Ebay scorcher

[OldSchoolRunner 116]

I'd like to replace the heavy brass chassis with something different & have seen a few nice chassis on here.They seem to have curved up sides!where are you guys getting them from?Have done a search on here but can't get specific topics.

Peanut,

You need to look for chassis that are made by Junfac. They are off excellent quality and I would recomend looking at one of these.

Here is a link

http://www.junfac.com/shop/index.php?main_...fc3462e79849068

OSR

[Percymon 2184]

Peanut,

You need to look for chassis that are made by Junfac. They are off excellent quality and I would recomend looking at one of these.

Here is a link

http://www.junfac.com/shop/index.php?main_...fc3462e79849068

OSR

or the ones sold by radshape, which are 99% the same, UK sourced and radshape offer some discount to subscribers here

[Peanut 1]

Thanks for the links & ideas.Percymon I have read your thread & love what you've done with the shell.Could you tell me what you used for filler around the sunroof please?

I have found radshape on ebay & think I'll buy one of his chassis.

Tomorrow I'm taking the shell into work to begin stripping the paint,wish me luck!!!!!

[Percymon 2184]

I used isopon car body filler on mine, I think there are probably better fillers but I had bad experiences with milliput previously so went with something I knew more about.

To strip the paint get a box of oven pride oven cleaner from your supermarket, a bottle of viscous liquid that you poor into the supplied heavy duty plastic bag. Add body and liquid to bag, seal and leave for 24 hours with the occassional agitaion. Then remove body , immerse in bucket if clean water and remove any loose paint with a small sponge or a toothbrush.

[30YrsL8r 97]

I used isopon car body filler on mine, I think there are probably better fillers but I had bad experiences with milliput previously so went with something I knew more about.

I bought milliput at the weekend to repair the crack in my Scorcher bonnet (hood).

This was on the advice of the guy at modelzone. [What was your problem with it?] Never mind - I found your post.

[Peanut 1]

While I'm still waiting for my other chassis to arrive I decided to work on the shell mods.Cut out & shaped the front & rear arches to start with!

Needs a bit of shape!

Cut once & masked ready for cut two!!

I then decided I wanted to go thinner again on the front so marked that up tonight ready for cutting tomorrow.I also marked around the decklid & might cut that away to give more shape to the rear.I've seen the whole section cut away a lot right upto the vent below the rear window but I think I just want a bit of shape!!

I also marked up the glass,as it's blitzer I have no worries about cutting it.I'm going to remove both front windows but keep the quarter glass & keep the rear side windows for sponsorship decals & race number etc.

[Percymon 2184]

I've seen the whole section cut away a lot right upto the vent below the rear window but I think I just want a bit of shape!!

I agree - i looked at those very truncated arches, but in the end decided i wanted the curvature to remain and follow the wheel outer radius

[OldSchoolRunner 116]

While I'm still waiting for my other chassis to arrive I decided to work on the shell mods.Cut out & shaped the front & rear arches to start with!

Needs a bit of shape!

Cut once & masked ready for cut two!!

I then decided I wanted to go thinner again on the front so marked that up tonight ready for cutting tomorrow.I also marked around the decklid & might cut that away to give more shape to the rear.I've seen the whole section cut away a lot right upto the vent below the rear window but I think I just want a bit of shape!!

I also marked up the glass,as it's blitzer I have no worries about cutting it.I'm going to remove both front windows but keep the quarter glass & keep the rear side windows for sponsorship decals & race number etc.

Peanut it looks really good so far! definately good to see that you are making it your own!

I was glad to see that you went with the Junfac chassis plate! You will not be disappointed! They really are of excellent quality.

OSR:)

[Peanut 1]

I agree - i looked at those very truncated arches, but in the end decided i wanted the curvature to remain and follow the wheel outer radius

To be honest mate,after buying this & doing loads of searches it was your thread that ultimately made up my mind to cut the rear the same!

[Peanut 1]

Finally after getting lost in the post,thanks Parcel Monkey,my second srb chassis arrived.Looks really good with a shed load of spares!!!!Has spare front axle which is complete,spare shocks,spare radio box,chassis & strenghtening plate,rear axle casing,body posts,bumper,ball race cups,universal joints & loads of screws,washers & rubber parts etc.

Body does have some damage on the upright to the roof section but I'll sort that!

[Percymon 2184]

Nice addition, but put it to one side and finish the Scorcher first (otherwise you'll end up like me, loads of projects on the go at once !!)

[Peanut 1]

Going to strip & clean this one like the scorcher & make one original chassis for the shelf & then the other is going to be my runner with a few upgrades.One thing,what do I use to lubricate the gearbox shafts & should there be any type of oil in the gearbox just to splash up onto the gears when running?Might be a silly question but I want to build it right.

[bromvw 744]

Going to strip & clean this one like the scorcher & make one original chassis for the shelf & then the other is going to be my runner with a few upgrades.One thing,what do I use to lubricate the gearbox shafts & should there be any type of oil in the gearbox just to splash up onto the gears when running?Might be a silly question but I want to build it right.

bit of cycle gease is all thats needed . just a thin film on the gears and shafts . oil is no good it just leaks out

[Peanut 1]

Could I use any grease?I work as a mechanic & have access to loads!!!!

[usel;escrapytwit 0]

This may sound a bit thick!, but which way and how far back id the loop set back? Many Thanks.

Hi its only a millimeter or so at the most but enough to clear the front tubes. a new er one without the little set back spring loop will rub against the front tubes and jam the suspenssion.

by the way i would want the shocks and rear springs if fitted. I have originals to replace your bits 07795604342

[usel;escrapytwit 0]

or the ones sold by radshape, which are 99% the same, UK sourced and radshape offer some discount to subscribers here

I have a radshape one and it bent but it was super hard use it straigtend again ok but wont for ever. I would just double up the original its the best way forward for stong light and efficient. ( its what we used to do back in the day and still best my sons re re is proof) but watch out in realy damp sand it can work its way between the two plates and bend them wich binds the steering but a good blast thro the sea or a puddle clears it again. but again more extreem use than most would give them.

[Peanut 1]

Noticed a couple of differences in parts today.The rear trailing arms are different,is one newer than the other?

Also the front upright has nipples to hold the suspension spring inplace as opposed to 2 screws.Is this a really old style axle?

I placed the plastic motor & gearbox cover in a mix of oven cleaner & bleach for the night & they look perfect.

I also took all the front axles into work,began stripping & cleaning all the parts.I have rebuilt one but will have pics when they are all done!

[30YrsL8r 97]

The MK2 front uprights have the dimples, MK1 uprights have screws.

The rear arms with the bearing recess on both sides is the MK1, the other is MK2.

What was the oven cleaner:bleach ratio you used?

[Peanut 1]

Thanks for that chap.

To be honest I chucked a bit of both into an old food can & left it for the night!I'd probarbly say half & half though.

Just need to work out a way of getting 20 year old paint off of body sheels next!!!!!

[bromvw 744]

Thanks for that chap.

To be honest I chucked a bit of both into an old food can & left it for the night!I'd probarbly say half & half though.

Just need to work out a way of getting 20 year old paint off of body sheels next!!!!!

belive it or not use oven cleaner - The oven pride one that you get a bag with . stick the shell in . leave it over night . rinse and give it a scrub with a old tooth brush .

[Peanut 1]

Okay I'll give that a go before the weekend.I'll take pics in progress.Thanks mate,if it works I'm going to LOL!!

[Peanut 1]

Been browsing this evening.Anyone on here bought & tried this set up at all?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TAMIYA-Buggy-Cha...7#ht_7534wt_698

[Percymon 2184]

Been browsing this evening.Anyone on here bought & tried this set up at all?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TAMIYA-Buggy-Cha...7#ht_7534wt_698

a few members have it, you'll need to search the showrooms to find them though. Its a nice quality piece of kit and does resolve the rear suspension geometry issues.

[bromvw 744]

Been browsing this evening.Anyone on here bought & tried this set up at all?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TAMIYA-Buggy-Cha...7#ht_7534wt_698

Peanut , i've seen a few of these in the Scorchers section from the main page in members showrooms. They seem like good quality items as is all the rc channel stuff . Big advantage i see is that the camber will be maintained throughout the whole suspension travel . Plus if you buy their drive cups you can use cvd's as drive shafts. I'am itching to get my own Funco/Champ finished but a lack of funds is slowing me down . That will feature some re channel items

[Peanut 1]

Rebuilt & greased my front & rear axles.Fitted them to my Radshape chassis.Brilliant bit of kit.Decided to keep the torsion bars in to assist the shocks until I decide whether or not to upgrade them.Also bought a servo mount so I can fit direct steering,just waiting for that to arrive.Also ordered some shiny wheel nuts & some new bearings for my other chassis.

Going to take it into work tomorrow & mock up a battery tray & servo plate.