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4x4 Chris

Tamiya ta-03rs motor choice

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Hi everyone, I have a ta-03rs from the early 90's. I wanted to know if the tamiya RZ super stock 23T motor is too powerful to put in this chassis. The motor is listed as having 27,500 rpm with 500g/cm torque. This motor seem to be far faster than most tamiya motors that were out in the early 90's. I do not want to damage the drivetrain. Is this motor acceptable? Thanks for any help?

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Hi everyone, I have a ta-03rs from the early 90's. I wanted to know if the tamiya RZ super stock 23T motor is too powerful to put in this chassis. The motor is listed as having 27,500 rpm with 500g/cm torque. This motor seem to be far faster than most tamiya motors that were out in the early 90's. I do not want to damage the drivetrain. Is this motor acceptable? Thanks for any help?

I've got an 11T in a Ta03f-s so you should be fine with the 23T

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I run a brushless MambaMax 5700Kv (~42,000rpm) in one TA03F and a 4600Kv in the other. No issues with driveline strength.

Two things though, be sure to only use steel pinions, and the chassis is fully ball raced. The kit pinion IS NOT steel. Tamiya AV pinions (0.6 module) are aluminium.

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Regarding the Tamiya RZ Super Stock 23T, 500 g/cm is the torque at best efficiency, the max torque is about 1900 g/cm. And 27500 rpm is the best performance, at no load.

Just for example: the Trinity P2K, a stock motor made about 13 years ago (dynoed with a Robitronic ProMaster dyno) has 630 g/cm of torque at best efficiency (73,8%) and a max torque of 2035 g/cm, and this motor is only a 27 (single) turns...

The others performances are: 142 watts and 27760 rpm

The Tamiya stock 540 motor performances are: 1942 g/cm of max torque, and 75,5 watts of max power.

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The Tamiya stock 540 motor performances are: 1942 g/cm of max torque, and 75,5 watts of max power.

Mabuchi list the RS540SH (the common stock Tamiya 540 motor) as being:

On 9.6V @ maximum efficiency: 20,040rpm, 316g/cm and 64.9watts. Max rpm is 23,400rpm with no load. Torque at stall is 2202g/cm.

On 7.2V @ maximum efficiency: 15,030rpm, 237g/cm and 48.7watts. Max rpm is 17,550rpm with no load. Torque at stall is 1651g/cm.

The other common stock Tamiya 540 is the Johnson, and it's specs are very similar to the RS540SH.

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Mabuchi list the RS540SH (the common stock Tamiya 540 motor) as being:

On 9.6V @ maximum efficiency: 20,040rpm, 316g/cm and 64.9watts. Max rpm is 23,400rpm with no load. Torque at stall is 2202g/cm.

On 7.2V @ maximum efficiency: 15,030rpm, 237g/cm and 48.7watts. Max rpm is 17,550rpm with no load. Torque at stall is 1651g/cm.

The other common stock Tamiya 540 is the Johnson, and it's specs are very similar to the RS540SH.

Thats wrong... since volt isnt mathematical you cannot just asume that a 9,6v motor will be 75% at 7.2v... i suggest you to use the simulation chart to see which data you will get. here it is:

at 7,2v:

14,710 rpm at best efficiency

268 g-cm torque at 14,710 rpm

no load rpm: 17,550 rpm

stall current draw 42.8 amps

current 8.27 amps at max eff

current 1.6 amps at no load

Output power 40.4 watts

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Thats wrong... since volt isnt mathematical you cannot just asume that a 9,6v motor will be 75% at 7.2v... i suggest you to use the simulation chart to see which data you will get. here it is:

at 7,2v:

14,710 rpm at best efficiency

268 g-cm torque at 14,710 rpm

no load rpm: 17,550 rpm

stall current draw 42.8 amps

current 8.27 amps at max eff

current 1.6 amps at no load

Output power 40.4 watts

If this be the case, then Mabuchi's own spec sheets are incorrect, as that is where I copied the data from. Where is your data from? Third party testing?

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Hi everyone, I have a ta-03rs from the early 90's. I wanted to know if the tamiya RZ super stock 23T motor is too powerful to put in this chassis. The motor is listed as having 27,500 rpm with 500g/cm torque. This motor seem to be far faster than most tamiya motors that were out in the early 90's. I do not want to damage the drivetrain. Is this motor acceptable? Thanks for any help?

The drivetrain will handle that motor just fine. I had a brushless motor doing close to 65,000 rpm in mine for speed runs without any gear issues.

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If this be the case, then Mabuchi's own spec sheets are incorrect, as that is where I copied the data from. Where is your data from? Third party testing?

nah, not if your using the chart simulation ;) just click on the "6527(*1)" and set the voltage to 7.2 http://www.mabuchi-m...CAT_ID=rs_540sh

where did you got your data from?! ;)

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where did you got your data from?! ;)

From a pdf I got from thier site years ago. That one you linked is new. Revised spec sheets are always more accurate to the current production.

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There's morons everywhere... this one just emailed me...

Hi!

I noticed you^ve had a discussion with member xismxist in the ^TA03R-S motor choice^ thread. I reckon it must be painful and very embarrassing to be proved wrong about physics this basic for a person like you, who permanently pretends to be an allknowing God?

Btw, can^t please stop the constant repeating of the ******** about aluminum vs. steel pinions. You just make a fool of yourself, even though some idiots obviously believe you.

Have a nice weekend!

Aurel

Reply address is faked of course.

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I use hardcoated and/or 7075 aluminum pinions personally...lol. Never saw a need for steel pinions unless the spur is steel.

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I use hardcoated and/or 7075 aluminum pinions personally...lol. Never saw a need for steel pinions unless the spur is steel.

Hard coated or 7075 pinions seem to be fine. Shame these are not the same grade aluminium as the butter that's supplied in the kit (0.6m 0.8m).

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I'd go for a steel pinion, too. :) At least Tamiya doesn't dare to ship their cars with plastic pinions, as Kyosho does with some of their 1/10 scale offroad buggies.

On a German forum dedicated to Tamiya's DT-01 and DT-02 cars (where they are commonly called Fighter Buggys), some members tested a lot of brushed motors using a R/C motor testing device. They posted the results in a thread. I've entered the results in a chart and provided it for download (motordaten.pdf) at:

http://www.fighterte...4e2ddde43#20223

(The chart is written up in German, but I think it's not difficult to understand though. Please note: Some data is shown in italics: That means that these are carried over from another thread of Tamiyaclub's forum. They are only used for a comparison to the tested data from the Fighterteam forum.)

volt isnt mathematical

Uhm... I'm not sure if I understand what you want to say with that.

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I'd go for a steel pinion, too. :) At least Tamiya doesn't dare to ship their cars with plastic pinions, as Kyosho does with some of their 1/10 scale offroad buggies.

I'd rather have a plastic pinion than the soft aluminum ones that Tamiya includes with their kits...reason being the plastic pinions don't do damage to plastic spurs. The soft aluminum pinions leave an abrasive powder when they wear which destroys spurs .

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I'd rather have a plastic pinion than the soft aluminum ones that Tamiya includes with their kits...reason being the plastic pinions don't do damage to plastic spurs. The soft aluminum pinions leave an abrasive powder when they wear which destroys spurs .

And the teeth on the butter pinions wear to sharp points in a short time which cuts the spur gear up. A steel or hard coated aluminium pinion will do the same eventually, you just get 10 times the use out of it before it's past it's used by date.

The only real problem with plastic pinions is if the motor gets a touch warm then the motor shaft melts the centre of the pinion. They go a bit wobbly after that.

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