Hawk312 4 Posted February 7, 2012 For as much as these things flip over and get thrown around, you would have thought they would`ve used steel reinforced body mounts for these things. I am going through the mounts quite quickly. What are you guys doing to replace these? Thanks Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BennySRB 0 Posted February 7, 2012 ebay item 370532805278 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wolfdogstinkus 1893 Posted February 7, 2012 Wont the metal body mounts crack the body if you land hard on the roof? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
speedy_w_beans 4272 Posted February 7, 2012 I've seen others use knitting needles to cross brace the tub and also act as body mounts... I run a Parma lexan shell, so it flexes a lot when tumbling and rolling... Haven't broken a single plastic body mount yet. -Paul Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KalEl63 695 Posted February 7, 2012 Wont the metal body mounts crack the body if you land hard on the roof? You could argue this but I think if it breaks/Cracks it was a hard hit anyway. I got sick of breaking mounts so I have the aluminium ones now (Model Build ones)and they are fantastic Oh and a cracked body too Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BennySRB 0 Posted February 7, 2012 I use the Parma lexan shell as speedy does and have no problem with the mounts breaking. I'm not sure about the hard body cracking with the alloy mounts, cant imagine it would though. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KalEl63 695 Posted February 7, 2012 I don't think my cracked body came because of me changing to better body mounts.... hitting a tree at full speed (8.5T brushless) may have something to do with that Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mr crispy 2293 Posted February 7, 2012 I ditched my standard VLB body mounts and using spare servo mounts fitted a square inch of plasticard onto the chassis and covered it in velcro. Then I stuck the oppersite side of the velcro to the inside of the bodyshell and hey presto no more cracked mounts. The velcro is more than capable of holding the body inplace and also allows a little give when it rolls. When i get around the repainting the body I'll fill in the old screw holes to clean of the side body panels. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
hotshot boy 0 Posted February 8, 2012 just made my own out of ali plate and they work fine.. the body does cop a hiding but as KalEl63 knows they do anyways with a 9t brushless in it... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Max Power 5 Posted February 8, 2012 I used part 13 from the A Parts tree. I tapered the shaft down a bit, and used a hot metal skewer to punch a hole for the body pin. I suggest using a nut a bolt to secure them to the chassis, as the self tappers will back out fairly quickly. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Yello 6 Posted February 8, 2012 A copy-paste of a previous post of mine from another thread: I always cringe on the inside when I read about a person buying those aluminum body mounts for their LB. I read too often about the chassis itself breaking with the alloy mounts, which makes perfect sense. The best body mount mod for the LB, IMO, is the one endorsed in this video: I was able to get the F1 aluminum mounts for 6 bucks total, and then I had to purchase the L-brackets at a local hardware store, which cost me about a dollar. The mod is superior, imo, because the L-brackets are softer metal and can and will bend on a bad impact. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mr crispy 2293 Posted February 8, 2012 A copy-paste of a previous post of mine from another thread:I always cringe on the inside when I read about a person buying those aluminum body mounts for their LB. I read too often about the chassis itself breaking with the alloy mounts, which makes perfect sense. The best body mount mod for the LB, IMO, is the one endorsed in this video: I was able to get the F1 aluminum mounts for 6 bucks total, and then I had to purchase the L-brackets at a local hardware store, which cost me about a dollar. The mod is superior, imo, because the L-brackets are softer metal and can and will bend on a bad impact. A good mod but the music was BAD and WFT have they done to that Wild Willy seen at the end of the clip 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
matman 1499 Posted February 8, 2012 I don't think my cracked body came because of me changing to better body mounts.... hitting a tree at full speed (8.5T brushless) may have something to do with that " No " , I'm sure that's not the problem . 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Butler 338 Posted February 8, 2012 I put M3 or M4 threaded bar across the whole chassis and poking out just a few mm either side then secured with wheel nuts. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mantanz 2 Posted January 11, 2015 Funny, unlike other here I have broken body mounts WITH my Parma polycarbonate body. lol. I'm thinking of getting the metal ones but if it hit hard, they'd likely just cut through the body instead of breaking, right? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cragsta 2 Posted February 11, 2015 Search for jk-rc on ebay. He does midnight pumpkin body mounts. top bloke! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kontemax 1725 Posted February 12, 2015 The music is fantastic!!! Max A good mod but the music was BAD and WFT have they done to that Wild Willy seen at the end of the clip Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mongoose1983 3335 Posted February 12, 2015 For as much as these things flip over and get thrown around, you would have thought they would`ve used steel reinforced body mounts for these things. I am going through the mounts quite quickly. What are you guys doing to replace these? Thanks I'm still amazed by the fact that very few TCers here have addressed the Lunchbox bodymount breakage issue properly. This is a problem that you can not solve by using metal body posts, because when landing the vehicle over its roof, or hitting the sides in the not-so-unusual rollovers these things tend to make, they only cause the main shell to come up seriously cracked. And this is not a problem of choosing what do you want to replace first, bodyshell or bodyposts, but how to make both of them last much longer after hard runs. The problem with the design is simple. 100% of the weight of the bodyshell --which is NOT light by any consideration-- lays on the tips of bodyposts alone. And not only that, the bodyshell is constantly pressing against the bodyclips even when the truck is standing alright with its four wheels on the ground. If you guys use a pair of bent aluminum extensions as a support to maintain the weight bodyshell not completely on the bodyposts you will end up having a much more durable bodyshell AND bodyposts. See, everytime you roll your Lunchbox is like hitting hard & directly the tip of your bodyposts, causing the breakings we all know and hate. If you give that shell some points of support believe me the story will be different Oh, and by the way, not a fan of the music either, but I do believe it is a nice video and I appreciate you guys discussing issues like these that for decades have been a problem for the owners and lovers of the fantastic and super-fun RC vehicle that the Lunch Box is. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mastino 1085 Posted February 12, 2015 Hi there, this is my "solution" for the front 3mm dia of alu, used as a stiffener and as a support body. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Flerbizky 225 Posted February 16, 2015 So far, I've managed to crack the glass piece, but not the body posts. @mastino - I'm stealing that idea once I do break them though (: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites