Scania 470 or 620?

[Skottoman 306]

Hello,

Looking to get another truck to add to my "Hobby Store" in my basement for later build.

Question, I can get the Scania 470 or the 620 for about the same price. So what are the differences other than the 470 being 2 axle, and the 620 being 3 axle?

Is one better than the other for any reason? 470 smaller turning radius? 640 more weight towing? etc...

Thanks!

Skottoman

[backtomyroots 432]

Go for the R470 because I'd like to see a build thread.

Reason ? I have one with the MFU stored for a later build and would enjoy seeing someone else build it first to learn all the little "tricks & trials" .

[fatboyslim 11]

Scott get the 470 as you've already got a tri-axle truck

[Skottoman 306]

Scott get the 470 as you've already got a tri-axle truck

That's kind of what I was thinking, so R470 has been ORDERED! ... Just wondered what the differences were other than an additional axle?

[backtomyroots 432]

That's kind of what I was thinking, so R470 has been ORDERED! ... Just wondered what the differences were other than an additional axle?

Don't forget the MFU !

[gozone 30]

Yes Scott.. DO forget the MFU!!. (Get Servonaut-stuff for this one instead;) )

The idea in getting the R620 instead of the 470 is more wheels to get the power to the pavement.

You will discover this pretty quick if running outside, as the 470 has very close to NO weight on it´s drive axle, and therefore, getting it stuck quite often It CAN help with better tyres (a must anyway), adding weight inside the rear tyres, semi-locking the diff, and getting rid of the rear shocks, as they are simply making the articulation of the rear axle even worse..

Oh, and remember to reverse the front axle, and move the steering servo up front in your chassis when building it, for less turnbuckle-connection-slop.

Have fun.. Looking forward to see what you make of it.

Cheers.

Michael

[Skottoman 306]

Yes Scott.. DO forget the MFU!!. (Get Servonaut-stuff for this one instead;) )

The idea in getting the R620 instead of the 470 is more wheels to get the power to the pavement.

You will discover this pretty quick if running outside, as the 470 has very close to NO weight on it´s drive axle, and therefore, getting it stuck quite often It CAN help with better tyres (a must anyway), adding weight inside the rear tyres, semi-locking the diff, and getting rid of the rear shocks, as they are simply making the articulation of the rear axle even worse..

Oh, and remember to reverse the front axle, and move the steering servo up front in your chassis when building it, for less turnbuckle-connection-slop.

Have fun.. Looking forward to see what you make of it.

Cheers.

Michael

So if I did get the servonaut stuff, could you tell me exactly what to get?

A list perhaps?

Is this what I need? What about lights and vibrations?

- SMX

- M20+

[gozone 30]

Vibration units are not in the Servonaut-range..

The M20+ is a combined cruise-control ESC AND light set (low beam/high beam, blinker, hazard, brake and reverse lights), and the SMX-module is for sound, with 2 choices of 6-cylinder engines and 1 choice of V8 sound, with turbo. (As i recall, the 2 6-cylinder-modes are for MAN and Mercedes, while the V8 is Scania)

Along with this, you will need a speaker for the sound system.. Servonaut offers a 4 ohm and an 8 ohm unit for use with either 7,2 or 12 volt..

If you want rotating beacons also, you will need a BE8 module to control these..

But be warned. Once you have tried it, there is probably no way you´ll ever get a MFU again. At least, that´s usually what happens to people who try the stuff, and have had the MFU earlier.

[Skottoman 306]

Thanks for that info!

I am 100% sure I can build up a speaker box, so no worries about that.

Too bad about the lack of vibration unit, it's pretty cool to see!

Is there any specific place to order these 2 items from? (SMX M20+)?

After a look at the servonaut site, it appears I would need to purchase SMX, M20+, Front light harness, rear light harness.

Just that alone is almost $600!

Cheers,

Skottoman

[gozone 30]

Well, if you´re handy with a soldering iron, there is absolutely no need for any wiring harnesses at all. Just grab hold of a load of LED´s, some resistors and some thin cable, and you´re good to go.. If you´re running on 7,2 volts, the white LED´s will need resistors between 220 and 270 ohms. (I run 270 ohm on the low beam, and 220 on high beams for a little bit brighter light)..

The red and orange LED´s will require a 470 ohm resistor, but here, i sometimes use either 560 or 820 ohm resistors for the "normal" rear lights, and then settle for 470 for the braking lights, again, for slightly more brightness in these.

Also, European trucks usually have fully air suspended cabs, eliminating the need for any vibration-stuff in the cab.

Last summer, i had a run in one of the newest Scania R500´s, equipped with Opticruise gear shifting, which is basically a fully automated gearbox and clutch, so you just press the pedal. It also featured "hillhold", so no need to step on the brakes when waiting at a red light. I have to say that the Opticruise worked very well, and to really show it off, the Scania-guys had equipped the truck with a fully loaded 3-axle Schmitz-Cargobull gravel trailer, weighing about 40 tonnes, and it was a great drive indeed.

Anyway, back to the electrics.. On the bay, you can find all the types of LED´s you need for making up your own custom-lights, and for cable, i always use some very nice and thin 0,04 cable, found on the German ebay, which is perfect for wiring up LED´s inside a model, because they are available in lots of colours, making it easier to trace the different types of lights by the colour-coding you decide..

If you want to know ,i always order my Servonaut-stuff from a "local" Danish shop @ http://rcmodeltruck.dk/butik/

He also speaks English, ships abroad at apparantly good prices, and if you fancy it, you can join our Danish forum @ www.rcmodeltruck.dk

Most of us on there speaks English also, and you may find some useful info, as many of us run Servonaut.

Cheers..

Michael

[Skottoman 306]

Well, if you´re handy with a soldering iron, there is absolutely no need for any wiring harnesses at all. Just grab hold of a load of LED´s, some resistors and some thin cable, and you´re good to go.. If you´re running on 7,2 volts, the white LED´s will need resistors between 220 and 270 ohms. (I run 270 ohm on the low beam, and 220 on high beams for a little bit brighter light)..

The red and orange LED´s will require a 470 ohm resistor, but here, i sometimes use either 560 or 820 ohm resistors for the "normal" rear lights, and then settle for 470 for the braking lights, again, for slightly more brightness in these.

Also, European trucks usually have fully air suspended cabs, eliminating the need for any vibration-stuff in the cab.

Last summer, i had a run in one of the newest Scania R500´s, equipped with Opticruise gear shifting, which is basically a fully automated gearbox and clutch, so you just press the pedal. It also featured "hillhold", so no need to step on the brakes when waiting at a red light. I have to say that the Opticruise worked very well, and to really show it off, the Scania-guys had equipped the truck with a fully loaded 3-axle Schmitz-Cargobull gravel trailer, weighing about 40 tonnes, and it was a great drive indeed.

Anyway, back to the electrics.. On the bay, you can find all the types of LED´s you need for making up your own custom-lights, and for cable, i always use some very nice and thin 0,04 cable, found on the German ebay, which is perfect for wiring up LED´s inside a model, because they are available in lots of colours, making it easier to trace the different types of lights by the colour-coding you decide..

If you want to know ,i always order my Servonaut-stuff from a "local" Danish shop @ http://rcmodeltruck.dk/butik/

He also speaks English, ships abroad at apparantly good prices, and if you fancy it, you can join our Danish forum @ www.rcmodeltruck.dk

Most of us on there speaks English also, and you may find some useful info, as many of us run Servonaut.

Cheers..

Michael

Wow, thanks so much!

That's it! I'm moving to Denmark!

[gozone 30]

Moving here??

Well ,at the moment we are @ -8 degress celsius, with snow all over, and no real sign of it going away for atleast a little while.

Try to contact Bjarne from rcmodeltruck-shop, if you need help on Servonaut-products, or simply need to order some.

He´s a helpful guy, and he also has other goodies in his shop besides the Servonaut-stuff.

He just had surgery for a slipped disc a couple of days ago, but he should be able to respond to mails again.

Cheers..

Michael

[henrikw 0]

Moving here??

Well ,at the moment we are @ -8 degress celsius, with snow all over, and no real sign of it going away for atleast a little while.

Try to contact Bjarne from rcmodeltruck-shop, if you need help on Servonaut-products, or simply need to order some.

He´s a helpful guy, and he also has other goodies in his shop besides the Servonaut-stuff.

He just had surgery for a slipped disc a couple of days ago, but he should be able to respond to mails again.

Cheers..

Michael

Michael, NO snow in Copenhagen :'( But it's still cold.

I can also recomend rc-modeltruck shop AND servonaut. I unfortunately sold my M20+, thinking that I would add a brushless system, boy have I regredded it ever since! I'm going for a M20+ again but no SMX (Using a Beier USM-RC). It's tricky to get to work and also tricky to get the Servonaut and Berier stuff working togheter, but has more options regarding the sound, it's fully costumizable.

Have a nice build!