SRB Parts Nickel Plating Experiment

[casethejoint]

Gearbox and rear suspension pot-metal was high in Alu with a trace of zinc which was removed with an acid bath before plating:-

Problem was the front arms and uprights were a totally different metal, but ended up in the same acid bath and melted:-

Lesson learned : use a spectrometer on each part individually before attempting this

That said, results are awesome where it's worked. The gear case and other successfully plated parts look amazing - photos don't do justice.....

This was for all vintage parts - no idea what the re-re pot metal is like ?

[oz-trash-cowboy]

The pot metal / aluminium, zinc, magnesium and whatever else they can get to melt in the "pot" can be a tricky plate. Some of the pain can be avoided with a nice coat of copper before the nickel. You can even polish out any dings and re copper and it even worked (for me) on the front uprights. However, I did have to retap the set screw (M3) and ball race retaining screw (M2). I have done a rere as well with elecroless nickel, dont remember any dramas with nitric, sulfuric or hydrofluroic solutions, but it was some time back, dont quote / shoot me!!!

[casethejoint]

Thanks OTC.

The copper plating first is an interesting idea. I might give that a try next time.

Ultimately I'd like to do a plated vintage Scorcher in precious metal (white gold or Rhodium), so this is a test and learn phase for me which can go wrong at low cost

[oz-trash-cowboy]

My understanding is its not easy to get the nickel to strike / stick to an alloy with zinc. The copper plating process is less critical and then the nickel can be tricked into sticking. I have done a MK2 SRB and RERE SRB in electroless nickel, and had the same dramas as you did with the uprights, but pulled (well the plating shop guy) them out of the hot nitric acid before any major damage was done. If you want a satin / matt / scratch hiding finish then a light tickle bead blasting of the pot metal first does the trick.