DT-02: How to secure screw pins on the suspension arms

[GregM 1109]

I think everybody who owns a DT-02 knows that screw pins can be a pain in the neck, as some of those have a tendency to unscew themselves during runs.
Especially those pins on the front suspension arms are tough to reach for re-fixing them, as the bumper/skid plate is in the way. So you need to unscrew 7 screws on the bottom, just to get one or two scew pins back in place. Even if you didn't overtighten the pins during assembly, they will get loose overtime.

I got a helpful advice from another R/C forum: Take a piece of 3mm welding rod and bend it into U-shape. Cut the ends to the right length and use that U-rod instead of the screw pins on front.

I use this at the Sand Viper, and it's great indeed.

I'm not sure about how to replace the screw pins at the rear for something better, though.

[speedy_w_beans 4272]

The DF02 chassis comes with this U-shaped hinge pin in place of screw pins. The DF02 hinge pin measures 43mm center to center, where the DT02 measures 35mm center to center, so unfortunately you can't use one in place of the other.

People have also made their own replacement DF02 hinge pins a little longer and tied the ends into the tub chassis to increase the strength of the suspension arm mounts. This same idea could be adapted to the DT02 as well.

One other thing I did to avoid disassembling the front end over and over -- I used a 3mm screw instead of a 2.6mm screw with my servo; this provided more bite and it loosened less frequently.

I still had problems with the rear screw pins loosening and even the front damper screw pins loosening. The best cure for screw pins? Get a DN01 or a DB01!

-Paul

[waterbok 1282]

Try these Tamiya 53301 TL01 Suspension Shaft Set Stainless Steel, you can get them in several lenght. Depending on which car model TL01/TA03/TA04 etc. you will find the ones that will fit the DT02. (they even come in titanium)

[markbt73 5315]

Yep, that U-shaped lower arm mount is an old design dating back to the Manta Ray, maybe even earlier. I always really liked the idea, simplifies disassembly and adds strength at the same time by bracing the suspension arms against one another. Never thought of making one for other chassis, though, good idea.

[DCLXVI 3]

I can't remember how I solved it, I know that I drilled the holes in the arms out and put brass pipe in there for less flex though...

[TA-Mark 195]

A touch of superglue under the head of the screw pin just before it's tightened completely stops them backing out. You don't want superglue on the smooth part of the pin of course. Pins with e-clips both ends are the best solution like the mentioned TL01 #53301 set.

This also works for step screws that the dampers and sometimes plastic upper links are mounted on. Touch of superglue in the hole before fitting the step screw and they don't fall out when running.

If you are ever re-fitting a screw or pin that has been superglued to lock it in place, ALWAYS clean any dry glue from both the hole and the screw before re-fitting the screw or pin back into the hole. Failing to clean away dried up glue will result in splitting out the hole.

[apsilon 0]

Not familiar with that chassis but some searching should turn up hinge pins the right size that use e clips. That's what I normally do and have just done with my new Super Hotshot.

[Thommo 1217]

The front bumper will bend down enough to get a screwdriver on the front screw pins so you don't have to remove the front bumper if your not completely removing the pins.

I have just backed out the screw pins enough to get a little dab of threadlock on the threads and re-fastened. I know that people don't like using threadlock on plastic but I've taken a punt and will see how it goes.

[GregM 1109]

Not sure if threadlock on plastic threads is a good idea, from my point of view this won't hold the screw pin anyway, as threadlock is made for metal screw to metal threadhole connections only. Even more as threadlock is said to attack plastic, which would result in damaged plastic threadholes.

Use superglue or UHU "Plast Liquid" glue instead. The UHU Plast glue will help narrowing the plastic thread hole while still making disassembly easy, as it won't stick permanently to the metal screw.

Bending the bumper down with force repeatedly may stress the material and other screw holes a lot.

I've just equipped my second DT-02 car (Holiday Buggy 2010) with a welding rod brace, too.

[Thommo 1217]

Not sure if threadlock on plastic threads is a good idea, from my point of view this won't hold the screw pin anyway, as threadlock is made for metal screw to metal threadhole connections only. Even more as threadlock is said to attack plastic, which would result in damaged plastic threadholes.

Use superglue or UHU "Plast Liquid" glue instead. The UHU Plast glue will help narrowing the plastic thread hole while still making disassembly easy, as it won't stick permanently to the metal screw.

Bending the bumper down with force repeatedly may stress the material and other screw holes a lot.

I've just equipped my second DT-02 car (Holiday Buggy 2010) with a welding rod brace, too.

Yeah I'm picking up what your putting down. Your DF01/TA01 style "U" brace is the go. Looks like some plastic friendly hobby glue is going on the shopping list too.

[GregM 1109]

I apologize. It wasn't my intend to offend you.

[Thommo 1217]

No offense taken friend. Good thread and a good post I thought. :0)

[fordsam 1]

It will be the same pins that come loose so I put them in from the other side of the control arm. One side the suspension loosens the pins the other side it tries to tighten them

[hotshot boy 0]

Not sure if threadlock on plastic threads is a good idea, from my point of view this won't hold the screw pin anyway, as threadlock is made for metal screw to metal threadhole connections only. Even more as threadlock is said to attack plastic, which would result in damaged plastic threadholes.

Use superglue or UHU "Plast Liquid" glue instead. The UHU Plast glue will help narrowing the plastic thread hole while still making disassembly easy, as it won't stick permanently to the metal screw.

Bending the bumper down with force repeatedly may stress the material and other screw holes a lot.

I've just equipped my second DT-02 car (Holiday Buggy 2010) with a welding rod brace, too.

Tamiya threadlock (the blue stuff) is plastic friendly BUT its not the best for strength..

I am going to use your idea here though, as I am forever screwing them back in even though I super glue them regularly.. I tried a pin with "c" clips and it kept coming of ("C" clips kept springing off lol) as I run mine race trim and HARD.....!!! Just the way intended and have minimal issues with the rest of the car...

[GregM 1109]

Use superglue or UHU "Plast Liquid" glue instead. The UHU Plast glue will help narrowing the plastic thread hole while still making disassembly easy, as it won't stick permanently to the metal screw.

Did that to all remaining screw pins and all the front bumper's tapping screws when I recently fitted a 12T / 3380 kV brushless system to the Sand Viper. I had cleaned the screw holes before, of course. After glueing, I let it cure for 2 days.

To be honest, this procedure was a hint that I got from a member of another R/C forum, and I wasn't sure if this would really permanently fix the problem. I tried this before, but apparently didn't applied enough glue to the threads, so this time I used plenty of glue (while being careful not to glue the threadless pin shafts).

After 6 packs of 2s/5000mAh LiPo, Stadium Blitzer tires and a lot of jumps, I was glad how well the screws and screw pins still kept in place. Without the glue, most of the screws would have been already come loose after the first battery pack.

[GregM 1109]

Try these Tamiya 53301 TL01 Suspension Shaft Set Stainless Steel, you can get them in several lenght. Depending on which car model TL01/TA03/TA04 etc. you will find the ones that will fit the DT02. (they even come in titanium)

That sounds good. The screw pins that are still in use on my DT-02 are 3x46, 3x32 and 3x22. If I'm searching for steel shaft hinge pins with e-clips, how is their length specified? Is it the total length, or from clip groove to clip groove?

The replacement for the 3x22 screw pins should be Tamiya #54395, as far as I can see.

[waterbok 1282]

I think its clip to clip but I can measure some for you later on.

[beefmuffin 1156]

hi dudes this may be slightly off topic but it is DT-02 related. i've seen some aluminum uprights for the DT-02 and they look like they'd fit most buggies that use a similar style of upright but the listing only lists DT-02 as compatible. i'm not feeling as experimental as usual so can anyone with a DT-02 tell me if they think the uprights are the same as say a hornet or fighter buggy or something?

EDIT: Oops yeah, just Fighter Buggy - no 'G'...

[GregM 1109]

hi dudes this may be slightly off topic but it is DT-02 related. i've seen some aluminum uprights for the DT-02 and they look like they'd fit most buggies that use a similar style of upright but the listing only lists DT-02 as compatible. i'm not feeling as experimental as usual so can anyone with a DT-02 tell me if they think the uprights are the same as say a hornet or fighter buggy G or something?

I've got these:

http://www.tamiyaclu...66

The Hornet and DT-01 Fighter Buggy RX (I think this is what you're meaning with "Fighter Buggy G", as the Super Fighter G is on the DT-02-chassis) are using single A-arm suspension at front, with fixed uprights. You can convert the DT-01 to double wishbones and seperate c-hubs:

http://www.tamiyaclu...showtopic=68731

The Hornet should work in a similar way.

At the rear, the DT-01 and Hornet uses a solid axle, there's no (straightforward) way for converting them to double wishbone.

I'm not sure if the DT-02 front c-hubs and rear uprights will fit other vehicles as well.

EDIT: You're not talking about the front steering knuckles, are you?

[beefmuffin 1156]

well specifically i'm talking about these: http://www.ebay.com/itm/200891308884

and whether they are more or less a bolt-on replacement for the likes of these:

http://www.ebay.com/...3-/140910993821

http://www.ebay.com/...y-/310377706399

(although this one i guess is obvious)

http://www.ebay.com/...2-/130842936106

etc

[GregM 1109]

So you WERE talking about the steering knuckles at all!

1. Those alloy steering knuckles you found seem to be compatible with any Tamiya 2WD buggy that uses #0555059 knuckle set. They're not just restricted to the DT-02 chassis.

2. Beware, there's another type of steering knuckle, which looks similar at first glance, but it isn't the same. We're talking about the left & right knuckles #0445169 and #0445207. They have longer stub axles than the regular knuckles, and you'll find them on a lot of Tamiya's older 2WD Monster Trucks and Stadium Trucks.

3. You can't use straight knuckles for your Hornet. They have to be angled as with many other re-released or vintage Tamiya 2WD buggys, otherwise they will bind with the Hornet's stock 3-piece-wheels. There are angled alloy knuckles available from manufacturers like Junfac. As soon as you change the stock wheels to modern 2.2" wheels, you are free to use straight knuckles, if you feel the urgent need for this. But they will affect your steering linkage lengths and rod end cup sizes, so keep that in mind.

And here's my own opinion: I wouldn't mess with alloy knuckles, as long as there's no good reason to use them (like cars just for show). I've never managed to break one of the nylon plastic knuckles so far.

[waterbok 1282]

top to bottom (inside clips)

45,5mm (TL01/DF01)

34mm (TL01/DF01)

30,5mm (DF01)

22mm (TL01/DF01)

[shenlonco 1156]

just put a dab of goop glue on the threadhead part and screw it in and wipe the excess goop glue off around the screw head.... that's wht i do.

[alfagta 126]

It will be the same pins that come loose so I put them in from the other side of the control arm. One side the suspension loosens the pins the other side it tries to tighten them

yip, really quite simple , unless its impossible to get them in from the other side , a good smear of grease helps too as the corrosion increases the diameter of the pin causing it to bind in the fixed part of the pivot which can unscrew the pin .

[GregM 1109]

@Waterbok: Thank you very much.

Well, I ended up with ordering some stainless steel 3mm rod and stainless e-clips to fabricate the shafts on my own. I guess some of my other cars may benefit from that, too.