Jump to content
tamiya monkey

Tamiya Chassis Lipo compatibility

Recommended Posts

On 25 July 2016 at 4:10 PM, Roasty said:

Cool, I've ordered one and a DT03 so should find out soon :) 

 

thanks for the help 👍🏻👍🏻

Well it fits just fine, a little tight but that due to the foam blocks on the DT03 battery compartment.

 

 

image.jpeg

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

well I've finished the body, not the best but it will do :)

 

Ive added 20g of weight at the front, 1x5g either side of the chassis on the out side, 1x5g infront of the servo saver and 1x5g under the servo, hopefully it will make the steering a bit better :). I've also added a few shims in places to take out the slop and also put heat shrink around the shock fixings to take out the slop on the shock :)

 

Oh, and some Exotec wing buttons :)

 

 

IMG_0927-M.jpgIMG_0926-M.jpgIMG_0925-M.jpgIMG_0928-M.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Love seeing all of the creativity in fitting batteries here.

I remember when I bought my HPI Cup Racer people said- nice car but you can't put a standard 2S in it.... that's why they didn't sell.

That's close-minded, i've been running undersized packs (lighter=faster) and round-cell shaped packs in it to much joy.

I'm fond of the Reedy WolfPack 751 for emulating round-cell packs.  I've run it in my Cup Racer, XRay T1 and soon my TA05, M04, etc.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Any ideea of a battery from hobbyking's EU warehouse stock that fits the CC-01? Only has to be 2S, no need for hardcase or high C or a specific connector. I now run a small 2200 with some foam to keep it in place, it's ok-ish but a larger one wouldn't hurt.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 07/09/2016 at 4:10 PM, firefoxussr said:

Love seeing all of the creativity in fitting batteries here.

I remember when I bought my HPI Cup Racer people said- nice car but you can't put a standard 2S in it.... that's why they didn't sell.

That's close-minded, i've been running undersized packs (lighter=faster) and round-cell shaped packs in it to much joy.

I'm fond of the Reedy WolfPack 751 for emulating round-cell packs.  I've run it in my Cup Racer, XRay T1 and soon my TA05, M04, etc.

Reedy Wolfpack 751 doesn't seem to be imported into UK unfortunately. Jamara pack is a rediculous price in UK. The Yuki Brainergy pack is 40 quid from Germany with the postage. Core 293 pack is about 40 quid with the postage from ModelSport, and 38 quid from Schumacher with the postage. Wow, after all this time, surely there is a cheaper option for a compatible Lipo to fit my Tamiya old and re-re Frog?

Regards,

Alistair G.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
4 minutes ago, Live Steam Mad said:

Reedy Wolfpack 751 doesn't seem to be imported into UK unfortunately. Jamara pack is a rediculous price in UK. The Yuki Brainergy pack is 40 quid from Germany with the postage. Core 293 pack is about 40 quid with the postage from ModelSport, and 38 quid from Schumacher with the postage. Wow, after all this time, surely there is a cheaper option for a compatible Lipo to fit my Tamiya old and re-re Frog?

Regards,

Alistair G.

Just get a non-hardcase that is a bit smaller.  Unless you're racing, it's a better deal.  More capacity, lighter, no problem.  

Also here is what I did for the HPI Cup Racer- I measured what a roundpack is in millimeters, then bought something about that size and used velcro to self strap it to the car.  

Pics if interested: http://www.rctech.net/forum/13660268-post3310.html

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hello! ...I have a question about this lipo battery https://hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-nano-tech-4200mah-2s2p-40-80c-hardcase-stick-pack.html ...it is probably the best battery regarding the capacity and C rating that it fits in Tamiya TL01 chassis? ...if I had the 19T pinion gear in motor shaft it is ok?...it wont overheating the battery pack? ...what about the storage and charging...has anyone got some fire experiance? ...the best way to storage the battery is in the fire retardant bag? ...what is the time periode to charging the battery during the time when you are not use it? ...I dont know what is best 2S1P or 2S2P...serial vs paralell series of cells? ...thanks. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hello! ...I have a question about this lipo battery https://hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-nano-tech-4200mah-2s2p-40-80c-hardcase-stick-pack.html ...it is probably the best battery regarding the capacity and C rating that it fits in Tamiya TL01 chassis? ...if I had the 19T pinion gear in motor shaft it is ok?...it wont overheating the battery pack? ...what about the storage and charging...has anyone got some fire experiance? ...the best way to storage the battery is in the fire retardant bag? ...what is the time periode to charging the battery during the time when you are not use it? ...I dont know what is best 2S1P or 2S2P...serial vs paralell series of cells? ...thanks. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have a couple on they are tight in the WT-01 and DT-01 chassis but will fit. The problem is in muddy water the tiny bits of dirt wash in and make them to tight to get out.

Never owned a TL so I cannot comment.

Lipo should be able to be stored at storage voltage almost indefinitely without damage. I store mine in a modern army ammo tin, I guess they are less explosive than 50 cal shells.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Tamiya WRC, have a look at the max. length of your battery compartment. As discussed in this thread, the majority of stickpack shaped LiPos have a length of 138 mm, which may exceed the available compartment space. A minority of manufacturers offer stickpack LiPos with a length below 134 mm, which should fit nicely even in problematic chassis types.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
8 hours ago, GregM said:

Tamiya WRC, have a look at the max. length of your battery compartment. As discussed in this thread, the majority of stickpack shaped LiPos have a length of 138 mm, which may exceed the available compartment space. A minority of manufacturers offer stickpack LiPos with a length below 134 mm, which should fit nicely even in problematic chassis types.

Hello! ...I think from all lipo batteries which I seen on web and also fits in Tamiya chassis is this only one which has quite good specification...all others are not good for use with combo motor...maybe you have some idea for some powerful 2S lipo battery? ...I dont see the problem in length of battery 138mm...it is tight but it fits...thanks.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi tamiya wrc, this is the battery that I tried by myself with 12.5 turns and 16.5 turns sensorless brushless combos.

There are some similar batteries mentioned in this thread that will fit into cramped compartments with having no more than 134 - 135 mm length.

 

What battery suits you best depends on your motor, gearing and last but not least battery compartment constraints. Again, I'm not sure on the constraints of the TL-01, I think the battery tabs on this one might be extended to fit the oversized 138 mm LiPo stickpacks.

Plus, you don't need to worry too much about the battery's C-rating for leisurely running. Usually, the LiPos currently available on the market are able to deliver enough current for any situation given.

Cheers, GregM

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
12 hours ago, GregM said:

Hi tamiya wrc, this is the battery that I tried by myself with 12.5 turns and 16.5 turns sensorless brushless combos.

There are some similar batteries mentioned in this thread that will fit into cramped compartments with having no more than 134 - 135 mm length.

 

What battery suits you best depends on your motor, gearing and last but not least battery compartment constraints. Again, I'm not sure on the constraints of the TL-01, I think the battery tabs on this one might be extended to fit the oversized 138 mm LiPo stickpacks.

Plus, you don't need to worry too much about the battery's C-rating for leisurely running. Usually, the LiPos currently available on the market are able to deliver enough current for any situation given.

Cheers, GregM

Hello! ...thanks for answer...I already ordered Turnigy nano-tech 4200mah 40 - 80C 2S2P Lipo battery...in specification it is mentioned that it is made for other tamiya chassis with similar compartment...hope that will fits in my tamiya TL01...your advice is good...high capacity battery, but low C rating and quite expensive battery...I think that the C rating also effect on life time of battery...the current which we calculate from C rating should bi bigger than the continuous current of ESC? ...what do you think about this charger https://hobbyking.com/en_us/accuell-s60-ac-charger-eu-plug.html ...thanks.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I don't see anything wrong with that charger, it should be fine.

A lot of manufacturers and sellers falsely claim their stickpack shaped batteries to be compatible with all stickpack battery compartments, when in fact they aren't due to the oversized battery length. If in doubt, stick to batteries under 135 mm in length.

Since c-ratings are all over the place when manufacturers advertise their batteries, I wouldn't put too much weight on the c-rating spec as long as you don't intend to run a serious racing car. If the motor draws more current than the battery can deliver, the car will just slow down or the battery's temperature rises. You can easily test this with hooking a NiMH battery hooked up to a brushless motor combo - you'll experience that a LiPo battery of same capacity will last longer and deliver more current to the motor. This is due to the LiPo's better efficiency, which wastes less stored power into heat than inefficient NiMH batteries.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 14. 12. 2016 at 3:40 PM, GregM said:

I don't see anything wrong with that charger, it should be fine.

A lot of manufacturers and sellers falsely claim their stickpack shaped batteries to be compatible with all stickpack battery compartments, when in fact they aren't due to the oversized battery length. If in doubt, stick to batteries under 135 mm in length.

Since c-ratings are all over the place when manufacturers advertise their batteries, I wouldn't put too much weight on the c-rating spec as long as you don't intend to run a serious racing car. If the motor draws more current than the battery can deliver, the car will just slow down or the battery's temperature rises. You can easily test this with hooking a NiMH battery hooked up to a brushless motor combo - you'll experience that a LiPo battery of same capacity will last longer and deliver more current to the motor. This is due to the LiPo's better efficiency, which wastes less stored power into heat than inefficient NiMH batteries.

Hello! ...I get the Lipo battery Turnigy nano-tech 4200mah 40 - 80C 2S2P a few days ago and it is not fit in TL01 chassis...it is not possible to put it in battery compartment :/

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Oh that's too bad, I feel for you. Is it the length, shape or thickness that prevents you from inserting the battery?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 19. 12. 2016 at 10:08 AM, GregM said:

Oh that's too bad, I feel for you. Is it the length, shape or thickness that prevents you from inserting the battery?

Hello! ...I don't see the problem in length...the shape si a little different on the edges of battery only...I think that I will just remove around 1 mm of plastic with sand paper and hope that the battery will fit.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

When being asked by Kevin for Hornet compatible LiPo batteries, I browsed the Tamico website and was delighted to see that they show exact battery dimensions for most of their stickpack LiPos now.

These are the ones that should fit, but keep in mind that I haven't tested them yet by myself:

Brainergy LiPo 2s/7,4V 4.000mAh 30C T-Stecker Racing-Pack
Yuki Model 801004
134 x 46 x 23,5 mm

https://tamico.de/navi.php?a=71265&lang=eng&

 

Gensace Lipo Akku 4000mAh 7.4V 25C 2S1P Hardcase (#8)
B-25C-4000-2S1P-HardCase-8
(Battery leads are off-center on this one)
134.53 * 48.23 * 23.54mm

https://tamico.de/navi.php?a=7113&lang=eng&
 

 

Amewi LiPo Akku 2S 7,4V Akku 3000mAh 20C
AW-28051
134 x 45,8 x 23,5mm

https://tamico.de/navi.php?a=206810&lang=eng&

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

My CoreRC is starting to show it's age. It still takes about 3500MAH when discharged to my usual level just like when it was new but it's losing punch and one of the cells is getting noticeably weaker.

It's not such an issue in every day use because they stay quite close down to about 3.4v and my cut off is above this but if I do a discharge cycle on the charger down to 3.0v per cell, the weak cell suddenly falls off a cliff at just under 3.4v and ends up at 3.0 while the other cell is still at about 3.37.

I've been looking around and it seems like the CoreRC is still the one to go for?

I could have handled the cell imbalance, most cells drift apart when you go low enough anyway but the lack of punch is getting quite noticeable, the internal resistance is on the rise and it's only going to get worse.

Strange that the capacity seems unaffected, perhaps the cell was always weaker and it's failing prematurely now. I can't grumble though, I've had a lot of use out of the pack.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, nowinaminute said:

My CoreRC is starting to show it's age. It still takes about 3500MAH when discharged to my usual level just like when it was new but it's losing punch and one of the cells is getting noticeably weaker.

It's not such an issue in every day use because they stay quite close down to about 3.4v and my cut off is above this but if I do a discharge cycle on the charger down to 3.0v per cell, the weak cell suddenly falls off a cliff at just under 3.4v and ends up at 3.0 while the other cell is still at about 3.37.

I've been looking around and it seems like the CoreRC is still the one to go for?

I could have handled the cell imbalance, most cells drift apart when you go low enough anyway but the lack of punch is getting quite noticeable, the internal resistance is on the rise and it's only going to get worse.

Strange that the capacity seems unaffected, perhaps the cell was always weaker and it's failing prematurely now. I can't grumble though, I've had a lot of use out of the pack.

 

I have 3 of these and 2 of them have started swelling - there is a gap in on side of the case.... but they still seem to function okay - I've had 2 of them for well over a year but no idea how many cycles they have been through.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

3.4V is over 95% discharged, I wouldn't worry about seeing and imbalance below that voltage. A lot of new packs would be lucky to have the cell capacity matched within 5% of each other.

From the literature I've seen, internal resistance increases at about the same rate in % as capacity decreases, so if you aren't seeing a significant decrease in capacity, I doubt the pack has increased in internal resistance appreciably. Given that LiPo internal resistance is incredibly low to begin with, I doubt you'd notice any difference in punch if the internal resistance increased by even 50% unless you have a really powerful system (perhaps 3S+, <10T brushless), unless you're putting it head to head against identical cars with new batteries. Not saying it's not possible, just that I was under the impression that you'd notice a significant decrease in capacity first.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×
×
  • Create New...