Dragon 1/6 Willis Jeep build

[mr crispy]

Did a trade with my brother recently and aquired his part built Dragon Models WW2 era 1/6 Willis Jeep kit (he got my Hummer restoration that I'd lost interest in so a pretty fair deal). He's always converting large scale models and toys to RC and I had been trying to convince him that crawler axles and transmission would be perfect for this kit.... SO now I had the Jeep I guess I had better put my money were my mouth is!

At first glance it was pretty obvious that my Maverick Scout was going to be a pretty good fit so that became my doner vehicle (I will replace it once funds allow as I love a bit of budget crawling) and turn the Willis into a scaler project. The Dragon kit is surprisingly robust and so I decided not to completely replace the chassis. Instead I used alum L beams from the local hardare store to re-enforce the inner chassis frame, the idea being I'd bolt through them both. First thing to go was the kits leaf springs. I then filled the inside of the kit chassis frame with some leftover brass rod and milliput to improve its strength and stop it from flexing under stress.

After a little research it was clear a proper transfer box wasnt going to fit into my budget so I decided to keep the crawler layout and cut a hole in the Jeep floor to allow the spur gear and transmission to poke up through it. This was a simple solution and isnt an issue for me as I like my scalers to have a used, cluttered look. I'll cover the mechanism with a hollow ammo crate between the seats later.

The transmission is bolted onto 2 lengths of alum, the first fits inside the chassis frame and alum L beams, the second goes outside. There are then 4 bolts that go through both alum lengths, the L beams and kit chassis rails and lock it all together. I also made a Alum skid plate with counter sunk bolts to protect the mechanism and reduce the chances of it getting hung up.

The Mavericks 4 links were then laid out and bolted in place through the L beams without modification. The rear suspension was originally bolted through the chassis rails but wasnt as strong as I wouldve liked and didnt allow for much adjustment or the 65mm length of shocks I wanted to use so I drilled through the floor of the "bed" passed the shock ends through and fixed them to U shaped brackets. These will also be hidden by stowage in te rear compartment.

At the front I used an alum L beam crossmember to mount the shocks. I may end up mounting the steering servo into the engine compartment as well.

This set up meant all the modern running gear is contained inside the kits chassis frame and so its hidden as much as possible. I was wondering about making some fake leaf springs to have a more scale look but I think its only going to hinder the axle articulation.

As it is now I get 3.5 inches for articulation and it'll go over stuff I hadnt expected.

The 2 main hang up points are the lower fuel tank and exhaust so Im modifing them. The exhaust pipe was a shame to cut as it fitted under the skid plate beautifully and just needed a little trim where it met the motor.

Ive since cut it down and rotated it to run along the chassis rail and up into the engine compartment without crossing the chassis beam.

As for the fuel tank, Im thinking to make a sloping guard at the front end to help it slide over the rocks. Both have to be removeable to access the transmission mounting bolts for maintenance.

Mav wheels n tyres were replaced with Proline Flatirons and I moved the bling bead lock rings to the inside rim and the plain ones outside. A quick spray of Halford matt primer and Humbrol light olive followed by matt varnush brought them up loverly. I'm definitely going with this colour scheme for the whole Jeep.

Flatirons are a little smaller then the Mav tyres and dont have the "Balloon" profile.

All the electrics fit under the bonnet and I can just squeeze a full size 7.2v racing pack in there too!

Now the main running gear is finished Im working on a 2nd servo system to link the steering wheel and the drivers head movement via a Y link. Rather than mount it in the engine bay Im trying out mounting the servo on the drivers seat and having a brass rod link up to the steering wheel. This will eventually be covered by the figures arm and clothing. A 2nd link will run up to the figures head and rotate it in time with the steering wheel. I'll need to remove the lower half of the 1/6 figures torso to accommodate the servo but that looks like it'll be reasonably easy. I intend to have the figure & servo held in place with magnets so it can be removed and leave nothing behind other than a small hole in the steering wheel.

Thats it so far. Its taken just under a month to get this far so I hope to actually finish this project in a reasonable time frame for once and go have some fun with it. Just need to fine tune the driver mechanism, fit some lights, strip, paint and rebuild the thing then cover it in stowage.

Im off to have a rummage in the bits box, I'll keep you posted.

Nic

Edited May 23, 2012 by mr crispy

[bromvw]

Looking good Nic . The smaller tyre's are far better Imo. Makes me want to get the GPA done even more now but theres no way it will be as good as this . Its going to take a heck of a lot longer to finish too

[mr crispy]

Yeah I tried some 108mm Ansmann tyres but even they looked to small. I'll find or make something in the end.

Today I was tinkering with the driver and realised I may have actually just made the first Action Man to have a proper set of nuts! :shock:

Barbie will be pleased

Will do a proper update later.

Nic

[mr crispy]

After a bit of a false start thanks to muggins here picking an old knackered servo from the spares box (which had the little fella glitching like Max Headroom) rather than a new one, I've now got the driver figure sorted. Pretty simple system using a rod running from the servo horn and into a hole in the figures arm. The head is mounted on a alum tube which sits inside a larger tube fixed inside the torso. A 2nd rod attaches to a cut down servo horn on the end of the "head" tube. The steering wheel was drilled out and a standard Tamiya stepped screw holds it in place with a washer so it'll spin easily. This way I only need to hide the rod into the arm (which will pass through the jackets sleeve later) instead of a rod running upto the steering wheel. The servo lead will run down a trouser leg and through A hole in the firewall.

But enough chat, watch the video to see the result!

Nic

[mr crispy]

Well real life and other projects keep interrupting this build but I've dragged it out of the loft and had time to get a bit more done this week.

First up I've made a plasticard box to cover the spur gear.

I've given it a wood grain effect by scraping the surface with a wire brush and craft knife and scored planks into the surface.

Not exactly the ammo box I intended but it had to be this big to cover the gear. It's only screwed on so I might change it later, although I like the idea that it could be a crate of wine that's been "liberated"

I've trimmed the front bumper to give it a typical British Airborne look. This also helps reduce it catching when I'm crawling.

I've also removed the roof rail fixings as the airborne guys often did this to save weigh and again it'll likely get snapped off when I'm out on the trails. I'm trying to decide whether to do the same with the tools thatre normally mounted on the drivers side. If I don't move them there's a good chance they'll get lost on a drive somewhere.

I need to get another steering servo as the Mavericks one has given up on me for no apparent reason. Turns out it was metal geared so I'll order a replacement from HK. The driver figure now has a British Denison smock and airborne helmet so I'll get him finished and fitted soon.

[mr crispy]

Found this in my inbox this morning from my brother. Looks like someone else fitted Maverick Scout running gear into a Dragon 1/6 Jeep kit.

Now I don't know about you but I think those kit wheels look pants on a moving car. I admit it doesn't help that the chassis is riding a bit high and he could do with axle wideners but I'm feeling a lot happier about my chunky Flatiron tyres now

[mongoose1983]

Wow, that WILLYS' totally WILD!

Excellent work!!!

[JennyMo]

After a bit of a false start thanks to muggins here picking an old knackered servo from the spares box (which had the little fella glitching like Max Headroom) rather than a new one, I've now got the driver figure sorted. Pretty simple system using a rod running from the servo horn and into a hole in the figures arm. The head is mounted on a alum tube which sits inside a larger tube fixed inside the torso. A 2nd rod attaches to a cut down servo horn on the end of the "head" tube. The steering wheel was drilled out and a standard Tamiya stepped screw holds it in place with a washer so it'll spin easily. This way I only need to hide the rod into the arm (which will pass through the jackets sleeve later) instead of a rod running upto the steering wheel. The servo lead will run down a trouser leg and through A hole in the firewall.

But enough chat, watch the video to see the result!

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e323/crispy7480/00a6cf17.mp4

Nic

Awesome idea! - and fantastic execution!

Jx

[JeepnMike]

That looks fantastic!!