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Dimsum

This is my Lunchbox. There are many others like it, but this one is mine...

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Hello Tamiyaclubbers and fellow Lunchboxers! I just completed my 1st LB build yesterday. Nothing special added just yet, except some sealed bearings for the wheels and one for the counter gear. I have some oil dampers on the way, which should be arriving on Monday. On my list of mods are the usual chassis stabilizing bar/front body mount combo, 5th/3rd damper for the gearbox, and tweak the rear shocks outward. I did the typical "box art" paint job, and got bored of it, so I picked up a Parma Lexan body. Mostly to play around on to get comfortable with painting them so I can really rock out a sweet rolling, tumbling, crashing work of art. I expected the shell to be a bit more difficult to cut out/paint, but it was a breeze! Time to dust off my airbrush and really get busy lol! I plan to strip it and re-paint it on a monthly basis, assuming the shell doesn't get to chewed up. Here's my first attempt with a quick 1 hr job start to finish. Sorry for the low quality iPhone pics. I'll get some better ones before the shell gets trashed (hopefully).

6859988485_8ecc04ed92_z.jpg

Some noob questions: 1.The red plug from the ESC that goes to the "battery" port on the receiver only has holes in the plug for two of the three prongs in the receiver port, yet it still works fine. Is that normal?

2. Any recommendations for a LED kit for the Lunchbox?

3. I have a TH TS-64 Standard High-Torque 2BB Servo U , is it worth installing, or should I hold onto it in case something happens to the servo I have installed now?

4. Which parts, aside from body mounts, break first/most? I dont want to have any down time waiting for parts to come in the mail lol

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Gee , wish i could do a paint job like that . Very nice job .

Some noob questions: 1.The red plug from the ESC that goes to the "battery" port on the receiver only has holes in the plug for two of the three prongs in the receiver port, yet it still works fine. Is that normal? <<<<< YES as it's only for power .

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Apart from the body mounts, the body and window are the things most likely to die in a crash. Otherwise, it's pretty indestructible. If you clip a curb and/or parked car just right you can trash a front axle upright, bend a steering link or bust the servo saver - or do all of the above, all at once, but only if you are lucky like that.

And yes, I did it - looked away for an instant (but didn't bother to lift the throttle - duh) and then looked back just in time to see the Lunchbox clip the curb at a really nasty angle which broke the steering parts, go airborne, bounce once {breaking more steering parts I think, but can't be sure} and wedge itself awkwardly under my 17" truck tire breaking yet more parts including the body and window.

Takes some talent, but you can do it. :lol:

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Very nice paint job! How did you get such crisp lines with an airbrush?

Some answers to your questions:

1) Yes, the power plug only makes contact with 2 out of 3 pins in the BAT position of your radio receiver. The third unused pin doesn't do anything.

2) I don't have any specific LED lighting suggestions, but it's not that difficult to do something yourself. A pair of LEDs, some resistors, and some hookup wire will give you headlights pretty easily.

3) Does your ball bearing, high torque servo have a platic shaft or a metal shaft? I've snapped a few plastic shafts on Futaba S3003 servos with the Lunch Box, so a metal shaft servo would definitely survive better.

4) A suggested list of parts:

- If you're running a Parma lexan shell, don't worry about the body mounts. I've yet to break mine with a Parma shell.

- I've broken one front wheel after a particularly bad hit with a fence; the part of wheel where the bearings press in cracked and then the wheel was crooked.

- I've gone through several front shock lower spring perches/connectors (part D12). At first I was buying extra parts trees for these parts, but then I took a different approach (taken from my post in 'Your favorite Tamiya runner at the moment' thread):

"Like you, I've gone through a few front shock bottoms (the parts that connect to the suspension arms). After I ordered one or two Lunch Box D parts trees for just the shock bottoms, I came up with a different way to repair these due to cost. First I remove the broken shock bottom and dremel off the connector, leaving a flat spring support. Then I remove the nut from the shock shaft and thread the flat spring support all the way up in its place. Finally, I have several X and V parts trees left over from DT02, DF02, DF03, TT01, etc. kits, so I thread X1 or V1 connectors onto the shock shafts underneath the spring supports. The end result looks very much like the original shock bottoms, but the type of plastic used for the X and V parts trees is less brittle than the plastic used in the D parts tree. So far so good, I haven't broken any X1/V1 parts and they haven't pulled off the shafts... The cost of buying X parts trees (if I ever need any more) will be half as much as buying a set of Lunch Box D parts ($4.50 vs. $11.00)."

- Windows are a non-issue if you're running the Parma shell, but with the standard hard body I've destroyed one windshield.

- Extra servo savers would be good; I've broken two or three.

- A metal shaft servo would be better than a plastic shaft servo; I've had to replace the plastic output shaft in a Futaba S3003 a few times.

I guess most of the damage has been done at the front end of the Lunch Box; the chassis and rear gearbox are pretty bullet proof.

-Paul

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Thanks for the replies and feedback guys - much appreciated!

The artwork was done with spraypaint and paint markers, I plan to use the airbrush on my new paint job for a more realistic graffiti effect.

I will keep stock of the parts you mentioned Paul - thanks for the input!

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I wish I had a friend like you. That's an awesome paint job.

Here's a tip: Buy Shoe Goo or Amazing Goop immediately. You'll want to fortify your Parma shell because it will break and seperate and tear. Not a question of IF, but WHEN. You'll also need to buy some drywall mesh tape. Just tape up the inside everywhere and slather on a layer of that goop and have it dry. Simple. There's really nothing complicated about it.

This practice is used to repair tears as well as well as to prevent tears, and lots of people say it works great.

I've got it in on but haven't run the LB extensively yet.

In the very least clear tape up the inside by the rear wheel wells. If you run a good motor in your LB lots of gravel and dirt kick up in that area and will abrade the paint in that area over a few runs.

Anyway, my Parma developed like 6 major tears. But those tears weren't substantial to make the body useless so now everything seems fixed with the goo.

Not a question of IF, man. WHEN. :)

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Thanks Yello - that makes a lot of sense. I have a tube of shoe goo kicking around somewhere from my skateboarding career days lol. The only concern I would have is the weight it would add to the shell, but the stock body is really heavy compared to the parma body, so I guess it's all good. Thanks again

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Love that shell!

The LB (and MP) are great little trucks, loads of fun while not being serious.

I purchased a set of rear shock mounts off ebay, to hold the dampers out more, fitted them but never ran it, and when I did run it they snapped more or less straight away, really gutted.

With a bit off messing around you can get the dampers to sit better with the origional mounts.

If your in the UK, maplins sell 12v LEDs for full size cars, pack of 4 for £6 made by a company called prism.

Ive got 2 white and 2 red on my LB and runn them off 4 AA's and there nice and bright. A little piece of plasticard or even a dab of glue will hold the LEDs in the front lights on the origional shell.

Should be able to get something similar or exactly the same from any car shop really.

Put a dab of glue on the head light lenses if you run the origional, ive lost a couple of them before now.

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Thanks for the replies and feedback guys - much appreciated!

The artwork was done with spraypaint and paint markers, I plan to use the airbrush on my new paint job for a more realistic graffiti effect.

I will keep stock of the parts you mentioned Paul - thanks for the input!

Great result - which paint markers did you use?

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Maplin are a scandalous rip imho - a pack of 5 white 12v leds is available on fleabay for £1.20, I think posting links here is a no-no but if you're willing to learn to solder then I dare say Technobots (where I get my stuff) would be able to furnish everything you need for a comprehensive led system for a few pounds.

I've been toying with putting an Arduino type microcontroller in my VLB for a while, I'm sure that with a bit of ingenuity, tinkering and blue smoke that things like working brake/reverse lights, switchable headlights and even a horn/siren/claxon are possible. I've also looked at a similar arrangement in one of my other ideas, a 4x4x4 vehicle (that would have basically been two M03 front ends bolted together) that would have had speed related variable steering, it never happened because I couldn't justify the purchase of a dual-motor esc, but I still have the groundwork I did on it saved up for a better idea to come along.

All in all, the most important skill an RC'er can learn is how to solder, not only can you make your own cool stuff - you can save yourself a fortune that would otherwise be paid out to your LHS on repairs etc.

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Maplin are a scandalous rip imho - a pack of 5 white 12v leds is available on fleabay for £1.20, I think posting links here is a no-no but if you're willing to learn to solder then I dare say Technobots (where I get my stuff) would be able to furnish everything you need for a comprehensive led system for a few pounds.

I've been toying with putting an Arduino type microcontroller in my VLB for a while, I'm sure that with a bit of ingenuity, tinkering and blue smoke that things like working brake/reverse lights, switchable headlights and even a horn/siren/claxon are possible.

I dont agree with Maplins prices on many of there products, the leds are prewired and fitted with a resistor, super bright and a pack of 4 for £5.99 where most car part shops sell them around £4.99 - £6.99 so maplins are bang in the middle. I find it far easier to go to maplins, select items, pay & leave.

As for the Arduino controller, and Im not one to dis any ones projects, its a lunchbox, its as serious as a fart in a jacuzzi, surely the cost of the controller, lights, and other odds & sods would be better thrown at a crawler/scaler or even a semi?

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give RevolutionShop on e bay a look . They do a fully functional led lighting set for around £9.50 delivered . All you need to do is make up some light pods .

these are 5v and run off the throttle servo feed via a y lead .

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As for the Arduino controller, and Im not one to dis any ones projects, its a lunchbox, its as serious as a fart in a jacuzzi, surely the cost of the controller, lights, and other odds & sods would be better thrown at a crawler/scaler or even a semi?

Just an idea I had, It's just something that suits a body with a decent level of detail (not to mention headlight buckets) - to be honest' I'm surprised that no-one on the scaler scene has thought of it before. I built my own controller on a piece of veroboard for less than a fiver, all I need now is a VLB that doesn't throw it's self on it's roof the moment it sniffs a corner :angry:.

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Thanks for the LED suggestion Bromvw^^

Anyone have a good alternative mod for the stock battery retainer? Mine broke today at the joint with the screw........I used electrical tape to fatten up the end of the battery to keep it from slipping out, but I'm looking for a better fix lol.

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Great result - which paint markers did you use?

I used Deco Color and Evolve by 004connec paint markers. The base coat is Evolve spraypaint (made for graffiti artists), great stuff and great color range

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If I wanted to replace the stock front knuckles with these Junfac Aluminum Knuckles, how would I go about getting the axle out of the stock knuckles? Cut them out?

Don't they push out or a light press out ? . As it was the pin that was holding it together , with the grub screw .

Not to sure on the new type if they are the same .

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Don't they push out or a light press out ? . As it was the pin that was holding it together , with the grub screw .

Not to sure on the new type if they are the same .

You're right, they should just twist off. I would suggest screwing a wheel nut on the axle, clamp the nut in a vice (No damage to axle that way) and then twist the plastic as if trying to tighten the nut, then lift slightly. Once the plastic starts to move, it should come off relatively easily. (As they say in the Haynes manual :o )

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Thanks for the suggestions/comments about the knuckles. I wish they were shipping from somewhere in the states Im getting anxious to get those knuckles and the adjustable axle mount hooked up. I'm probably going to scoop up a set of the Junfac 12mm wheel wideners so I can throw some decent dirt tires on my LB too. So far I've only upgraded the bearings and installed a knitting needle chassis brace / body mount mod. I switch out my old servo for a Futaba s3305 high torque servo, what a difference! My oil shocks should be here this week, as well as a sport tuned 540 motor. I ordered a Mud Blaster II and a Mad Bull over the weekend to add to my quickly growing collection of Tamiya kits, hopefully they wont distract me too much from my LB mission. I started a new paint job, some warm colors for a base, not sure yet whats going to happen with the rest of the paint job. I'll post pics as it progresses.

6773398998_215e980dbc_z.jpg

Anyone know a good alternative to the stock LunchBox pinion gear?

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I like both the lunchbox shells. I like the maroon one above this post a lot. Cool how you added the orange "L" to it. Great stuff!

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I just hooked up some aluminum knuckles and the adjustable axle mount. The axles were a breeze to pop out of the old knuckles.

Now I'm on a mission to find a pinion gear upgrade - does anyone know where I could find one?

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