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Posted

Viking, I notice they are all hex screws on your car. Is there a hex screw kit you can buy, or are they just bought individually?

Posted

See i knew you did do it incorrect here is one in the tamiya show room that a guy put together see servo saver he has no problems like i have had none with my both fast attack buggies ... you just did not know how to assemble it correctly.

http://tamiyaclub.co...012051725_3.jpg

That guy is me, that's my Wild One in my showroom. I put the lower shock mount on upside down when I first built it. Oops, sorted now :).

Posted

That guy is me, that's my Wild One in my showroom. I put the lower shock mount on upside down when I first built it. Oops, sorted now :).

:D Well at least it's correct now...I think the guy who posted up his put it together wrong in the first place trying to use the stock tie rods with the wrong servo save that he still has on in his photo that's why he was having so many problems with it.

Posted

I just bought the screws individually.

I detest Phillips head screws and for the life of me, I cannot understand why Tamiya continues to use them!

Could it be that it would be too easy for people to strip the threads with hexes? Since I'm not too good with building I have to be careful even with the philips'...

Posted

I've always had better luck with hex screws. Faster to go in, and I've only ever stripped one hex screw (titanium on my db01). The are a much better solution and make assembly/dis-assembly so much easier.

Posted

I am still waiting for the WO to hit the shops in Europe (Germany, bascically), so I have not got one yet..

Also wondering a bit why I see no more people applying for the Wild One SIG, ;)

Can´t wait to see all the different versions of the Wild One turning up on here. :) 

Posted

I am still waiting for the WO to hit the shops in Europe (Germany, bascically), so I have not got one yet..

Also wondering a bit why I see no more people applying for the Wild One SIG, ;)

Can´t wait to see all the different versions of the Wild One turning up on here. :)

Yah, I have not seen it up on modellbau-seidel.de yet either...

  • Like 1
Posted

I just noticed that Tamiya America has now listed the Wild One as a product instead of a 'Coming Soon' item... Very exciting! None yet at my local hobby shop, though.

Posted

I just bought the screws individually.

I detest Phillips head screws and for the life of me, I cannot understand why Tamiya continues to use them!

Hey just curious Viking, where did you get your turnbuckles, ball connectors and ball ends?

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

woohoo... WifiOne is alive! B):ph34r:

what batteries are you guys using?

Only my smallest/shortest 2s pack would fit into the compartment,

& only after removing the sideplate for entry. Wires poke out thru side.

Might have to try a "shorty" 2s pack someday.

With modern technology's weightloss... WOW she could use a WHEELIE BAR :D

Posted

Modelsport and Fusion Hobbies have it up at £179.99 - with 10% off for subscribers at Fusion it makes it only £7 more expensive than Far East eBay sellers currently want, and no risk of import duties.

Around £110 + shipping (£35-40 ??) from Stella when they restock

Posted

Does anyone know if there is an aftermarket pinion for the Wild One? I'm looking for a steel one as the aluminum alloy pinion constantly wears out on my original... does Robinson Racing make one? does the 15t pinion from the scorcher or the buggy champ fit in the wild one/fav??

Thanks!!

Tim

Posted

I'm using Turnigy 2200 small lipos, ones that fit in the Traxxas 1/16 cars... they fit and they're light as heck!! I see turnigy is now making a 3000 mah batt... twice the capacity of that old 1400-1500 hump pack that I originally ran in my Wild One back in 1985...

Posted

lucky you... we only had black 1200SC Racing Pack sticks back then :P

Which were just the perfect length and their wire+plug packed neatly

in the slot provided - T thought about everything back then :)

yea would be good to have the battery wire routed internally.

Otherwise afaik there's no 'neat' way to route it exiting via driver's cabin.

Once that's routed internally, can patchup the gaping hole in

RH nerfbar plate to make it look like the original W1 again.

New wheels don't seem to run very true :( looks like post-molding warpage.

Posted

btw how many of you fellas have built your 2012 W1s so far...

Not particularly impressed with latest "Made in Philippines" efforts in quality <_<

Many of the screws specified are LONGER than the hole they fit into so they stick out the other end,

just about whole kit now uses 3x12mm when 10mm could've sufficed.

Most probably won't cause issues... except for this location - poking into (vestigial) battery box:-

DSC03060-640.jpg

Worst QC fail is in the alloy rear shocks...

DSC03058-640.jpg

both rear shock cylinders have a deep score, looks like CNC tool has crashed into it badly

Posted

wow that's pretty awful. Makes me value my WO resto project even more. I wonder if the damper problem is consistent or if this is an isolated thing. Also, I wonder if there are any hex screw sets for this kit. I saw someone built their kit with individually purchased screws but that seems a bit a tedious. oh well.

Posted

unfortunately the shock bodies are hidden away in the sealed inner box,

so can't easily inspect all kits without breaking the seal

Also, I wonder if there are any hex screw sets for this kit. I saw someone built their kit with individually purchased screws but that seems a bit a tedious. oh well.

i substituted most of the screws with stainless hex buttonheads

although majority of the screws are supplied as M3x12mm,

like half of them are too long so i used shorter as possible

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