Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I spotted this on the local Craigslist, the add was placed on December 18th. I was looking for a retro item that has eluded my best efforts so far and happened to see the add. Listed as never run with box and everything for 300 USD. I spoke with the gentleman and he won't part it but isn't absolute on the price. I'm not asking for a price, only I can make that decision. However, if you found this for sale where you lived, what would you do?

Posted
I spotted this on the local Craigslist, the add was placed on December 18th. I was looking for a retro item that has eluded my best efforts so far and happened to see the add. Listed as never run with box and everything for 300 USD. I spoke with the gentleman and he won't part it but isn't absolute on the price. I'm not asking for a price, only I can make that decision. However, if you found this for sale where you lived, what would you do?

Man I would go look at. If it is what you want then

1. Cooly pull out a wad of cash ($200) ($20s)

2. Count it out infront of him

3. He might take it (Deal IS Done!)

if not

4. Ask him what it is going to take.

5. If he comes down $25-50 you go up $25-50 and hopefully you meet in the middle.

If not then pick it up on ebay later on. lololol

Good luck! Keep us posted!

OSR

Posted

Shelf queen or runner? keep the battery that caught my eye and pass it on? Sell the body and make it something else? The thought is to go for it?

Posted
Shelf queen or runner? keep the battery that caught my eye and pass it on? Sell the body and make it something else? The thought is to go for it?

Even at the asking price this is a great deal . Ok so Tamiya may re release it but there's no way your going to lose money on a original . i'd buy it and restore it to shelf queen standard then either sell it on or give it a run now and then . Go for it. You could even convert the battery to lipo by fitting lipo cells into the case .

Posted

It appears there isn't much in the way of parts for it, so it's not a likely runner. I don't know if it's shelf queen material without seeing it up close and that white on blue XLT ford paintjob does nothing good for me personally. It predates everything else here and might be a fun project at the right price. I don't think he'd go under 200 for it, so the price is questionable. It's not the most popular model on that chassis so it's not the best trade bait or sell it on material. I could be wrong on any or all of these conclusions but for lack of a good reason I'll probably pass. You guys are right on about cash in hand but you never work from a wad of cash, get it in your head what your max is then offer well under it, you can always go up. Then be sure and have some small bills, count it out and when the cash is out there you can haggle down a bit more most of the time but not when you have a pocket full of money.

If anybody has any more insight into what to do with it, I'd like to hear it. This is a model I don't know much about so everythings useful.

Posted

Well used examples are now selling for equivalent of $180-200 on uk eBay, with lightly used ones around $250.

Other than it needing some decals on the body and the current ones removing from the radio box this looks like a very very good example. The Tyres may be perished with age , and the black front bumper might not be original (although I've seen discussion about some early black bumpers rather than the normal grey ones). Box looks perfect.

It might not be your usual thing but the srbs have a habit of getting under your skin. You could always change it to a scorcher later with different wheels and a re-re bodyset.

Ok deal at $300, good deal at $275, bargain at $240 or less IMO

Posted
Well used examples are now selling for equivalent of $180-200 on uk eBay, with lightly used ones around $250.

Other than it needing some decals on the body and the current ones removing from the radio box this looks like a very very good example. The Tyres may be perished with age , and the black front bumper might not be original (although I've seen discussion about some early black bumpers rather than the normal grey ones). Box looks perfect.

It might not be your usual thing but the srbs have a habit of getting under your skin. You could always change it to a scorcher later with different wheels and a re-re bodyset.

Ok deal at $300, good deal at $275, bargain at $240 or less IMO

AT least I know more about what to look for. To me the battery alone is worth 30 or 40 if any good. That's for the current BT50. I would have to consider that in any price negotiated.

Thanks

Posted

Ok, the summary. Tires are in great shape, it was stored on a wood block to keep them good. The front bumper was painted black, so no problem there. Original MSC shows no wear or marks at all. Only one problem found and that's the rear guard, rere uses the same part so not a big deal. It has 2 good original hump packs included and the final price was 225. I located some decals in Australia that can work. I'm not going to run it or shelf it. It's trade bait for maybe an Opel 400 or that Ligier that pops up now and then or whatever comes along. Thanks for the help on what to look for.

Posted

Could you all that are a bit more familiar with this model tell me what you think. I took the paint off the front bumper and found some discoloration that I'm pretty sure I've seen before. Kind of a rounded lighter color just in front of the mounting point. Tell me I'm wrong on this.

Posted
Could you all that are a bit more familiar with this model tell me what you think. I took the paint off the front bumper and found some discoloration that I'm pretty sure I've seen before. Kind of a rounded lighter color just in front of the mounting point. Tell me I'm wrong on this.

looks like impact stress damage to me Dave . possiably why it was painted ???

Posted

Ya, I'd have to agree on both points. A point I didn't mention is that normally old paint is hard to remove and this just about wiped off. Also under the black paint on the electrical box were marks on the bottom of the reciever end like road debri hitting it. It cleaned up fine...................but, let's just say I'm re evaluating. Right now it's run it or sell it as is, it ain't no shelf queen. Not here anyway.

Posted
Only one problem found and that's the rear guard, rere uses the same part so not a big deal.

You are in for a surprice.. The rere rearcage is longer, and will not fit under the shell unless you modify it.

Posted
You are in for a surprice.. The rere rearcage is longer, and will not fit under the shell unless you modify it.

so fit one of the many reproduction ones or find a original - no big deal ;)

Posted

If I knew then what I know now I'd have started lower in the price. If I'd have known the paint scheme I wouldn't have gone to look at it. Given where and probably how the rear guard broke, I have another idea. It broke right behind the roll bar because it doesn't clear the motor cover bolt very well. If I sleeve the shaft right there it will be stronger than new, until I find a part for it. My Ex had a Ford with that same paint scheme, It creeps me out. I looked at bodies this morning and didn't see any at the store that I liked. However, will a clodbuster window set work? I scavaged a new tinted one from the discount bin. It doesn't need it but I've really got to change up it's looks.

Posted
If I knew then what I know now I'd have started lower in the price. If I'd have known the paint scheme I wouldn't have gone to look at it. Given where and probably how the rear guard broke, I have another idea. It broke right behind the roll bar because it doesn't clear the motor cover bolt very well. If I sleeve the shaft right there it will be stronger than new, until I find a part for it. My Ex had a Ford with that same paint scheme, It creeps me out. I looked at bodies this morning and didn't see any at the store that I liked. However, will a clodbuster window set work? I scavaged a new tinted one from the discount bin. It doesn't need it but I've really got to change up it's looks.

The cage is always tight to the bolt on the motor cover, and when the chassis plate flexes the body mounts transfer the flex through the roll hoop.

I personally think the deal was a good one; it just sounds to me its not your sort of model and so different to the racers in your stable. Now the paint is off the bumper , a bit of polish on the body and with a set of decals added, you'll more than recoup your outlay on eBay.

Posted

Here in a little while I'll make a call to see what might be available for it locally. There's a friend that has a couple of these and the chances are pretty good he may have some spare parts. Yes, it's pretty different from a speed car. I figured to drop in a ECS, radio, servo and battery to see what it's like. Something with all the fail safes and just on the carpet.

Posted

Ya, that's a different one. I wondered about the steering and it's old school, Turns much better when it's rolling. I went through 2 old type batteries in under 5 minutes. It's got the slower gear set in it now and I don't think it could get away from me. It needs new ball links and the clod window would fit. I'm just going to put it on the shelf and look for some parts.

Posted

I've found sources on pretty much everything but would it be better to fix it and then sell it or just sell it on as is? It's no secret what I paid for it or how much parts cost, so I was just wondering if there was much point to fixing it here. I also decided that if I'm going to thin the flock, one of the 3 959 should find a new home too. Space is the driving force behind it.

Posted

The reason I asked this question is the feature/ defect issue. If I put it back to stock with decals and everything somebody will want it without. Right now I value it at 175, purchase price less batteries.

Anything I add to it will bring that up. I'd be pleased to simply break even. Any input on this would be great.

Speaking of defects, it's agreed that the clear case should be clear and not painted. However the paint kept out most of the UV damage. So is that a feature or a defect? Here's a picture of it clear

Posted

Well, grey/brown bumper is a go. There's a black one on it's way too. Same goes for the rear guard. Graphic example is ordered and once here the local place will fix what needs to be fixed. I'm going to bearing it because it's the right thing to do. All the extras will just go in the box. I got all the tape off the box without damaging it. I'll treat it like I intend to keep it, and take a loss on it in the end. Bumper picture

Posted
Well, grey/brown bumper is a go. There's a black one on it's way too. Same goes for the rear guard. Graphic example is ordered and once here the local place will fix what needs to be fixed. I'm going to bearing it because it's the right thing to do. All the extras will just go in the box. I got all the tape off the box without damaging it. I'll treat it like I intend to keep it, and take a loss on it in the end. Bumper picture

I would keep the original grey bumper.

You can get rid of the white stress marks pretty easily: just drop it into a pot with boiling water for a few seconds. Repeat if necessary until stress marks are gone. Used this trick several times, works great! :rolleyes:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recent Status Updates

×
×
  • Create New...