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RA1028

Bruiser 2012 (spy photo from Nuremberg Toy Fair 2012

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I kinda hope Tamiya gives us some breather room ... that's a lot of spending >.<

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Like I said though, probably much better performance

Although for the most part, this epic re release is probably not being purchased by those who want it for pure performance.

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Funny how sanity plummets down the pan when faced with a fine looking chassis innit :lol:

I'll resist the Bruiser though, the Mountaineer might be a tougher challenge although a Honcho and Slash still make more sense financially

You aint kidding mate. :)

I do remember you saying you prefer the Mounty shell.

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RC4WD sure ain't Tamiya but then again my opinion of Tamiya's quality isn't what it used to be either. Lots of scale enthusiasts run RC4WD trucks and generally seem to get on fine with them. My opinion of their universal shafts isn't good thats for sure.

How would they be more fun to run? The four link Tundra for me would almost certainly be more fun to run. Its looks vs performance would be a really good balance, which for me personally is important. For slow speed crawling the four link set up would be articulate and compliant, you would see it easily do its job going over rough terrain, nice to see working in a scale truck. In third gear and at speed it would easily handle jumps and again would take what was thrown at it. I've never run a Bruiser but I have run a F-350 with 2.2's and jacked up suspension, so a pretty much similar set up. For slow speed crawling the suspension was almost entirely non existent, it might as well not be there. In third gear at speed my F-350 used to go through leaf springs all the time, they would just bend utterly out of shape even with the hardest set up, and I don't seriously misuse my vehicles. Maybe the 2012 Bruiser will be better engineered for it but I suspect it'll be the same story. Tamiya seem to have a habit with their trucks of over engineering certain parts and under engineering others. With the huge amount of motor combos available to people these days it not always a good mix.

At the end of the day my pimped out F-350 looked a lot more fun to drive than it actually was, reading around others reports of driving the Bruiser it sounds like a similar story.

A pimped out Tundra with four links plus shocks sure isn't cheap either, definitely agree there. Like I said though, probably much better performance

Well we will have to see just how good/bad a performer the Bruiser is. However from what you have said it seems that to get a good performing scaler you need to pay Bruiser type money anyway...

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Are we taking it for granted that we will get the same sized kit box with original artwork & blister packs? Would be a shame for them to go to all this trouble and not top it off by doing that.

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Are we taking it for granted that we will get the same sized kit box with original artwork & blister packs? Would be a shame for them to go to all this trouble and not top it off by doing that.

It has to be blister packed. There is no excuse....

As for artwork, I predict a slight update to the original box art:

1. no TOYOTA emblem on the front windshield

2. wheel art changes (hub style)

3. decals altered to match the new kit

4. darkened frame to match the new kit frame

edited to add:

5. small font "(2012)" will be added after the name (like others)

6. other obvious changes like model number, price, etc.

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I'am sorry but theres no way on earth i'd buy one of these . Its expensive . Its under engineered .Its slow . Plastic gears !!!!!!!! Lastly there are better scale trucks available . Sorry Tamiya but it just holds no appeal to me what so ever .

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I'am sorry but theres no way on earth i'd buy one of these . Its expensive . Its under engineered .Its slow . Plastic gears !!!!!!!! Lastly there are better scale trucks available . Sorry Tamiya but it just holds no appeal to me what so ever .

Thank you. One more kit left for the rest of us ;)

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I'm sorry but there's no way on earth I'd be able to afford one of these. It's expensive. It's over engineered .It's slow like a scaler. Self lubricating plastic gears instead of soft aluminum !!!!!!!! Lastly there are better scale trucks available from China. Sorry Tamiya just holds no appeal to me what so ever.

/fixed it for you ;)

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From the picture of the new tranny, the only metal gears are the motor pinion and the small gears on the secondary shafts. The rest are plastic. Which is actually fine, as long as the metal ones are steel. The color looks like it could be hardened steel, but I can't be sure. Still, it should last a very long time. The shifting forks and drive dog parts looks like metal to me, too.

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It has to be blister packed. There is no excuse....

As for artwork, I predict a slight update to the original box art:

1. no TOYOTA emblem on the front windshield

2. wheel art changes (hub style)

3. decals altered to match the new kit

4. darkened frame to match the new kit frame

edited to add:

5. small font "(2012)" will be added after the name (like others)

6. other obvious changes like model number, price, etc.

That would do nicely. ;)

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Well, assuming for a second that a deal can be done, I cant wait to see what a TC Competition for one of these will involve ;)

How far would you go to get one???

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What is the difference between Bruiser and Mountaineer rims/wheels?? I wish they would have redesigned the axles to take a hex mount adapter...

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Well, I guess I'm one of the only guys that never really wanted one. I saw the MSRP on TamiyaUSA and at over $1,200. I know I'll never get one. Actual prices will be cheaper but there are still better and more scale type trucks out there. I am happy for the guys that really wanted this but its too much for me. Besides my wife would kill me if I brought one home.

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Well, I guess I'm one of the only guys that never really wanted one. I saw the MSRP on TamiyaUSA and at over $1,200. I know I'll never get one. Actual prices will be cheaper but there are still better and more scale type trucks out there. I am happy for the guys that really wanted this but its too much for me. Besides my wife would kill me if I brought one home.

You could always wait a few months until 'pre-owned' trucks start appearing on eBay for a fraction of the price. ;)

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basgetz

ebay is going to explode with old ****, i love tamiya

I use the for sale ads on alot of the forums instead of ebay. I have two listed here and other forums if anyone is interested in an original one. One is mint the other is very nice condition just not as complete.

Not wanting the re-re more of the crawling scene for me. So I am cutting my stuff that isnt of interest to me anymore.

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Obviously, the white plastic in a model car is not made to stay white. And good TC modelers like mcovalsk or Wyoming would sure be able to make that white plastic look even more realistic than the clear signal lamps. I prefer the original ones, it's my choice. You just have to work them, while the clear ones require more money than talent to look accurate to the 1979 Toyota SR-5.

;)

I can't understand at all why the solid moulded lenses would be preferable. Would you prefer the headlights and rear clusters to be solid white moulded too?

Clear <edit>park lights</edit> are a huge improvement, especially if you want to add real lights to the truck. On the real truck, they are clear, with a fogged faded appearance on more aged trucks. Sand them inside with a sanding stick, or fog the insides by brushing some CA or acetone nail varnish and they will look really accurate. The solid white moulded <edit>park light</edit> lenses was one 'feature' of the original truck that I really didn't like. It's far more difficult to make the solid white plastic ones look realistic on close inspection, near impossible to make them look translucent, and impossible to actually add working <edit>park lights</edit>.

If you really want the challenge of trying to paint the clear <edit>park lights</edit>, you still can. Undercoat them white, and you're away.

This re-re looks in every way superior to the original.

- James

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Good grief; it's the Sand Scorcher front fenders all over again...

By the way, if you want the taillights to be really scale-accurate, they should be pinkish, and slightly different colors. It is an old Toyota, after all... ;)

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;)

I can't understand at all why the solid moulded lenses would be preferable. Would you prefer the headlights and rear clusters to be solid white moulded too?

Clear turn signals are a huge improvement, especially if you want to add real lights to the truck. On the real truck, they are clear, with a fogged faded appearance on more aged trucks. Sand them inside with a sanding stick, or fog the insides by brushing some CA or acetone nail varnish and they will look really accurate. The solid white moulded indicator lenses was one 'feature' of the original truck that I really didn't like. It's far more difficult to make the solid white plastic ones look realistic on close inspection, near impossible to make them look translucent, and impossible to actually add turn lights.

If you really want the challenge of trying to paint the clear turn indicators, you still can. Undercoat them white, and you're away.

This re-re looks in every way superior to the original.

- James

If you have a look at the actual 1:1 trucks, you will see that they aren't turn indicators anyhow. They're actually just 'parking lights' or whatever they might be called elsewhere in the world.

If you wanted to make them look more like the original, just paint them pearl white :) I don't see what the fuss is about either :P

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If you have a look at the actual 1:1 trucks, you will see that they aren't turn indicators anyhow. They're actually just 'parking lights' or whatever they might be called elsewhere in the world.

Blah. I meant parking lights. Fixed.

- James

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Thank you to Tamiya again for allowing us to be kids at heart. Just yesterday I was out on the beach with the Sand Scorcher. Had a blast. Tomorrow I am heading to the mountains with my 3 Speed Hi-Lux (new version) for some play in the snow.

I don't know about the rest of you, body wise, my favourite is still the original hilux' side step bed.

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