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Rough Rider/Buggy Champ twin rear shocks

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I have a idea for twin rear shocks on the Buggy Champ / Rough Rider . If i was to drill the tube joints having removed the small 'stud' and then drill through the roll bar could i fit a bolt to make a second shocker top mount ? All that would then be needed is a longer lower mounting bolt in the original swing arm . Question is would this put too much bending force into the lower arm bolt hole ? This is more for scale looks than to improve handling and if i was to do this i'd bin the tamiya shocks and use better scale units with internal springs . Any thoughts ?

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I have a idea for twin rear shocks on the Buggy Champ / Rough Rider . If i was to drill the tube joints having removed the small 'stud' and then drill through the roll bar could i fit a bolt to make a second shocker top mount ? All that would then be needed is a longer lower mounting bolt in the original swing arm . Question is would this put too much bending force into the lower arm bolt hole ? This is more for scale looks than to improve handling and if i was to do this i'd bin the tamiya shocks and use better scale units with internal springs . Any thoughts ?

There have been a dual shock mounting kit from RCH.

crp_108.jpg

And somebody remade this and sold them on ebay some time ago. I had one of these repros and it worked fine.

Here for example is a member who has it on his RR.

http://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.a...6&sid=26242

I think such a dual shock mount is best solution.

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There have been a dual shock mounting kit from RCH.

crp_108.jpg

And somebody remade this and sold them on ebay some time ago. I had one of these repros and it worked fine.

Here for example is a member who has it on his RR.

http://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.a...6&sid=26242

I think such a dual shock mount is best solution.

thank you very much , i think i could make those myself . i assume the lower hole mounts to the existing roll bar mounting point ? Look quite easy to do .

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I did this mod some time back. The distance between the pipe joint bolt and the location pin hole looked and when measured offered enough distance to fit two shocks. However, when fitted the angle required to meet the trailing arm tighened up the fit, so some freedom of operation was compromised. It looked ok, but offered little in the way of better damping. The RCH bracket looks to provide a better solution by "straighten up" the operating geometry. Re- Trailling Arm bolt force, back in the day, I drilled the hole with a 2.5mm bit all the way through and then tapped it all the way 3mm. You could then fit a longer and more secure cap screw.

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Aware this is a very old thread but here's what I've been toying with, re-using the brass ends of the re-re shocks on a modified bolt as a bracket . Not sure how it'll work in practice, but it seems to move well enough. Sits nicely under the body without any need for modification which was mainly what I wanted!

02.jpg

01.jpg

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That's thinking outside the box. Excellent!

I'm curious about the lower point. How does the whole thing handle?

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12 hours ago, Re-Bugged said:

If it did turn out to be to stiff then you could have run one without oil in so is just for aesthetics.

Good point, hadn't thought of that! Have to say the aesthetic was the driving force in giving it a go.

13 hours ago, mongoose1983 said:

I'm curious about the lower point. How does the whole thing handle?

The rest of the car is in bits so haven't had a chance to try it out in practice, but moving the axle by hand it seems promising. The shocks are now at a more acute angle than they would have been stock which isn't ideal, but think the rubber bushings are quite forgiving with the angle. Have used 4mm spacers at the top and bottom to keep it all evenly spaced. Will report back once I've had a chance to drive it....

 

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