Painting hard bodies - yes I searched - please help

[3speeder]

I have an original mountaineer body that I'm getting ready to re-paint again because the first time it wrinkled. I must have used enamels with laquers or something. Anyway, I what to paint this tamiya body using mica red TS-39.

Can I use duplicolor sandable primer - then tamiya TS-39 - then duplicolor T125 clear?

I think the tamiya TS paints are laquer, and the duplicolor primers and clears laquer based too?

I have tried searching on here and google but can not find anyone that can give me a positive yes that it will work, can someone provide some feedback or show some step by step to get those beautiful finishes.

It's taking me so much work to get this body back to a point where its almost ready for paint, infact its been apart for abour 3-4 years waiting to get finished. My plan is to finish my mountaineer, hilux, blazing blazer and my extra bruiser body this spring so they are done and ready to sit on the shelf and collect dust.

Tim

[Sayer]

I have an original mountaineer body that I'm getting ready to re-paint again because the first time it wrinkled. I must have used enamels with laquers or something. Anyway, I what to paint this tamiya body using mica red TS-39.

Can I use duplicolor sandable primer - then tamiya TS-39 - then duplicolor T125 clear?

I think the tamiya TS paints are laquer, and the duplicolor primers and clears laquer based too?

I have tried searching on here and google but can not find anyone that can give me a positive yes that it will work, can someone provide some feedback or show some step by step to get those beautiful finishes.

It's taking me so much work to get this body back to a point where its almost ready for paint, infact its been apart for abour 3-4 years waiting to get finished. My plan is to finish my mountaineer, hilux, blazing blazer and my extra bruiser body this spring so they are done and ready to sit on the shelf and collect dust.

Tim

I'd stick with Tamiya (or Duplicolor) for all the paints. Mixing them might not be a good idea. When I was painting my MU, I did a test of Duplicolor clear over Tamiya TS-8 and the Duplicolor made the Tamiya paint all runny and essentially washed it off.

Some tips in the following threads:

http://www.tamiyaclub.com/forum/index.php?...25&start=25

http://www.tamiyaclub.com/forum/index.php?...utomotive+paint

http://www.tamiyaclub.com/forum/index.php?...utomotive+paint

[bromvw]

I have always used automotive paints on hard sheels . Make sure their acrylic based . Tamiya paint is good quality but for the same price per can you get twice the amount . Work as you would with a 1/1 car ie flat sand , then primer than top coats flating between coats . Leave it at least a week after the final colour coat and then wet sand and clear coat . Leave that a week again and cut using compound . Its a lot of work but you'll end up with a finish you'll be proud of .

[TongueTied]

Go to your LHS and buy some sheets of plastic (ABS or Polycarbonate) . I'm not sure what type the Mountaineer was made from but get the same type. You will often find it hanging on a rack near the trains section. Cut that stuff into squares and test out the combinations of primer, paint and clear you are thinking of using. Try different paints as well to see which gives the best result. Also, devise a few tests to ensure you are using a combination that is going to look great but fall off or chip easily (this is why I wouldn't go with acrylics unless they are automotive acrylics). I suggest you subject each test square to at least a scratch test and a bend/flex test. Here is where I disagree with many of my TC mates. Take your time when doing the prep work and painting and do lots of testing. I realise this seems like a lot of palaver when all you want is to get the thing painted and driving but if you want a good paint job, testing out your solution first really pays off in the end. Just imagine priming, sanding, painting a detailed paint job only to have a reaction during the clear stage. You will find a lot of people will push you to "just get Halfords paint and you will be fine" but when you put two cars side by side, you can always tell the guy who took the time with his paint job and the guy who just sprayed it on.

[bromvw]

lol my average paint job takes at least a month . AS SAID take your time . Good prep and ensuring the shell is 100% clean between coats is the best advice . I do use Halfords paint but its hardly a case of just spraying it on . Its taken a lot of trial and error to learn how to do it correctly . Test sheets are a must .

[3speeder]

Thanks guys, I'm going to try duplicolor sandable primer and then tamiya mica red on a busted up bruiser bed that I have to see how it does.

[3speeder]

Finally had time to get this in paint. I used duplicolor white sandable primer and two cans of TS-39 mica red. It turned out good, I did several light coats of the mica red. The mica red over the white primer doesn't look as dark as I thought, almost looks like the box art color.

I'm going to let all the parts sit for a week or two before I do anything else. I'm thinking about a few coats of clear but I'm a little nervous to clear anything after getting the body to this point. Last time I tried to clear something the paint wrinkled. If I use tamiya clear over the tamiya mica red is there a chance it will wrinkle?

[3speeder]

a few pictures

IMAG0489

IMAG0488

IMAG0487

[bromvw]

a few pictures

IMAG0489

IMAG0488

IMAG0487

i think you'll be ok with the clear coat . So long as the base colour is fully cured it will be fine . The rule of thumb i use is to ensure that the clear you use is from the same manufacturer . tamiya over tamiya will be ok .

[3speeder]

Can I clear coat over the body without wed sanding it first? The paint is clean and smooth, its just a little dull in spots.

[OCD]

Can I clear coat over the body without wed sanding it first? The paint is clean and smooth, its just a little dull in spots.

You can clear coat over it without wet sanding first, but be aware that it will only conform to the surface it is painted onto, so the final product will always have the same texture as the base coat underneath.

Also, if you decide to wet sand, be very careful not to sand through your base coat on corners and sharper edges. This can be very easy to do if you don't have a very thick base coat laid down to begin with.

[bromvw]

And what about decals? Would you clear coat first then apply the decals and clear coat again or would you apply the decals once the paint has cured and then clear coat over them?

I guess you'd need to test a decal too, see if the clear coat affects it as i am sure i have read of this happening especially with vintage decals?

Do a test first . You should be ok but there's no point in spoiling a good paint job . I've cleared over stickers but you can get reactions depending on the decal .

[3speeder]

You can clear coat over it without wet sanding first, but be aware that it will only conform to the surface it is painted onto, so the final product will always have the same texture as the base coat underneath.

Also, if you decide to wet sand, be very careful not to sand through your base coat on corners and sharper edges. This can be very easy to do if you don't have a very thick base coat laid down to begin with.

I don't want to wet sand and burn throught the paint. The paint is very smooth but just dull from painting several light coats, I never did one heavy coat to build up a shine. I might pick up a can of tamiya clear and put a few coats on and see how it looks.

[WillyChang]

you have to decide what finish you want - glossy smooth or not... there is no room for half-measures once cleared.

imho the Mica colours usually don't dry glossy, there's a rougher orangepeel finish

also if you've painted in a cold environment it'll come out more matte

looks like you've got a few splatter lumps? albeit small... if you don't flat these down, will be more noticeable once glossy

[3speeder]

you have to decide what finish you want - glossy smooth or not... there is no room for half-measures once cleared.

imho the Mica colours usually don't dry glossy, there's a rougher orangepeel finish

also if you've painted in a cold environment it'll come out more matte

looks like you've got a few splatter lumps? albeit small... if you don't flat these down, will be more noticeable once glossy

I started to wet sand the bed last night with 1000 grit sand paper. It seems like there was not enough paint on the bed. I going to pick up another can on mica red and give the bed and cab two more coats.

This will probably be the last body I use tamiya paints on, the paint is to thin, coasts to much money and you need several cans to just to get a few coats on there. My hilux and blazing blazer will get automotive paint.

[Sayer]

I started to wet sand the bed last night with 1000 grit sand paper. It seems like there was not enough paint on the bed. I going to pick up another can on mica red and give the bed and cab two more coats.

This will probably be the last body I use tamiya paints on, the paint is to thin, coasts to much money and you need several cans to just to get a few coats on there. My hilux and blazing blazer will get automotive paint.

*shrug* I think Tamiya paints are worth it for ease of use. I used two cans to paint my Jugg2 and two cans to paint my MU (once I stopped screwing up) Also, since automotive paint comes in larger cans, I now have to figure out how to dispose of a mostly full can of paint and automotive clear I'll likely never use again.

[bromvw]

*shrug* I think Tamiya paints are worth it for ease of use. I used two cans to paint my Jugg2 and two cans to paint my MU (once I stopped screwing up) Also, since automotive paint comes in larger cans, I now have to figure out how to dispose of a mostly full can of paint and automotive clear I'll likely never use again.

DONT CHUCK IT . it comes in very handy when repairing any 'incidents' . I just hope my workshop never catchs fire because it will be like the 4th July with all the spray cans i have in there .

[3speeder]

I bought one more can of mica red and this time I warmed it up first, what a huge difference this made. I gave the cab two more coats and the bad three more coats. On the last coat for both I was able to build up a gloss with the paint. It looked great but when the paint dried it was a little dull. Overall I'm happy with the final result. I've had this body apart for about 5-6 years trying to find time to paint it. I will detail it this winter when I get time again. Now I need to try and get my two hilux bodies, blazing blazer body and one more bruiser body in paint.

IMAG0493

IMAG0494

[Skottoman]

That looks great. I would totally clear coat that after it dries for a week.

I've used Testors Wet Coat Clear over Tamiya TS AND PS paints on hard plastic shells.

If you're afraid to mess it up, you could always just let it dry for a week or more, and then use rubbing compound and a good automotive wax.

Nice work!

Cheers,

Skottoman

[bromvw]

That looks great. I would totally clear coat that after it dries for a week.

I've used Testors Wet Coat Clear over Tamiya TS AND PS paints on hard plastic shells.

If you're afraid to mess it up, you could always just let it dry for a week or more, and then use rubbing compound and a good automotive wax.

Nice work!

Cheers,

Skottoman

+1. Even a poor paint job can be saved with rubbing compound and wax .

[3speeder]

+1. Even a poor paint job can be saved with rubbing compound and wax .

Thanks guys, I think it turned out good. Any special rubbing compound you recommend?

[nosthevamp]

Brasso works well.

I've bought a tin of Tamiya Metalic red to do an old mud blaster body I'd stripped the old paint off, Will it be enough, for just a covering coat? nothing fastic wanted, its just a basher I made up from old parts i collected on an old frog chassis.

[3speeder]

Brasso works well.

I've bought a tin of Tamiya Metalic red to do an old mud blaster body I'd stripped the old paint off, Will it be enough, for just a covering coat? nothing fastic wanted, its just a basher I made up from old parts i collected on an old frog chassis.

I think one can should do it, warm it up in warm water first, this make a huge difference.

[nosthevamp]

I think one can should do it, warm it up in warm water first, this make a huge difference.

Cheers, will try that.

[bromvw]

Thanks guys, I think it turned out good. Any special rubbing compound you recommend?

i've found Halfords rubbing compound to be very good . It looks like shaving foam out of the spray can but has just the right amount of abrasion without the risk of ' rub through ' .