pinion help

[elsworth 0]

hello

can any one explain what is the best ,the higher the pinion number the best or the lower the pinion number the best. please explain like you are taking to a 10 year old(laymans terms)

thanks

[GregM 1109]

1. What R/C car are you using?

2. What motor are you using?

3. Do you use the supplied wheels or did you customized your car with other wheels in different size?

Generally speaking, the hotter your motor and the bigger your wheels, the less teeth your pinion should have. Avoid fast-wearing aluminium/alloy pinions, replace them with durable steel pinions if possible. Tamiyas Brass pinions are O.K. where there are not other compatible steel pinions available, though.

[elsworth 0]

ive got a lancia delta toa1 using original pinion

ive got 2 x tl01 using original pinion

ive got df03 ra using original pinion

ive got ff02 using original pinion

ive got m03 using original pinion

and a stadium blitzer using original pinion

they have all have had metal bearings

all cars have a 15t clash motor

if i can make them all faster by changing the pinion size then, i will

of course buying steel ones

what do you suggest

regards

[mike_o 35]

The pinion itself will not make any car faster, it's chosing the correct pinion for a given scenario (= selecting the rigth gear) that will make a difference. Of course Tamiya have already chosen the best pinion for a given car and an expected average use. But if you change the motor or if you use the car in special way (like oval racing in high speed, or the opposite, hill climbing or crawling), the car will perform better with an adjustment of the stock pinion (gearing).

Normally, a 15T motor requires a smaller pinion (= higher gear ratio (but not the same as higher "gearing")) than the stock 540 silver can to perform better overall. If, however, your only focus is only top speed and you a willing to sacrifice acceleration and risk overheating, then stick with the stock gearing or even drop a few teeth. But I doubt you'd want that for all of your cars.

Probably, you'll want different things from your various cars, so it's hard to say anything in general....

cheers

[Zac_F83 117]

ive got a lancia delta toa1 using original pinion

ive got 2 x tl01 using original pinion

ive got df03 ra using original pinion

ive got ff02 using original pinion

ive got m03 using original pinion

and a stadium blitzer using original pinion

they have all have had metal bearings

all cars have a 15t clash motor

if i can make them all faster by changing the pinion size then, i will

of course buying steel ones

what do you suggest

regards

what are you wanting out of them? I have a TT01 drifter with a ARMMA 15t motor it does ok with the stock gearing (61t spur/ 19t pinion) it is the lowest (numerically higher) ratio available for them so I'm leaving it- it helps keep the motor temps down and it accelerates fast which is needed for drifting

15t motors make a lot of mid to high rpm power so they need to be geared as close to the higher rpm's as possible to get the benefit of the lower turn motor

if any of the motor mounts in your chassis' are adjustable buy pinions a couple teeth smaller (I would say no more than 2 teeth less then what each chassis has now) and see if you don't like what it does to the car(s)- also buy motor heat sinks if you don't have them they to will also help

your battery also makes difference- I'm running a 4600mAh NiMH 6 cell in my stock 540RS TT01 Superbird and it FLIES-

offroad is a completely different ball game the vehicle needs the torque to move on rough terrainfor that Stadium Blitzer I'd go 3-4 teeth smaller on the pinion

This implies that the motor mounts are in fact adjustable- the TT01's are not they require different spur gears and certain pinions sizes for the given spur gear

[TA-Mark 195]

The DF03RA already has a steel pinion (0.5 module). It's the mainshaft (inside the rear gearbox) that has the aluminium gear that wears quickly. DF03RA need a replacement Five Stars steel mainshaft (FS7038 or FS7039). These shafts are very hard to find.

TA01 will also use an aluminium gear on the mainshaft gear (fits into the backside of the spur gear) and the idler gear in the rear gearbox. Replace the TA01 gearset with a TA02 gearset to remove the aluminium gears.

TA01, TL01, FF02, M03 all use 0.6 module sized teeth. Standard Tamiya pinions are aluminium.

The Blitzer is 0.8 module sized teeth. Standard Tamiya pinions are aluminium.

The factory gearing in all of these models will be correct when using the kit supplied motor or similar rpm replacement motors. As already mentioned, fitting hotter motors will require smaller pinions be fitted (or larger spur gears or a combination of both). It's cheaper to buy a range of pinions at once (they're about $2.50 each), and have them put in one parcel to save on postage. Cost the same amount to post 5 pinions as it does to post 1.

The only Tamiya model I've found that has the wrong size pinion in the kit is the DF01 (buggy version of the TA01). It's supplied with a 21 tooth pinion, the same as the tourer and rally TA01 versions, but it has much larger wheels. A 19 tooth pinion is a much better match to the wheel size in a DF01 when using the kit supplied motor.

Battery capacity (mAh) will lengthen runtime, but have little effect on top speed. Battery voltage will increase motor rpm, and therefore top speed.

[Tamiya Era 778]

For:

1)- Dynatech 02H = 12T ~ 15T

2)- Dynatech 01R = 16T ~ 19T

3)- Technigold = 20T ~ 23T

[elsworth 0]

[quote name='TA-Mark'

thank you i have a much better understanding of things

regards richard

[elsworth 0]

what are you wanting out of them? I have a TT01 drifter with a ARMMA 15t motor it does ok with the stock gearing (61t spur/ 19t pinion) it is the lowest (numerically higher) ratio available for them so I'm leaving it- it helps keep the motor temps down and it accelerates fast which is needed for drifting

15t motors make a lot of mid to high rpm power so they need to be geared as close to the higher rpm's as possible to get the benefit of the lower turn motor

if any of the motor mounts in your chassis' are adjustable buy pinions a couple teeth smaller (I would say no more than 2 teeth less then what each chassis has now) and see if you don't like what it does to the car(s)- also buy motor heat sinks if you don't have them they to will also help

your battery also makes difference- I'm running a 4600mAh NiMH 6 cell in my stock 540RS TT01 Superbird and it FLIES-

offroad is a completely different ball game the vehicle needs the torque to move on rough terrainfor that Stadium Blitzer I'd go 3-4 teeth smaller on the pinion

This implies that the motor mounts are in fact adjustable- the TT01's are not they require different spur gears and certain pinions sizes for the given spur gear

thank you

[elsworth 0]

what are you wanting out of them? I have a TT01 drifter with a ARMMA 15t motor it does ok with the stock gearing (61t spur/ 19t pinion) it is the lowest (numerically higher) ratio available for them so I'm leaving it- it helps keep the motor temps down and it accelerates fast which is needed for drifting

15t motors make a lot of mid to high rpm power so they need to be geared as close to the higher rpm's as possible to get the benefit of the lower turn motor

if any of the motor mounts in your chassis' are adjustable buy pinions a couple teeth smaller (I would say no more than 2 teeth less then what each chassis has now) and see if you don't like what it does to the car(s)- also buy motor heat sinks if you don't have them they to will also help

your battery also makes difference- I'm running a 4600mAh NiMH 6 cell in my stock 540RS TT01 Superbird and it FLIES-

offroad is a completely different ball game the vehicle needs the torque to move on rough terrainfor that Stadium Blitzer I'd go 3-4 teeth smaller on the pinion

This implies that the motor mounts are in fact adjustable- the TT01's are not they require different spur gears and certain pinions sizes for the given spur gear

thank you

[Backlash 481]

elsworth,

Fitting a larger pinion, will give an increase in top speed, but your car will be slower to accelerate.. Fitting a larger pinion will also cause your motor to work harder, therefore it will draw more power from your battery, and your runtimes will be lower... The excess current draw will also cause the motor to run hotter, and its life will be shortened because of the heat.. I would suggest not increasing your pinion size by any more than one or two teeth maximum, otherwise you may burn out your motor.. Fitting an aluminium heatsink to your motor can help to lower motor temperatures if need be..

Fitting a smaller pinion, will reduce your top speed, but will increase your acceleration.. Your motor will not work as hard with a smaller pinion, so there will be less current draw, and you will get slightly longer run times.. The motor will also run cooler, due to the lower current draw, and it will also last longer (lifespan)..

If you were running your car at high speed in a large open area such as a car park or race track, then you could consider going up 1 or 2 teeth larger on the pinion to gain more speed..

If you were running your car in a small space, where you going at a relatively slow speed,(i.e. not reaching the cars full speed) and are constantly accelerating from a standing start, (eg drifting) then you may consider going down 1 or 2 teeth on the pinion to gain some more acceleration..

As TA Mark said, the gear ratio or pinion size that Tamiya suggests in its kits is a good compromise between acceleration, and overall top speed.. This is not to say that you cannot gain some benefit in speed or acceleration by altering the pinion size to better suit your needs, just do it in moderation, otherwise you risk burning out your motor..

Goodluck.

[elsworth 0]

[quote name='Backlash'

thanks alot