Taman 3 Posted February 20, 2012 I'm thinking of painting my R91Cp flat black and was going to use the PS-55 Flat Clear to turn it matt. Has anyone used this? Apparently you paint the outside of the body, is it durable? I would have thought you would paint the inside with it first, then paint over it. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
B.M.T. 127 Posted February 20, 2012 If you paint it on the inside, the lexan is still glossy on the outside Actually, it's quite good. Anything that will scratch the body will scratch it too, but in general it does it's job. Just use lots of light coats and remember to mask your windows. You even can use the protective film for this. Cut around the windows or anything else you need to be glossy with a hobby knife and remove the rest of the film. Some examples: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
c_a_r_t_e_r 0 Posted February 20, 2012 Yes, I've used it and it works great. Body colour on the inside, flat clear on the outside. I re-made the window masks, but that's a great tip to use the masking film instead, will do that next time! Paint seems pretty durable. http://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.a...2&sid=32593 Cheers, Tim. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Taman 3 Posted February 21, 2012 Thanks for the info guys, appreciate it Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lawdog 23 Posted February 21, 2012 Can you safely apply it to a coat of paint on the outside? I was think of painting the inside of the car a metallic silver with some rust, then the outside black with the flat top coat for a beater-type look. Then, as the black is scratched/knocked off, the metal underneath would come through. I have seen some tutorials on how to do this, but most just use a matte color on the outside. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ralphee 293 Posted February 21, 2012 Just a query, but, have any of you guys tried keying the OUTSIDE of the polycarb, after, painting. I dont mean get all 180 grit on it, but, i use finest grade Oakey pads, to key the inside of my shells, before i paint. This leaves it just dull, still smooth, no scratches, just dulled, just kinda wondered, if it would work in reverse, the key would be using a SUPER fine grade of sanding pad, or, maybe even a paint cutting agent and a polishing cloth? Just thought it may be more durable than an exterior coat that could chip leaving gloss marks? lee Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sayer 742 Posted February 21, 2012 Just a query, but, have any of you guys tried keying the OUTSIDE of the polycarb, after, painting. I dont mean get all 180 grit on it, but, i use finest grade Oakey pads, to key the inside of my shells, before i paint.This leaves it just dull, still smooth, no scratches, just dulled, just kinda wondered, if it would work in reverse, the key would be using a SUPER fine grade of sanding pad, or, maybe even a paint cutting agent and a polishing cloth? Just thought it may be more durable than an exterior coat that could chip leaving gloss marks? lee Or put the the hottest brushless you can find in it. That'll certainly "dull" the gloss on your bodyshell. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bromvw 744 Posted February 21, 2012 If you paint it on the inside, the lexan is still glossy on the outside Actually, it's quite good. Anything that will scratch the body will scratch it too, but in general it does it's job. Just use lots of light coats and remember to mask your windows. You even can use the protective film for this. Cut around the windows or anything else you need to be glossy with a hobby knife and remove the rest of the film. Some examples: whats that body in photo 3 buddie ? Looks ideal for a project i have in mind . Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WillyChang 1814 Posted February 29, 2012 Just a query, but, have any of you guys tried keying the OUTSIDE of the polycarb, after, painting. I dont mean get all 180 grit on it, but, i use finest grade Oakey pads, to key the inside of my shells, before i paint.This leaves it just dull, still smooth, no scratches, just dulled, just kinda wondered, if it would work in reverse, the key would be using a SUPER fine grade of sanding pad, or, maybe even a paint cutting agent and a polishing cloth? Just thought it may be more durable than an exterior coat that could chip leaving gloss marks? yeah u can scuff the shiny lexan with a scourer, just the green kitchen potscrubber pads will do. But its a lot of work and you often get swirl marks, also hard to do evenly on a curved surface. Alternative is to sandblast @ low pressure with a gentle media eg walnut or dryice PS55 is much easier; if you do manage to scratch off PS paint don't worry - exposed lexan will be anything but glossy Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Taman 3 Posted February 29, 2012 Well I decided to try it and I'm happy with the results. I sprayed over the decals aswell. It looks really good and seems to be pretty strong. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kevin_Mc 411 Posted February 29, 2012 that looks stunning! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TWINSET 1793 Posted February 29, 2012 whats that body in photo 3 buddie ? Looks ideal for a project i have in mind . Proline Recon, released in 2008 though, and long-since discontinued http://www.cmldistribution.co.uk/cml_produ...ctId=0000003582 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bromvw 744 Posted February 29, 2012 Proline Recon, released in 2008 though, and long-since discontinued http://www.cmldistribution.co.uk/cml_produ...ctId=0000003582 Thats a shame because it looks to be exactly what i was after for a all terrain amphib i was thinking about . Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
