speedy_w_beans 4270 Posted August 1, 2012 This seems like a nicely designed, purpose-built drift chassis. RCMart is listing them for $127 USD preorder right now, which seems like an amazing price considering its specs. It ticks all the right boxes with front weight bias, near zero Ackerman steering, locked diffs, and rear axle overdrive (countersteer). The suspension has been designed with a lot of adjustability and steering angle in mind. http://os.3racing.hk...kits_web_key=18 The rear diffuser seems like an unnecessary flourish; hopefully that isn't part of the structure and can be left off. I'm also curious what bodies will fit with the motor pushing the front bumper forward. This pretty much obsoletes any TT01 front motor/dual motor conversion project I was thinking about, and seriously undercuts the TA05VDF and TB03VDS. I've had good success ordering 3Racing parts from RCMart, so this might very well be my next drift chassis. -Paul Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
speedy_w_beans 4270 Posted September 17, 2012 First reports aren't looking that good. The front and center belts are too loose and wear quickly. Steering has a ton of slop. The dampers have weak springs and are leaking a little. The spur needs reinforcement. I think I'll stick with my TT01 and continue modifying it. -Paul Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WillyChang 1812 Posted September 17, 2012 its none too shabby, definitely far superior to a TT01. 3Racing's plastics are dense & very tough. not quite fair to compare to TRFs & other CF+alloy beasts Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
speedy_w_beans 4270 Posted September 17, 2012 Still, out of the box I don't expect a kit to have a wobbly spur, leaky dampers, weak springs, or shred belts. That's too many problems to have to fix out of the box with only a few hours of run time. Hopefully more people post their build and driving experiences so we can see if this is a systematic problem or just isolated to a minority of people. -Paul Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
speedy_w_beans 4270 Posted November 12, 2013 Willy, now that you're back, did you ever run this chassis? What did you think of it? RCMart has these for $79 now, so they're almost in impulse buy territory... The thread on RCTech has been running for the full year; people are still playing with them... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WillyChang 1812 Posted November 13, 2013 Willy, now that you're back, did you ever run this chassis? What did you think of it? RCMart has these for $79 now, so they're almost in impulse buy territory... The thread on RCTech has been running for the full year; people are still playing with them... ya I have a runner (front oneway), another built (trying a Sakura gear diff but it fouls the belt) and a 3rd waiting for future tinkering. That's as far as I got before got kidnapped by aliens... the pre built kits were just about shipping then I think. worth the $$ if you're able to diagnose & fix any issues yourself. Or pay a few bud more for pre built, spare your tarsals. CS 210% ain't easy to drive, needs proper handling tuning. was dusting it off recently to see if it can be repulleyed to 50:50, would make a decent chassis better than a TT02 or TT01 even. CVDs & oil shocks, none too shabby. Can't remember what hopup bits had arrived for it, I know we were thinking of alloy pulleys and a belt guide/tensioner thingy. They're somewhere Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
danb1974 93 Posted November 13, 2013 From what I've read you better get the front one way (and maybe the wide angle cvds) before you start changing front belts. Front spool + large steering angles = ugly vibrations near full lock = great stress on the front belt Pitty almost nobody warns you about using a front spool - only saw a note by yokomo on the drift package type c, they say when you buy the steering upgrade (which gives you more angle) that you should also get the one way to avoid steering chatter. As more expensive drift machines have the oneway as stock, problem only appears on the cheap ones that come with spool. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WillyChang 1812 Posted November 13, 2013 front oneway diff also "tames" it down a bit; with spool it's just about crabbing from rolling start... which is a tad unnatural, can't even buildup some straight line speed for inertia Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
danb1974 93 Posted November 13, 2013 Not sure if CS drift car and driving in a straight line should be in the same sentence You don't have to build up speed to drift, just get a decent sensored brushless combo, don't try with a silver can, actually don't try with any kind of brushed motor. From standstill turn the wheel, hit the gas and the car will drift instantly. You may want to consider a rally car if you like rally style driving / drifting combination. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WillyChang 1812 Posted January 2, 2014 Not sure if CS drift car and driving in a straight line should be in the same sentence with the spool in front... its more like going sideways, but in a straight line = can't make the corner I like it with more ability to flick the tail out when needed. depends on your local track i guess, could work if its real tight technical & cars run walking pace like some groups do down here there's wider flowing layouts, with 12-15' straights linking in between corners. Usually each track would take an area of 6-8 car spaces. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tizer 604 Posted January 8, 2014 Maybe a bit late to this topic, but I have one too I use as a FWD racer, to go up against my friends FF03's. I was very impressed by the kit. It is very well equipped. It has some bugs, for sure. Spurgear mount and the plastic centerpulleys are not a strong parts and I recommend replacing them with aluminium hopup parts. I have also added aluminium hex hubs for convinience and grubscrews as droopscrews to make it easier to work on. As I'm using it as a FWD I've gone for a Sakura S geardiff in the front and left out all the rear driveline. The geardiff isn't a direct fit but easy enough to make it fit. I also swapped the springs for TRF's and the c-hubs from 10* caster to 4* caster. A few shims here and there and it is a great runner!If you want to drift it, I recommend getting proper drift springs (RC926 springs are awesome!), a oneway diff for the front, a central belt tentioner and some different size pulley's to reduce the overdrive. It comes stock with 2.14 overdrive, which is too much. 1.5-1.8 is a much better ratio. It will make it easier to control, faster and with the right technique you can countersteer perfectly with it. Trust me on that.I've posted my build thread on my blog. I wanted to make a part 2 for it, but never got to it. The car is a lot quicker on our local track than the FF03's, so I'm very happy with it.http://wreckitsideways.com/2013/02/20/build-3racing-sakura-d3-part-1/ Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WillyChang 1812 Posted January 9, 2014 haha you're the 1st I've heard running it in FWD Has anybody done the sums what pulleys work for 50:50, 1.5 & 1.8? Preferably using the stock belts... if gotta buy pulleys anyway, belts can keep to std. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WillyChang 1812 Posted April 15, 2017 Anybody still tinkering with the D3? Dug out & dusted mine off tonite, it's been left just as described above halfway thru nutting out how to either reduce the CS or make it into a 50:50. It's since had installed:- Alloy rear layshaft holder with tensioner (original plastic has no tensioner) CF shock towers (original plastic warps) Alloy steering rack for wider angle all made by 3Racing, all very pink Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
berman 5315 Posted April 16, 2017 I was more than happy with mine @ 2:14, I had a few of the 3racing upgrades, wide angle driveshafts and steering rack (go hand in hand), from memory purple and pink springs (hardest and second hardest) rear belt alloy tensioner and sakura sport centre tensioner, alloy spur mount, all alloy pulleys etc. Speed passion esc and their dokyo 10.5t sensored motor. Oh and 100ish gm of tyre weights on the diffuser mount to slow the rear swing. I sold it as I had planned to go rwd the next season (most of club was switching) but had a baby daughter so no time. Great car, just needed some bits out of the box. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WillyChang 1812 Posted April 17, 2017 4 hours ago, berman said: ....but had a baby daughter so no time. They grow up soon they'll be old enough to play RC then you'll be looking to build fleets for all to play together! Hence me looking at the D3s... so far have accumulated 1 runner, 1 newbuilt, 1 unbuilt plus about 2 lots of vital hopups. They are so PINK. If there was a cheap reliable simple way of making them into a easy2drive track hack on rubber tyres I could built a fleet of 3. Very PINK trio. Might try FWD maybe... that could be cheapest unless tyre wear is really bad. Or if I can just change the rear layshaft's larger pulley to a small 13t, that'll make it 50:50 but I'll probably need a new shorter belt. How short... well that was half the reason why #2 got built, still WiP. So far no one has reported doing 50:50 that I can find online. Lost interest in sliding these after eyeballs got seared out by the PINK. (and there's a RWD D4 on the pile) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WillyChang 1812 Posted April 17, 2017 4 hours ago, berman said: I was more than happy with mine @ 2:14, I had a few of the 3racing upgrades, wide angle driveshafts and steering rack (go hand in hand), from memory purple and pink springs (hardest and second hardest) rear belt alloy tensioner and sakura sport centre tensioner, alloy spur mount, all alloy pulleys etc. Speed passion esc and their dokyo 10.5t sensored motor. Runner is using XERUN 10.5 sensored that was previously in a VDF, yeah it's about just right powerwise. Did you run stock spools both ends? Mine is oneway front diff. I've always favoured a front ball/geardiff plus oneway in transmission; bought Zero gear diff and it fouls the centre belt so had to use oneway diff. Adds to the twitchiness I feel. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
berman 5315 Posted April 17, 2017 Haha now have a 2 week old son as well, so even less time. Yeah I had the front one way, bought it when i bought the car, just forgot. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites