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Posted

It is being released at the end of July over here in Japan.

I agree that it looks good, but looking at the pictures, there is just one little thing that bugs me...Where's the droop?

I mean, it looks like the suspension has quite a lot of "up" travel, but no droop?

Anyway, I will pick one up when they become available.

Just not sure if I should get the pro version or the standard kit.

The pro version is around US$200 and the standard kit is US180.

What would you guys get?

Posted

What would you guys get?

I'd always go for the "R" or "PRO" version of a chassis to get the drivetrain and suspension hopups; in the long run it's cheaper than adding them later.

-Paul

Posted

It needs a Lancer Evo , and by that i mean the old ones not the last one .

Actually, we still need a proper rally version (livery) of the evo X a la:

acp15.jpg

Posted

Actually, we still need a proper rally version (livery) of the evo X a la:

acp15.jpg

that one is nice but its not proper WRC . everyone has their own taste.

Posted

Looks brilliant! I want this chassis sooooo much.. it will be mine as soon as its available.. with an Escort Cosworth shell on it :)

Posted

It looks good. That said, having seen it from more angles in the video, I see some things that I don't like.

For one, what's up with the non-flat chassis floor? This can be very annoying when driving on rougher terrain or in wooded areas. It will catch on anything sticking out from the surface you're driving on, from twigs to rocks, causing instability in the car.

Battery access from the underside. Why? It would have been so easy to design the car so the battery can be taken out from the side! If it's for not having to take the body off, I am sure with a battery hatch that covers the side and a small edge of the bottom, (and hinges at the top side) it is really easy to take out and the body can stay on as well. The biggest reason I don't like this layout for the battery mounting is the fact you need screws, and it has the potential to get jammed by dirt and grit. I'm not saying snap pins should be used as you easily lose them when they suddenly snap off, but they are many ways to make a quicker release system without them. Also, using the hatch (mostly) on the side will reduce the amount of dirt than can jam the battery hatch.

Then lastly, everything is protected from dirt, grit and big flows of water, except from the servo (and the motor, but there the most important seal is at the backside at the wires, at least for brushless systems). The problem with the servo is that it's held in a bay where the dirt, grit and water will accumulate. With the motor it's not really the case.

One thing I would've liked to see on a car with such closed bays for electronics, is inserts for the 'common' connectors in the chassis (Tamiya, Deans, Traxxas, Power pole connectors). What do I mean with that? I mean that instead of wires and a connector at the end, moving freely, it would have been cool to have the connector embedded in the chassis, so you can just slide or click the connector of your battery on. No more fiddling with wires and connectors when changing batteries. And when you have an odd connector? Just a clamp to resstrict the connector's movement somewhat or completely.

I also would've liked to see an extension on the mud guards to put scale mud flaps on the car. That said, it should be pretty easy to do yourself :lol:

Even with the critism I have the video also reveals a few very nice things. I really like the suspension system and the base of the car, of course we had the DF03, but this seems really up to date to the latest touring car specs! I also like the edges of the sealing boxes. There are no rubber seals, but if they fit tightly, this should keep the water out even when you're driving through a pond! :P

Posted

It is being released at the end of July over here in Japan.

I agree that it looks good, but looking at the pictures, there is just one little thing that bugs me...Where's the droop?

I mean, it looks like the suspension has quite a lot of "up" travel, but no droop?

Anyway, I will pick one up when they become available.

Just not sure if I should get the pro version or the standard kit.

The pro version is around US$200 and the standard kit is US180.

What would you guys get?

There's no droop setting. I dont know why Tamiya chooses not to have it on all their cars. M05 and M06 or the TA05 m-four don't come with them either. All they need is a table on each side and add a set screw hole to arms.

I already sold my df03ra last week, set money aside for this car. I'm going with the pro version. I have a brand new delta integrate body sealed in a bag, so no need for a kit with body... Better to have the hop ups.

Posted

Hopefully the non-pro version will be less.....

Depends.. if the Pro does include the TRF shocks the most likely yes. Otherwise it could, considering it includes a body

Posted

ok for ye numbercrunchers here's their RRPs

58526 XV-01 PRO JPY30800

58528 Arai STi XV-01 JPY27800

vs

58492 TA06 PRO JPY29800

TA06 kits with body... JPY24,800-27,000

Posted

Nice job Willy. Roughly $12.00 USD difference between the two pro kits. Towerhobbies sells the TA06 Pro for $289.00. So the XV01 pro could come in just under $300.

Posted

Well, I pre-ordered the pro version today and it should be in my hands sometime in July.

I will of course be posting pictures ;)

At the same time, I ordered a Chevron Lancia 037 body B)

Now, I just have to wait....

Posted

Well, I pre-ordered the pro version today and it should be in my hands sometime in July.

I will of course be posting pictures ;)

At the same time, I ordered a Chevron Lancia 037 body B)

Now, I just have to wait....

Whose Lancia 037 body are you ordering?

Posted

One thing I would've liked to see on a car with such closed bays for electronics, is inserts for the 'common' connectors in the chassis (Tamiya, Deans, Traxxas, Power pole connectors). What do I mean with that? I mean that instead of wires and a connector at the end, moving freely, it would have been cool to have the connector embedded in the chassis, so you can just slide or click the connector of your battery on. No more fiddling with wires and connectors when changing batteries. And when you have an odd connector? Just a clamp to resstrict the connector's movement somewhat or completely.

I really don't understand what you're asking for here. Unless the battery is also without wires and a connector, you're pretty much guaranteed to have to "fiddle with wires and connectors" Also your suggestion would make the installation of the speed controller more complicated since it would always require soldering to connect the battery leads to the built in connector. (and if not, you've just added an extra connection step)

Posted

I really don't understand what you're asking for here. Unless the battery is also without wires and a connector, you're pretty much guaranteed to have to "fiddle with wires and connectors" Also your suggestion would make the installation of the speed controller more complicated since it would always require soldering to connect the battery leads to the built in connector. (and if not, you've just added an extra connection step)

It's actually a good idea. The Baja 5B has this in the radio box for the 5000mAh sub-c TX pack. The battery plug (Tamiya molex) fits into a holder in the radio box, connectors facing out of the box. A screw and clamp hold it in place from the inside. You do not need to open up the radio box for any reason. It's waterproofed with a rubber cap over the outside. They have another rubber cap above the receiver so you can quickly bind the receiver too without opening the radio box (or change crystals if you're still in the last century).

The only problem is what battery connector do they make the holder for. Knowing Tamiya they would use their low voltage molex style plug (eeewww), and then I wouldn't use them or the purpose built battery socket if fitted. The 7.5Amp molex plug is fine on the Baja as you're only using it to charge the TX pack at 2.5Amp.

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