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Johan

Wild Willy 4x4

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It is time that I started posting some pics of my Wild willy 4x4 project over here as well...

and a preview of the chassis without body..

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:blink: The head looks bigger than the body , Or is just the pic's .

Look's like a great project .

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it maybe the pics, this head is less that 1/5 of an inch higher that the original head..

and thanks :blink:

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it maybe the pics, this head is less that 1/5 of an inch higher that the original head..

and thanks :blink:

Well the originally Willy's proportions are a bit SD, so it makes sense that the head would seem la....this is going in forum quotes of the week isn't it?

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That's looking great. I wasn't keen on the 1/6 head on a 1/10ish body but once the helmet went on it all worked. Keep the updates coming.

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Are those Dragon Parts ? ie the head and tools .

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The head looks like it but the tools are too small to be 1/6 and look scratch built too me.

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The head looks like it but the tools are too small to be 1/6 and look scratch built too me.

Think your right . I like the Dragon items and have some on order but heck they can be expensive . :( I find it interesting that so many of us are building military themes at persent .

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I don't know the brand of the head but it could be dragon, picked it of ebay for 6 bucks..

the tools are 3d printed, I designed them, then send them to shapeways, same as the grille..(that is, by the way, an MB grille not an M38 like from the WW1)

http://www.shapeways.com/model/365897/wild...le-and-axe.html

http://www.shapeways.com/model/103110/wild...ly-2-grill.html

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Driver looks a bit like Willy in big head mode on a video game cheat. Don't get me wrong though, it looks good. Willy's head was always that little bit too big for the rest of him.

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i'm liking this .. old willy's head was too big for his body so the new head looks ok too ..

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here are some more pictures, detail pictures..

I am working on the last details to get the body to fit the chassis, then I'll have a go with an old Wild Willy body to see how it runs before adding this one..

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It has been a while since the last update, and here is why. When I finished the build and took the car out for a test drive all went well as long as i stayed on a flat surface. On tarmac it drives incredible, for a wild willy, and is really stable also considering it has a high gravity point and compared to my other wild willy's. But.. as i am not building a 4x4 to stay on the standard roads, I took it to some dirt and gravel paths and the there is a problem. The ball diff's slip.. they tend to move the power of the motor to where there is no grip and even after tightening them to the max when the front wheels spin when they have no grip and the rear wheels don't do anything anymore.... aaargh...I could have known that a car build for the road, a asso tc3, wassen't going to be the best option to go off-road. This forced me into plan b. Go buy some axles that have proven terrain capabilities, and are small enough to fit under the WW body. I ended up buying a losi mrc to take it a part for parts.

Plan b also ment I had to build a new chassis to fit the axles, as the losi mrc axles are entirely different to the tc3 diff/suspention arm combo. First I thought of starting to saw some aluminum again but as i already do some 3d design and have it printed I thought I'd go that way. So I have drawn the losi mrc axles in 3d and started from there

Th current status is that I am almost finished with the design and only need to get the mounting points for the links in place and make a spot to mount the battery, esc and 1 for the receiver.

pictures say more than words..

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That looks great, but did you try locking the diffs on the old chassis first? I locked just the rear diff on my Hummer with epoxy glue and it made a big difference to the traction and what I could climb over without effecting the turning circle much. I've since done it to the rear diffs on both my CC01's and the improvement is well worth the minimum effort.

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@Mr.Crispy: I tried to, they have a set screw and I tightened it close to breaking, I did not use any glue though. glue might have done the trick, but now I have this chassis and like it so much more than the old one..

@Toykid: after I have the first one printed and tested, and find it is good, it will be available via shapeways, like the shovle/axe combo and the grill... The downside to that is that I never can find out where they went. There have been a couple of grills printed for others than me, but sadly I never have seen any pictures of them actualy being used.

and thanks all for the nice coments.. :D

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The design is finished.. uhh finished may be a big word in this case. I have ended designing for now and send the first prototype to shapeways to get printed. Actually I already have send the file 3 times now, they kept refusing to print it because of some wallthickness issues. They can only print the PA material with a minimum of 0,7 mm wallthickness and the frame had some point that were just shy of that 0,65mm... and they then send a picture pointing out the thin spots so I could fix that. But as it turns out they check the files manually(will be computer testing at a later point in time they say) and the operators doing the checking just pick some random points to measure.. I found this out after sending a fixed file, that then also was refused for the same issues, again with a picture showing different thin spots as the first time.. I then checked the entire model again, and I found that i scaled down some parts after drawing, and they were the ones being thin now. So now after fixing it all I resend the file and it is going to be printed, i am expecting the printed frame somewhere at the very beginning of the new year.

Here is the frame as it is going to be printed..

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and the end result should look something like this:

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Cant wait to see the end result.

What program are you using to make drawings?

Shapeways looks very interesting, the possibilities are endless for custom plastic parts. Do you think they could print 1/10th body drawn in 3D to be used as mould for vacuum forming?

Anyway, great work.

Brenden.

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I use cinema 4d to design my stuff. It is not primarily made for prototyping or cad things like autocad is, it is mainly used for 3d animations.

I think they could print a mold depending on how big you want it. I am not sure if the PA material I selected for my frame is suited to use as a mold because it holds up to only about 160°C..

Maximum size is 650x350x550mm for this material.

But I guess you could have a mold printed in stainless steel, that will hold plenty of temperature before deforming, and the maximum size is 100x45x25cm. I think the only obstacle is your imagination and maybe how much money you want to spend. Stainless steel printing get expensive fast..

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HI Johan I really love what you've done with the shell and your chassis looks like a work of art, looking forward to pics when you get it from Shapeways, top job

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To make the wait untill the printed part gets here somewhat shorter I made a little animation of the end result, or how it should look when build..

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Ok here is yet another small update... look what the mailman brought me today.. :D

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