Wild Willy 1 and ESC's.....

[Revvvs]

Hi all,

there's some mention of using ESC's with a Wild Willy 1 in this link: http://www.tamiyaclub.com/forum/topic.asp?...=ESC,wild,willy.

Is it OK to use an ESC in this model without any modifications, or do I need to make some ventilation in the radio box due the to the heat generated by the ESC???

Paul

[wildwillydriver(2)]

Yes you can use an ESC in a WW1, i use it!!

Look my runner in my showroom and click on the the Pic called "inside" and you'll see it.

With motors that can be easely used on WW1 without too much mods (sock 540 black endbell, black motor sprint and endurance red & blue EB) every good ESC will work without problem. With those motors it will run cold also if inside the radio box.

Mine runs with a stock 540 and 2000 or 2400 NiCd.

Please do not modify the original radio box it's a murder........ []

Bye

WWD

[]

[Revvvs]

Thanks WWD!

I'm guessing the radio boxes are not that easy to find then???!

Paul

[wildwillydriver(2)]

quote:

Originally posted by Revvvs

Thanks WWD!

I'm guessing the radio boxes are not that easy to find then???!

Paul

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You are right, especially a good one!

WWD

[]

[WillyChang]

Any decent modern ESC won't get warm. FETs are so efficient these days that they don't even bother exposing the tabs for cooling anymore.

[Revvvs]

Hi Willy,

I've an Associated Runner Plus ESC w/Reverse - I know these are cheap n' cheerful - any problems likely with this???

thanks

Paul

[wildwillydriver(2)]

quote:

Originally posted by Revvvs

I've an Associated Runner Plus ESC w/Reverse - I know these are cheap n' cheerful - any problems likely with this???

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It's more than enough and it will runs cold also if you plan to add a modified motor!

Have fun with the Willy!!

Bye

WWD

[]

[WillyChang]

Runner is made by LRP I think... is it blue?? []

Biggest problem with fitting ESC to WW1 is the steering servo. Once you lose the MSC servo the poor steering servo has nothing to sit on. I've seen some guys cut a block of wood size of servocase to sit the servo on, or just stick a dead old servo in there.

[Revvvs]

Yep it's made by LRP - looks more green than blue to me (although I am a bit colour blind!). There's a pic here: http://www.hobbiesr.com/asc/asc-esc/asclrp8305.htm

Have thought about the steering servo mounting thing - I was gonna cut a block of wood for it, but I've got a bunch of old servos from various recent deals so will just stick one of those in it. Have also considered using an old servo case stuffed with lead weights to change the handling!?!? [8)]

[wildwillydriver(2)]

quote:

Originally posted by WillyChang

....... just stick a dead old servo in there.

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I used this solution....! []

Bye

WWD

[]

[WillyChang]

quote:

Originally posted by Revvvs

Have also considered using an old servo case stuffed with lead weights to change the handling!?!? [8)]

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Nah, makes no difference.

Tie it to the bumper instead. []

(why do you wanna stop Willy wheelying anyway??![?])

[netsmithUK]

I got an old Willy body a while back where some one had managed to melt it by letting the resistors get tooo hot - not sure what they were running through it.

Any way I was about to chuck it, when I decided to having a go at fixing it and all the talk here of speedos made me think about posting the results... Heres the various stages.

Classic melted bonnet

Gotta make it worse before it gets better

Put a sheet of platiKard underneath and build it up with some more pieces

Fill it...

Sand, spray, fill - repeat until happy

The bit that is still warped is OK, as most of it is hidden behind the dash board. I know it was a nice flat area to fix but I was still quite pleased with the results.

chris

[Revvvs]

That's a great repair job Chris, and an excellent illustration of the way to do it!

My WW1 Runner has got all the bits but a cracked front grill - I was going to have a go at casting a new one in resin - anyone tried to do this before???

Paul

[wildwillydriver(2)]

WOW!! Goooood job!

I'm sorry but i don't understand what you used and how you filled the big hole can you explain it to me?

Thanks

Bye

WWD

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[netsmithUK]

basically i just got some A4 sheets of plastic card from the LHS. Stuck a big piece under the hole, virtually the whole of the underside of the bonnet (you can see it through the body mount hole)

Then cut some more pieces to the rough size of the hole and stuck them on top. The lots of fillings and sanding to get it all down to the same level and hide the join.

chris

[wildwillydriver(2)]

quote:

Originally posted by netsmithUK

basically i just got some A4 sheets of plastic card from the LHS. Stuck a big piece under the hole, virtually the whole of the underside of the bonnet (you can see it through the body mount hole)

Then cut some more pieces to the rough size of the hole and stuck them on top. The lots of fillings and sanding to get it all down to the same level and hide the join.

chris

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Thanks you've been of big help.

I hope that we will see it soon on a WW..! [8D]

Bye

WWD

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[netsmithUK]

Sure will - plus i've got two more willys on thier way making a grand total of 5 ww1's and a ww2!

[wildwillydriver(2)]

quote:

Originally posted by netsmithUK

Sure will - plus i've got two more willys on thier way making a grand total of 5 ww1's and a ww2!

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Great collection!! []

At the moment i'm "only" at 4 Wild Willy M38 (2 short wheel base and 2 long WB) and 2 Wild Willy 2, but i'm still growing...... []

Soon i'll update my showroom.

When a Wild Willy repro decal????

Bye

WWD

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[urban warrior]

Hi there,

just in case, it is of interest for anyone, you find my steering servo solution below:

I just took a servo with broken tabs, cut the rest of the tabs off, sanded the "bottom", mounted two aluminium tabs with double sided tape onto the servo, and the whole thing with double sided tape onto a speed control mount.

Regards

Martinid="Comic Sans MS">id="size3">id="red">

[J3cubfan]

Nice job. I wish that I had seen that earlier. I had a Monster Beetle shell that had two front supports snapped in 1/2. I ended up trashing the shell.