Jump to content
Wandy

Wild One Re-Release. #58525

Recommended Posts

Just finished my Wild One build, pics to follow in the next few days :)

Bit of a newbie question. Tried the WO on the carpet tonight but when I pull the trigger on the transmitter the WO goes in reverse. I can't work out how to fix this. Any suggestions ?

Btw, I'm using an Ansmann W5 with R5 receiver.

Thanks guys :)

How about reversing the Tx throttle to reverse?(servo reverse) or swap the green & yellow motors wires.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

How about reversing the Tx throttle to reverse?(servo reverse) or swap the green & yellow motors wires.

Thanks for the suggestions. I tried switching to reverse but it makes a strange and constant noise. Not sure what that's all about.

I'll try swapping the motor wires tomorrow.

Cheers :)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for the suggestions. I tried switching to reverse but it makes a strange and constant noise. Not sure what that's all about.

I'll try swapping the motor wires tomorrow.

Cheers :)

When you reverse the channel, make sure to recalibrate the esc.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

When you reverse the channel, make sure to recalibrate the esc.

Thanks for the info mate. I swapped the motor cables and that's sorted the problem.

However there appears to be a new problem. Reverse has more oomph than when the buggy goes forward. I've only tested it on the living room carpet but reverse is definitely quicker than the buggy going forward. Strange !!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I saw this coming! The motor was wired up ok first time, but you transmitter was set up wrongly for the Tamiya speedo - it's a common thing. Just reverse the throttle channel, most transmitters can do this so check your manual or the Internet if its not immediately obvious how to do it. Put your motor wires back how they were first time round. Reverse always had less power than forward. You'll also notice that - when its all set up properly - when you go from forward to reverse you will need to let the throttle on your transmitter sit at neutral first before it lets you reverse, it's to allow for braking and to protect the gears. However when you are reversing you can if you wish slam it straight forwards with no delay. Good luck.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks Hopperboy, very helpful info. I was sure I had put the motor cables together correctly. I'll change it back and reverse the throttle channel. Hope to post some pics of the WO later tonight :)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Here's a couple of pics of my Wild One build. More added to my showroom. Loved this build. Up next is the CR-01 Unimog. Can't wait ! :)

a45dc99cb0f0d14f5e47a90f3418e008.jpg

be857fd309f0005bd92f3cad3c573d8c.jpg

dc4ef348f2bbfce4cb8ad074535573bb.jpg

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Love the scale details and those tires!

Cheers mate. For me, the FAV tyres/wheels really sets of this buggy. Even though they cost me about £30.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Anyone happen to know where I can buy the plastic adjusters for the steering rods ? (Without having to shell out 15 notes for the entire C bag on ebay)

When I built my WO, pretty sure I've cut the adjusters too short and now the steering gets caught on one side. There's a snapping sound when I turn the steering back over.

Also used the Carson CS-3 Standard servo. Any experience of these or if I should look at upgrading when I fix the steering rods ?

http://www.modelsport.co.uk/carson-cs-3-standard-servo/rc-car-products/371295

Thanks in advance :)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

White 4mm ball cups for M2 rod: Tamiya #50633

If you would like to upgrade to M3 rod while keeping the 4mm ball ends, you can use Tamiya #51111. This however depends on how the links are attached to the servo saver and if there's enough room in the chassis to clear the thicker rods.

The CS-3 is okay for a 2WD. I had one of the older CS-3 servos in the silver/black plastic case. It wasn't the fastest, but it was annoyingly noisy. I haven't tried the new blue one, but it may be just the same electronics in a new case. I would prefer a Futaba S3003 as a basic servo any day. :)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

White 4mm ball cups for M2 rod: Tamiya #50633

If you would like to upgrade to M3 rod while keeping the 4mm ball ends, you can use Tamiya #51111. This however depends on how the links are attached to the servo saver and if there's enough room in the chassis to clear the thicker rods.

The CS-3 is okay for a 2WD. I had one of the older CS-3 servos in the silver/black plastic case. It was't the fastest, but it was annoyingly noisy. I haven't tried the new blue one, but it may be just the same electronics in a new case. I would prefer a Futaba S3003 as a basic servo any day. :)

Thanks for the info mate. I've gone for the 50633 adjusters :)

Also noticed some slop in the servo saver. The screw attaching the servo saver to the servo will not screw tight. Looking back in the manual for the WO it's not made it clear which screw to use. There were 4 choices. Looks like I used the wrong screw.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thread rejuvenation time !

Can anyone comment on whether the re-re rear shocks are betetr thant he originals for a beach runner ?

I realise there are comments about the casting quality of the re re cylinders and the springs being too stiff, but are they less prone to leaking than the originals ?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Any shocks are fine for the beach.

The Re re shocks springs are still too hard & the original Frog shocks were ok in my opinion but still too stiff in the spring rates.

I guess thats why most of the vintage promo ads were filmed on the beach to hide any suspension flaws <_<

Seriously the Wild One is one great performer with better rear shocks. :)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Some Re Re Wild One observations....

My son and I are building a RRWO. Just thought I would share a few pics of the build and some comments/thoughts....

In this picture you can see a cover on the gearbox that reads 'Oil'. Obviously this is not really for oil but is a scale detail, however it is functional in that you can remove the cover and apply grease to the gearbox gears. Props Tamiya!

IMG_5941.JPG

Inside the tub of our Re Re Wild One, it reads "Copyright 1984 Tamiya". That makes this model design over twice the age of my son who is building it!

IMG_5945.JPG

Further up the tub the casting reads "RCC Attack Vehicle" in very small writing. I know the FAV is pretty similar, did it come first prior to the Wild One though?

IMG_5951.JPG

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The outside of the box indicates the model is made in the Philippines. I think the vintage models were made in Japan? regardless, the RRWO has very precise fitting kit parts, even plastic on plastic bushings fit like a glove!

IMG_5953.JPG

During our build today we mistakenly fitted the rear suspension arms the wrong way around. While it all went together properly and looked right, we found that there was less than half the expected suspension travel. So if you are building and find the same issue, check to see you have the suspension arms on the right way around!

IMG_5958.JPG

This is where we finished up with the build tonight. Later on I noticed that we are missing some spacers on the front shocks so we'll need to get that sorted in the next build night! I also dug out a Hitec servo and Spektrum rx to get this beast moving under its own power.

IMG_5961.JPG

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Those spacers you are missing from the front suspension, they should be a red piece of plastic. I would be very grateful if, when you find them, you could perhaps measure them for me? I'd be very grateful!!

Great progress so far. What motor are you going for; standard silver can for now?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

In this picture you can see a cover on the gearbox that reads 'Oil'. Obviously this is not really for oil but is a scale detail, however it is functional in that you can remove the cover and apply grease to the gearbox gears. Props Tamiya!

IMG_5941.JPG

in the 80s T sold an aerosol can of "Spray Oil".

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Those spacers you are missing from the front suspension, they should be a red piece of plastic. I would be very grateful if, when you find them, you could perhaps measure them for me? I'd be very grateful!!

Great progress so far. What motor are you going for; standard silver can for now?

Thanks! the spacers are part G2. I measured them at 6mm.

Yes we are running the stock motor although We hope to go straight to Lipo.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Well last night we fitted the front spacers and setup the steering servo. There was some small tweaks required to servo placement and steering rod alignment, however we got there in the end. I was happy to find that the steering end points on the radio were fine at 100% in both directions:

IMG_5963.JPG

IMG_5965.JPG

Unfortunately during the rear end assembly we had fitted plastic bushings for the inner bearings by mistake so that meant taking the axles out, releasing the shocks etc to refit the proper bearings that came as bonus parts with the kit. After that I hooked up the Tamiya 105bk ESC, a Spektrum RX and setup the speed controller. We gave the Wild One a cursory burst of power in the air and the wheels span fine, then a ground test and gggrrrriiiindd! shoot! doesn't sound right :(

So then we took the back end apart again, pulled the gearbox, split it, checked against the manual and we had missed a bushing and washer in the assembly process. I inspected every gear in the box to make sure the grind hadn't done some damage - thankfully it was all good. So we popped it all back together, dropped in a battery and then brought the Wildone for her maiden voyage a slow circuit through the house :)

IMG_5969.JPG

So the next mission is to think about the colour scheme and see what we can come up with. So far so good :)

IMG_5967.JPG

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Well there are plenty of examples in the main TC gallery, both of the original 58050 and the rere. I noted there were very few silver ones in there. There's the odd white but most are boxy black. Tamiya are normally spot on with their colour against the accompanying decals. Perhaps gunmetal grey would be a slight variant if you intend using them it decals.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

the lexan is only a small part, you'd have to do the tub too

Silver might make it a bit close to the shark mouth FAV?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

So they are the illusive red spacers I'll need to make up myself! Hmmm

It's looking good buddy. Yellow always contrasts well against red if you wanted something slightly different.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Guys, I am new to this forum and been involved in RC fro many years racing, but recently have got the bug for vintage and I am reliving my youth with the cars that I grew up with. This is my first build the Wild One hopefully the pics work. I have got some scale centrelines coming in the next week or so.

30b2peh.jpg

2111569.jpg

Cheers Scott

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Very nice. I like the black spacers on the front shocks. Did you make those or were they out of another Tamiya set?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×
×
  • Create New...