Speaking of DB01 Diffs..

[JeepnMike 150]

While I was replacing my spur gear I decided to give my rear diff a good rebuild. I found that the glue I had been using for the diff plates apparently came loose and my pulley and bearings were cooked. While I started shopping for replacement parts I am realizing that there is even more options than before. What are you guys running for differentials that regularly race or drive your DB01s? It looks like I have the following options:

1. Replace all tore up parts with stock.

2. TRF Diff joints, that way I don't have to worry about the diff plates having the glue come apart, and run the stock pulley.

3. TRF has a new (well, I didn't know about it) gear diff. Looking at the pic I am thorougly confused because the gears look plastic and if it is supposed to hold oil, i dont see a housing. See it here: http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXBPHL

4. 3 Racing Diff Joints with stock pulley and bearings.

That is all I can think of. I am intruiged by the TRF gear diff, but don't know anything about it. After thinking I am taking great care of my stuff and seeing a cooked diff, I am definitely thinking I want some durability. I really don't care how much this stuff costs.

Any advice is much appreciated!!

[stu22 12]

The housing is the white plastic piece farthest to the right, it just happens to be flipped over.

I'd just rebuild the thing back to stock and put a 1-way in the front.

[speedy_w_beans 4272]

I've stayed stock so far. On one DB01 and one DB01R, both the rear diffs had the plates come loose after the rubber cement softened. I just cleaned everything out thoroughly, scuffed one side of the diff plates with sand paper, scuffed the plastic part that holds the diff plate, cleaned with rubbing alcohol, and glued with rubber cement a second time. Everything has been good since then. I didn't have the meltdown or bearing issues you described; I just noticed that the car was down on power. When I dragged one set of tires against the pavement while holding the other set by hand, I could feel the slip. Removing the diff covers didn't reveal any damage, but I found the rubber cement had liquified and the plates weren't really transferring torque to the joints anymore.

I'm too cheap to get the TRF diff joints right now, but that would be the ultimate solution if money was no object. I'm not too keen on plastic gears in a sealed gear diff.

-Paul

[Yello 6]

I hope my diffs don't melt and that the vulcanizing fluid (rubber cement) that I used to glue the plastic to the metal plates will prove to be a good adhesive. *crossing fingers*

What I noticed is that the metal plates were coated in some sort of packing oil. Very lightly. So I used brake parts cleaner to clean it off.

I'm guessing those who build the DB01 don't all properly degrease those metal plates before they install.

Jeep N Mike, if you ever use the TRF joint (and I didn't know about it either, and that's after reading two extremely long threads about the DB01 at other forums), let us know how it holds up or works for you as I'd be interested in the item as well.

Good luck!

[JeepnMike 150]

Thanks for the replies guys. Looking at the TRF diff joints closer, they still use the rings, they just don't get glued, rather they are sort of seated with grease. They should be better but I am trying to decide if it is even worth it. If the only benefit is not having to glue the plates (other than strength) I am not certain it is worth it really. I hate the K4 plastic cup the bolt sits in to tighten the diff down and if the TRF differentials were to eliminate that, I would have bought them. I just found out by looking at the TRF manual that it still uses the plastic nut retainer (I think mine was spinning in that when I was tightening it).

Good thing I am not in a hurry, I can't make up my mind on this one. LOL. I have found a few US sellers to replace the melted pulley so I have an easy-out. I am going to take apart my front diff tonight to see what I find. I actually haven't taken the front apart before.. It has always worked fine. In case that ones is messed up too, I might as well buy all the junk for that at the same time.

BTW, I used shoe goo (the brand) on my diff rings. It clearly didn't hold. LOL. I will be using CA Super Glue this time if I don't get TRF diffs.

Thanks again!

[94eg! 834]

Man. I've never had my diffs apart as I bought the car used. I wonder how they are holding. I always thought it was poor idea when Tamiya moved away from the "Keyed" style diff rings on the previous generation of cars (like 415 & DF03).

[JeepnMike 150]

Man. I've never had my diffs apart as I bought the car used. I wonder how they are holding. I always thought it was poor idea when Tamiya moved away from the "Keyed" style diff rings on the previous generation of cars (like 415 & DF03).

I took apart my front diff over the weekend and it looks like the rubber cement was barely holding on. I am with you, I wish the diff rings were keyed for sure. At least I only need to replace the spur gear on the rear. I will definitely be using CA glue on them this time.