what colour paint you apply over the top.

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Sorry i forgot to say to use the plastics primer .percymon let me know how you get on with the 2k clear . Concerned it may melt a hard shell .

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Having painted *many* shells I can say most any paint for a 1:1 will work and if it is to achieve a particular factory car color then it is certainly the best way to go if its something way off the Tamiya color charts. I have used both Chrysler and Ford paint codes and cans to paint Tamiyas. If there was any problem I would only suggest that the Tamiya paints are very thin and allow all the details to shine through where some 1:1 paints may hide details due to their weight. 1:1 paints are made to hold up to the environment of a 1:1 and may be slightly heaver than model paints.

But in response to the original question I would say the 1:1 finish may influence the overall detail on a model and hide it somewhat.

But you will get the exact color you want which in the end may be all your interested in.

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I can only coment on the Halfords spray cans . I've used these on hard bodies with no issues what so ever . Just treat it as a 1:1 paint job . Rub the shell down with 800 - 1000 wet and dry to give the paint a good 'key' to bond to . Give it a good wash with warm water and a bit of fairy . Make sure its 100% clean and dry . Prime and wet sand with 800 - 1000 wet and dry . Re prime and lightly 'flat back' with 1500 wet and dry - again used wet . re clean and lay down your top coat . LEAVE at least 24 hours . Wet sand with 2000 wet and dry - used wet . CLEAN and apply clear coat . give it at least a week to cure then polish with cutting compound to get a mirror finish . TAKE YOUR TIME AND WORK CLEAN is the main thing to remember . PS when laying down the top coats give it very light coats , allow 30 mins between each coat . many coats are better than one that will run and sag .

Wow, I did nothing like that for the body I painted (though I did use 2 cans)

Jugg2built.jpg

First coat was essentially primer, then several layers of misting (spray almost dried in the air before hitting the body leaving a somewhat matte finish) Then for the final coat, I sprayed just until the paint started to "gloss" up (a tip I read somewhere here)

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you made a good job of it mate . I can only say how i do mine . Theres no right or wrong but good prep pays off in the long run with less chance of the paint peeling off .

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I don't know if I'd suggest the misting to anyone else though, since while it's fairly quick (and spectacularly good at covering up runs etc in the first coat), the red "dust" got everywhere in the house. I was finding it on the stove, on the bathroom floor and in rooms I'd never been into with a can of paint. ;)

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i 've built myself a cheap and cheerfull spray booth from a diy store pvc greenhouse with a old hepa vacume cleaner sucking out the dust / fumes . its rough and ready but it does the job . i spray in my workshop / shed because its heated and i have the only key ;)

post-37759-1325883035_thumb.jpg

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i always used Tamiya PS for my hard bodies

and finished them with automotive Motip Clear varnish

that is perfectly compatible with Tamiya's PS :unsure:

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For this body it's currently a toss up between Tamiya's Gunmetal, or whatever sexy blue I can find in the automotive section.

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auto paints offer a far wider choice of colours .

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I use Tamiya primer and then AutoAir Colors (which is an automotive paint) over that and finally a good clear to finish it off. You get way more colour options with automotive paints and they are designed to be tough in the long run. Bromvw mentioned the importance of good prep; it is absolutely true. Take the time to prep well and it will pay off in the end. On the clear issue, do a search on google on the issue. You will find that there is a short window to get your clear on the car after putting down colour. If you miss that window, you need to give it a week for the colour to fully dry before spraying clear.I suggest search google for this because I don't recall the science behind why this window occurs. Remember to mist the first coat of clear

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I've seen some members talking about using 1:1 automotive paint on hardbodies. As I've only ever used Tamiya paints (on one body no less), I was wondering if there were any big differences I should be aware of - drying time, finish etc.

As like your self ive only ever used tamiys paint to paint my models, but have also had experience in spraying cars bikes and various other things.

Not sure how the normal metal spray paint will hold up on the inside of a poly carb shell but there is a sparay called plastacoat, its what people use

to spray wing mirrors or to body colour the bumpers.Its half the price of tamiya paint.(mite invest in some myself).

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It's a hard body rather than lexan, but you do raise an issue I hadn't thought of; Is the regular paint meant for metal bodies fine or will I have to use the plasticoat as it's meant for plastics?

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All the automotive spray cans i've used in the last 5 years are fine with tamiya's hard bodys - i use the halfords stuff but have used other brands . No need to use pasticoat . Just prime with halfords plastics primer . The Boy racers have being painting the plastic trim in their rides for years so theres no issues at all . Sayer take a look at this pic , it was painted with Halfords spray cans . Hard Shell Sand Scorcher - modifed on a Blitzer chassis

EDIT . all acrylic based automotive paints either rattle can or spray gun applied are fine to use on rigid plastics . As confirmed by Halfords online Helpline .

post-37759-1325953440_thumb.jpg

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That's pretty sweet. Thanks.

Just though of another potential issue. I'm planning to pick out details with Tamiya's enamel paint pen. Will that react with either the clearcoat or the base colour?

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no problem tamiya enamal is fine over both . remember that car paint is designed for a hard life .

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Ive used Halfords automotive paints on a number of hardshells and found they give a great hard waring finish. Im pretty sure Halfords colour range is now mostly if not all acrylic based anyway so no problem with using on plastic. Their primers are also very useful and the satin black is a good match for the black plastic Tamiya using on their chassis.

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I use automotive paints for my airbrush works and two types of Tamiya paint in cans for ABS and lexan shells.

Tamiya cans are expensive but very good paints.

P1090638.jpg

P1090653a.jpg

cc.jpg

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Tamiya Paints are indeed awesome.

After having used another brand to paint an Optima Mid lexan shell, I couldn't agree more. The only reason I'd dabble with the Auto paints is for greater color options (especially for blue - as my LHS only has French blue, blue, light metallic blue and metallic blue.)

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The Blazer Fire Red is self-mixed as well. Otherwise you would not see the metallic effect of the Iriduum Yellow shining thourhg under the sun....

This is one of the reasons I use Automotive paints. Easy mixing and endless number of colors....

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Alrighty, took the advice in the thread and mixed it with the technique I used to paint the Jugg2

2 coats of Tamiya Plastic/metal primer

MuPrimer.jpg

Painting the black part of the bumper (I ran out of TS after the first coat, so I applied some leftover PS while it was still wet)

MuBumperpaint.jpg

The result was a semi-gloss finish, which is what I wanted anyway since that part of the bumper on the 1:1 is actually plastic/rubber/not metal.

I've gotta say, Tamiya masking tape is spectacular. I didn't bother pressing down the edges with my fingernail for the painting of the bumper (since the chrome bits would be covering it anyway) and the line was still as sharp as ever.

MuBumperpaint2.jpg

Then I had to mask that before painting the body

MuBumperMask.jpg

Several coats on the body. I ended up using a Dodge/Chrysler color: CBCC0424 Chili Pepper Red Pearl from the Dupli-Color "Perfect Match" series.

MuPaintgloss.jpg

MuPaintgloss2.jpg

And here's what it looks like after several coats of clear:

MuClearcoat.jpg

MuClearcoat2.jpg

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Looking good . Now leave it for a week to cure and buff it with compound for that glass like finish . Well done Buddie .

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