Jump to content

Recommended Posts

The original hi-cap kit upper spacers were 3mm thick. Not 100% sure why they brought it down to 1.5mm. I would guess it makes the upper mount stronger/stiffer giving the damper itself less leverage over the screw.

As for the counter-sunk screw holes, the original mount was the same without them so could flip it upside down to clear the Vanquish body. There is no interference with the upper links (no matter how you mounted them). Remember, this is where the original dampers mounted with a large nut. I think it just has to do with increased strength & stiffness as well. Tamiya started this trend on the 416 I think.

Sunset-9.jpg

Sunset-1.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Rear Hi-Caps are 88mm centre of eye to centre of eye when built as per instructions.

And boy are they smooth in action - even with the seemingly heavy 900 oil :wub: :wub: :wub:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I found it quite amusing that the Mad Bull's original kitbox and manual (maybe not on the re-re box with same ref-no.) had the expensive Hi-Cap dampers mentioned as hop-ups, but no sign of the cheaper C.V.A.s. Now that the Hi-Caps are re-released, I could add them to the Bull....

...not? :D

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Man that would sure class it up though. No car is too cheap for good/great shocks. lol

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

<p>

Man that would sure class it up though. No car is too cheap for good/great shocks. lol

Yesterday I bought a second hand Midnight Pumpkin with the cpr p-160f unit and Dyna Storm shocks installed, so "No car is too cheap for good/great shocks" :-)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

And the DS shocks are even better than the hi-caps (imo). More modern aeration design + Teflon cylinder liners + beautiful Tamiya alloy. The perfect storm. Too bad they never made mini's of them. These shocks are the only reason I want to get a Top Force.

DynaStorm4.jpg

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

And the DS shocks are even better than the hi-caps (imo). More modern aeration design + Teflon cylinder liners + beautiful Tamiya alloy. The perfect storm. Too bad they never made mini's of them. These shocks are the only reason I want to get a Top Force.

I find it interesting that the Hi-Caps are on the Dyna Storm box as a Hop-Up... I'm not sure I'd ever swap them out on that chassis.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Can somebody provide the length of both eye to eye? Cheers

I just measured mine. I believe they are buildt correctly.Front: 69mm, Rear: 89mm

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I find it interesting that the Hi-Caps are on the Dyna Storm box as a Hop-Up... I'm not sure I'd ever swap them out on that chassis.

I could only come up with one good reason to put Hi-Caps on a DS..... If you painted it silver!

http://www.tamiyaclu...d=59398&id=9734

http://www.tamiyaclu...d=25345&id=5964

http://www.tamiyaclu...=58006&id=16729

or maybe red

4.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Oh boy - I would surely love a DynaStorm Re-Re-Release, and if it's just for the amazing looks of the high, angled front shock layout!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Oh boy - I would surely love a DynaStorm Re-Re-Release, and if it's just for the amazing looks of the high, angled front shock layout!

One of the best looking, if not the best looking buggy in my opinion. I just picked up a NIB original for a steal. Both original and re-re pop up every now and again and I'm confused as to why they often sell for so little (i.e. <US$350).

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Rear Hi-Caps are 88mm centre of eye to centre of eye when built as per instructions.

And boy are they smooth in action - even with the seemingly heavy 900 oil :wub: :wub: :wub:

I just measured mine. I believe they are buildt correctly.Front: 69mm, Rear: 89mm

Thanks guys, now I just need Stella or banzai to get them back in stock :(

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

One of the best looking, if not the best looking buggy in my opinion. I just picked up a NIB original for a steal. Both original and re-re pop up every now and again and I'm confused as to why they often sell for so little (i.e. <US$350).

I saw a NIB re-re go for ~$90us once. It was only a couple years ago....

....and I missed it!!! :wacko: I was kicking myself. But about that same time I did manage to get a NIB Acto Pink motor for $9. ^_^ You win some, you loose some.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I built my set at last and fitted them to my favourite vintage platform, Astute.... 2 months ago I had most of this chassis but no dampers and Hi-Caps were'nt an option. Thanks for this one Mr T :D

The front set even came with a carbon fibre brace for the vunerable Astute rear bulkhead. Lucky fit.

AstuteRunner240912004_zps65919443.jpg

AstuteRunner240912002_zps603c8af2.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Nice work Thommo - i've built one set of front and rears, but not fitted them to my Astute yet - very timely post and a great tip for the rear brace ;). Many thanks :D

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Only tested mine on the work bench so hardly scientific. I had concerns about the supplied 900wt oil, far thicker than anything i've used in buggies previously (only my heavyweight Clod project uses more than 45wt silicone oil). Once built they actually feel very smooth and the heavy oil doesn't seem too much of an issue - i'd like to try 600 or 700 wt though.

Drawing comparison with the originals will be very diffiult, I bet there aren't any sets in use that are still using the original spec oil.

When i eventually install a set onto to my Astute I think i'll be using some 40 or 45wt silicone oil initially and see how it goes. I have two sets of the rears to go onto the Top Force rebuild too :D 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I would guess they are using 900 oil to offset the designs lack of rebound & pack. The original units didn't come with oil, so a direct comparison is kinda difficult. You can only go off the kit instructed setup of the Egress or TF Evo. Smoothness most likely depends on how well the pistons were separated from the sprue.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The fill method for the rere also allows some air space, so the 900wt oil is probably performing slightly softer than the label.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

On the Astute I used 300 on front and 600 on the rear dampers.

MAx

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hey max and others. What hole pistons are you using. I built up 2 sets of rears for my manta ray with top force shock towers. Ended up running 2 hole pistons fr and rr and 40wt front, 35wt rear with losi front springs holding the car from bottoming out. The losi fronts fit perfectly on the rear hi caps. This thread has gone a bit quiet but I was pleasantly suprised how quickly I was able to dial the manta ray in with these shocks. I'll have the astute set on soon.

Also most places are out of stock, anyone know if more are coming?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I remember 3 holes front and rear with 30 (300) on front and 60 (600) on rear end. Original springs. The car was the Astute.

I don't remember on the Egress and on the Top Force Evo but I suppose a similar set up with 40 (400) on front and 50 (500) on rear.

Egress has Losi red spring on front and dark green on rear.

Top Force Evo has light blue on front and light green on rear.

On the Dyna Blaster light green on front and light blue on rear, 3 holes both and 300 front and 600 rear.

Our track in Italy is dirty and very bumpy. I used heavy Ni-Mh battery packs. With modern Li-Po batteries everything changes.

Max

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×
×
  • Create New...