Origineelreclamebord 45 Posted May 25, 2012 You have a certified customer here Paul, A set of those Super Astute blocks would go nicely on my Astute project also wouldn't mind a set of the new Dyna block design for my Blaster, Have you got any prices for them? As this is not a sales topic but a development topic, I cannot comment on these things publicly through this topic (See warning point) I will send you a PM about it. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Shanks 5 Posted May 26, 2012 Ahhhh totally forgot about that sorry. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Origineelreclamebord 45 Posted May 30, 2012 No problem Just a small update by the way:I had finished the Super Astute block design, or so I thought, but when I saw my Super Astute in the flesh again (instead of pictures), I saw the open top was made by Tamiya to allow such low outdrives on the car! So I adjusted the part a bit, to fit on the Super Astute first time around! To maximize stregth, I decided to use a non-symmetrical design, so the cutout doesn't have to be made across the whole length, or in two spots on the part. The nut on the rear also needs to be lower, so I decided to lower the mounting piece of the block. It is still about twice as thick as the original though! PS: If more updates are to follow on the Super Astute project, either this will thread will have to change title, or a new thread will be made for the development of these parts in general. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kontemax 1725 Posted May 30, 2012 You should give some antisquat to the rear suspension block... Max Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Origineelreclamebord 45 Posted May 31, 2012 You should give some antisquat to the rear suspension block... Max I wanted to keep the same suspension geometry, hence why I kept it the same. However if there's interest for them I can of course make a version with the anti-squat Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Shanks 5 Posted June 11, 2012 Progress report....After going Dukes of Hazzard with my Dyna Storm on this small patch of woodland near my home...... One of my prototype blocks from Paul broke At the time I was running my Dyna with a Acto Pink motor with the timing advanced a little, A Mtroniks Viper RV11 & a HPI Plazma 7.4v 3000mah 20c Lipo. During the course of my little run I had my 7yr old son taking some pictures for me and I was trying to get some decent pics of the Dyna in flight etc so i was experimenting with different speeds & parts of the jump to get a good picture & landing. On occasions I did give it some beans and everything was going well until in one of my little moments everything went wrong too fast wrong angle etc the Dyna ended up cartwheeling 5 or 6 times down the hill which resulted in the above picture. I do have to add something which I believe had a massive part to play in the block failing where it did, Before my run I gave my Dyna a check over & noticed that both of my rear uprights (C1 & C2) had cracks formed where the screw holds the turnbuckles to the uprights. When the C part failed completely during the cartwheels this in turn put more stress onto the block causing that in turn to fail where it did. Below is a pic of where the C parts were beginning to fail. I wish now that I had replaced both my C parts for the set of re-enforced ones I had in my spares box so that I could have given these blocks a fair test but I tend to not replace parts unless they break However hopefully this will help Paul in his designing of this part. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Origineelreclamebord 45 Posted June 13, 2012 Thanks for posting about this Shanks. It is of course bad news to see the part has failed, but it is good news at the same time. A breakage shows where there is potential to improve the part, and I think I know the cause of this: The sharp corner in the part. Making this into a fillet (a larger one at that) will significantly increase the strength, as the stresses concentrated to that corner in a crash will have a larger surface to be distributed over. Due to hard disk gremlins I have lost a lot of work, including these blocks, so I will have to re-model them altogether, so it will take some time. However, once done I'll update you guys again. Meanwhile I did receive the first V2.01 blocks! (I have a file of that on the website of the printing service which can't be edited but that I could order for myself): It wasn't actually fitted to a car, but it was test fitted with a suspension arm, the metal reinforcing plate and the suspension shaft. First I needed to drill the shaft hole to 3mm, which went pretty easily (with a 3.1mm drill, the material stretches a little when drilling, so the 3mm drill turned out to give holes about 0.1mm too small - which means the shaft would turn inside the suspension arms, which though they can probably handle are not designed for. With the 3.1mm drill bit I got holes with a approximately 0.05mm clearance on the shaft - which runs VERY smoothly and free of play). The fit is pretty nice, besides the drilling there is no work needed to make things fit. There is some play on the arm in the longitudal direction. I'm happy with that, it of course needs a little play, it can be minimized with shims, and last but not least, the play ensures it fits without mods on any Dyna, taking the tolerances on both the printing and injection moulded parts into account Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Grassmonkey 0 Posted June 25, 2012 I'll be a first time poster, I joined the forum just so I can get a set of these blocks from Paul for my Dyna Blaster. The DB has been lying around for years cause of this, so when I got serious about fixing it, I found Paul's post. I know he's had issues with his HD and as I wanted a set to use, I got the V2.01's which Paul admits aren't his final design, but it gets me going again. The fit is excellent, and the Dyna Blaster is up and running, so I am happy chappy. I've told Paul that if he gets round to making other parts for the Dyna Storm/ Blaster I'll buy several for spare/ replacement. Thanks Paul. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wildwillydriver 33 Posted June 26, 2012 After a little bit of silence i can now post my test results on my Dyna with Paul blocks. Even if were i live we are struggling to have a good 1/10 track and my nitro 1:8 off road season that takes a lot of my free RC time, i had the chance o put them on the car and to have a test on a 1:8 track and they worked fine. To be honest i hadn't big crashes and i drove my DS fast but as smooth as possible. Anyway i did some big jumps and some hard landings with no damages. This was a first test and i hope to be able to do more soon. Very good job Paul! Bye WWD Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Origineelreclamebord 45 Posted July 12, 2012 Nice to hear you had time to test the blocks WWD! And even nicer to hear they held up! I'm sure that 1/8th track must be demanding on the car, what motor have you got in there to make the jumps? Or is it not too bad? Just an update by the way: This morning I re-modeled most of the block. The last thing I have to do is check the accuracy of the rear braces. I present to you, Dyna Storm Rear Block V3.01: It is pretty much a re-modeling job of the V2.01 block, but being a completely new file, I have to consider it a new version due to small deviations between this and the original V2.01 model. For example, the way the mounting piece and the shaft holding piece merge is slightly different. The geometry may differ a tiny bit here and there too. Also, there is one update to the block. Shanks returned his blocks so I could examine the damage to the broken block. I think a big(ger) fillet in the corner at the rear mount would help a lot to spread the stresses, resulting in a stronger part. Instead of +/- 0.75mm, this fillet is now 2.5mm. The result is that the suspension arms require slight modification to fit. However, it should ensure a big increase in strength on the block, and I believe the arm will be easily strong enough, even after removing the material. And if the user has doubts, he or she can always choose to modify my blocks instead 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Origineelreclamebord 45 Posted July 30, 2012 They are done! I assume development on the rear blocks is done, though of course if more people start using them some room for improvement might pop up. I may move to doing other parts soon... Any suggestions? Front blocks? Front uprights? Another car entirely? 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wildwillydriver 33 Posted August 1, 2012 You are doing a fantastic job mate! Bye WWD Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Origineelreclamebord 45 Posted October 7, 2012 So, after a bit of silence, another update. It seems the H-Parts / Front uprights+Steering arms are getting pretty hard to find - yet (in my experience) it seems these parts also seem to crack easily (around the holes in which the ball connectors mount). So, I decided to model a reinforced block for my Dyna Storm: It has more material around all the axles (in fact everywhere really), and it would be better to mount the ball connector not by threading the plastic, but to mount a screw through the part and mount a ball connector nut on the other side instead The parts are pretty 'heavy' - their volume is 5.42cm^3 for a pair - to make a comparison, the rear suspension blocks are 8.63cm^3 a pair (which you would say are substantially bigger). I'll start work on the steering arms (H3+H4) in a minute and the prototype parts will be ordered at Shapeways tonight! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Origineelreclamebord 45 Posted October 19, 2012 Update time: I got the 3D printed parts today! They fit first time around without any mods or shaving material off: I Just drilled out the holes to 3mm (and the ones for M3 threads to 2.5-2.6mm) and they were ready to fit. I really like the uprights, compared to the originals they are like tank parts They're very beefy and the maximum steering angle seems the same as the original (as is the other geometry). The steering rack I had printed just because the originals I had were cracked at the mounts - It's slightly reinforced, but it's the main test to see whether the 3D printed Nylon can hold screw threads through regular use. So far so good. I'll test the parts asap - first a bit onroad, then probably a bit offroad and then somewhere this winter I'll have a vintage indoor race - in which I of course will use the Dyna Storm! I'll keep you guys updated on the quality of the parts, though I think the front uprights are good enough and ready as is . Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kontemax 1725 Posted October 19, 2012 What kind of material is this? Is it strong enough? Can be dyed, filed and sanded (it's a bit rough)? You have reproduced MK1 steering arms. Mk2 had a reinforcement part. Max Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Origineelreclamebord 45 Posted October 20, 2012 The material is nylon. It is 3D printed through Selective Laser Sintering (SLS), which is a method where layer by layer, powder is (locally) fused together by a laser. The parts are accurate, don't warp and the nylon means it's quite strong (so far I only heard of one set that broke, it was the very first set), but it is indeed porous and has a rough finish. Because it's porous, sanding doesn't change the surface other than removing the 'steps' from printing layers, but that same property allows it very well to be dyed, and Tamiya PS-paint seems to adhere very well to it as well with a cleaned and dried surface If you dry the paint very quickly like I did on another project of mine, you'll get a rougher texture on it (but lose the 'lines/layers' of the printing) - it looks a lot like grip tape: The steering arms are thicker, both the bottom and top mounts (bottom is +0.5mm, top is +1mm I recall) - I don't think the rib is actually necessary because I only cracked the mounts on the steering arms, but I'll find out soon enough. I've also been looking at alternative constructions for the steering mount, but there's not much space due to the inside mount of the camber link. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Origineelreclamebord 45 Posted November 24, 2012 There we go... The D5 Front Suspension Block I promised - long ago - to make! The main problem to overcome was that for at least two of the screw holes of this block I can't put a nut in there (like I would prefer to). I didn't know how the material would cope with holding a thread, so I needed to find that out first. Recently I experimented with it and the material seems to handle the fine thread of a metric screw very well! Problem solved, and I finished the model today. The block is pretty beefy: The shock tower mounts have more material to them and like the rear suspension blocks, it doesn't need the copper bushings, making space for more material on the block without adding more around it. It also uses hex nuts instead of press nuts and I made an optional H7 part. It's just for trying out a small styling piece really, to hide balance weights that you can add on the front block perhaps? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Origineelreclamebord 45 Posted December 10, 2012 Pictures of it fitted on the car soon to follow The Dyna Storm will attend a vintage race upcoming weekend, the perfect opportunity to test all these parts and see whether they are as strong as I think! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
GTodd 1350 Posted December 12, 2012 I need this now! Please see pm. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kontemax 1725 Posted October 14, 2013 I didn't see this new! Max Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wildwillydriver 33 Posted October 15, 2013 Top Stuff from a top Guy, very well done!! I still have my prototype D on the car and they works wonder! WWD Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Origineelreclamebord 45 Posted October 15, 2013 Thanks WWD! Awesome to hear they're still going strong! I still have to do the front bumper and rear uprights some day, that'd complete the collection of replacement parts for the Dyna's 'usual' trouble spots I think? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
