BUGGY CHAMP PAINTING

[FLEXUS]

Hi guys

im gonna paint my new buggy champ soon while the weather is still good.

as this is my first "hard body" i,ve painted im not 100% sure on a few things.

think im gonna stick to TS-12 orange and TS-13 clear coat for the body.

1.Do i need to sand the body before washing it?

2.I was goin to use tamiya fine surface white primer is this necessary?(im gonna prime the driver and spots etc)

3.how many cans of TS-12 orange will i need?

4.will the TS-13 give a nice shiny finish?

5. TS-12 ORANGE or TS-10 french BLUE?(still not sure)

even though it,ll be a runner i want to get the finish on the body and driver etc as good as possible.

cheers Karl

[Grastens]

Good evening:

From my experience-

1. If you are sanding the body then always wash it afterwards; that will remove the plastic particles from the sanding.

2. The surface primer is not necessary for a presentable finish but is recommended to get a top-notch finish.

3. You should be able to use one can of TS-12 Orange and get a good finish on the outside of the body; if you want to paint the inside as well for presentation then use two.

4. TS-13 Clear does actually give a nice finish. I used it on my Buggy Champ; while it is beyond filthy and well-worn now, in photographs it turned out quite beautifully after I had completed it:

(note the white plastic showing on the inside rear quarter in this picture; this was using one can of paint. If you want to cover the inside use two cans)

5. Up to you! TS-12 Orange is easier to spot when running, though.

I hope this helps; I had experience painting only one Buggy Champ body (and a few static models) though it is experience nonetheless. Looking forward to seeing the finished body!

[HunterZero]

You can probably do it with straight from the can with just 1 can of each - just. You will probably have to use part of a 2nd can. The more clear coat you put on, the deeper the finish will look. If you decant the spray and use it with an airbrush, you won't need to use as much.

The Buggy Champ body is white, if you sand the body with 400 grit and wash it thoroughly you don't need to prime.

Warm the paint in warm water before you spray. Dry the can thoroughly so you don't drip. Don't paint if the weather is too hot, or too cold, or too wet. Make a booth to paint in with a cover to prevent dust and other objects falling into the wet paint.

Don't be tempted to spray the paint on and cover the body in one go, the paint will sag and run. Start with very light mist coats when you first start spraying the colour and clear. Wait 15 mins or so between coats. Each subsequent coat will build up the colour. When you have built up a solid coverage with several light coats, you can then apply a wet coat. Spray until the paint starts to gloss up and flatten, then STOP.

Wait for a few days (ideally a week or more) for the colour to cure, then do the same thing with the clear coat. Go REALLY carefully with clear, it's very easy to get runs. Do the same process - build up a coverage with thin coats, then do a final wet coat.

TS-13 will give a nice glossy finish if applied carefully, but for a flawless finish, you will have to wetsand with fine sandpaper 1000 to 2000 grit to get the orange peel out and polish to a shine. Tamiya do make finishing abrasive polishes, but pure car polish and wax work well for this.

- James

[TongueTied]

TS-13 will give a nice glossy finish if applied carefully, but for a flawless finish, you will have to wetsand with fine sandpaper 1000 to 2000 grit to get the orange peel out and polish to a shine. Tamiya do make finishing abrasive polishes, but pure car polish and wax work well for this.

Orange peel! Really? Does it work well as compared to car polish?

[FLEXUS]

Good evening:

From my experience-

1. If you are sanding the body then always wash it afterwards; that will remove the plastic particles from the sanding.

(note the white plastic showing on the inside rear quarter in this picture; this was using one can of paint. If you want to cover the inside use two cans)

Alright Grastens

thanks for the advice mate.

thats a nice looking buggy champ.

regarding question 1. i meant to say does the body need to be sanded.i was always gonna wash the body after sanding if required before priming and painting.

i did,nt word it very well although Hunter Zero as answered for us.

i,ve ordered two cans of TS-12 so i can do the inside as well.

yeah i,ll deffo be posting some pictures mate when its done.

You can probably do it with straight from the can with just 1 can of each - just. You will probably have to use part of a 2nd can. The more clear coat you put on, the deeper the finish will look. If you decant the spray and use it with an airbrush, you won't need to use as much.

The Buggy Champ body is white, if you sand the body with 400 grit and wash it thoroughly you don't need to prime.

Warm the paint in warm water before you spray. Dry the can thoroughly so you don't drip. Don't paint if the weather is too hot, or too cold, or too wet. Make a booth to paint in with a cover to prevent dust and other objects falling into the wet paint.

Don't be tempted to spray the paint on and cover the body in one go, the paint will sag and run. Start with very light mist coats when you first start spraying the colour and clear. Wait 15 mins or so between coats. Each subsequent coat will build up the colour. When you have built up a solid coverage with several light coats, you can then apply a wet coat. Spray until the paint starts to gloss up and flatten, then STOP.

Wait for a few days (ideally a week or more) for the colour to cure, then do the same thing with the clear coat. Go REALLY carefully with clear, it's very easy to get runs. Do the same process - build up a coverage with thin coats, then do a final wet coat.

TS-13 will give a nice glossy finish if applied carefully, but for a flawless finish, you will have to wetsand with fine sandpaper 1000 to 2000 grit to get the orange peel out and polish to a shine. Tamiya do make finishing abrasive polishes, but pure car polish and wax work well for this.

- James

Alright James

thanks again for the detailed advice mate.

great looking buggy champ as well,liking the alloys mate.think you need to do the tyre lettering though.

after spraying several light coats mate you then say apply a "wet coat" how is this done?

is this a thicker final coat?

also you say TS-13 will give a nice glossy finish but for a flawless finish i,ll have to wetsand and polish to remove the orange peel.

is this process done before applying the clear coat (sand the TS-12 orange first) or after applying the TS-13 clearcoat?

cheers again guys Karl

Orange peel! Really? Does it work well as compared to car polish?

alright tongue tied

he does,nt mean use orange peel instead of car polish.

"orange peel effect" is a name given to certain paint jobs where the finish looks like.as the name says orange peel.

[KEV THE REV]

Cut back paint with very fine wet and dry , but don't use polish as it will affect any further coats , only polish when you are finishing the paint job after cutting back the final coat , patience is the key , don't rush any of it , if you do get a paint 'run' let it dry , don't touch it while it is wet , once dry , cut it back with w&d again , don't spray the clear 'wet' coat too heavy either as it will run but it is fixable as above

[igbandy]

When applying the paint and clear coat, remember this

Less is more

Light dustings only, this will give a better finish. Until recently I was quite heavy handed with paint, but I have had some very good pointers from a pro 1:1 car painter over the last few months.

[Grastens]

Alright Grastens

thanks for the advice mate.

thats a nice looking buggy champ.

regarding question 1. i meant to say does the body need to be sanded.i was always gonna wash the body after sanding if required before priming and painting.

i did,nt word it very well although Hunter Zero as answered for us.

i,ve ordered two cans of TS-12 so i can do the inside as well.

yeah i,ll deffo be posting some pictures mate when its done.

Thanks!

I know I recommended two cans when painting the body inside and out, but in reality you should be fine with using the first can and only part of the second can. Best of luck with the bodywork!

[HunterZero]

Haha, yes I meant the wrinkly effect in paint like the texture surface of an orange, not actual orange peel!

Yes, the wet coat is a thicker final coat, sprayed holding the can a bit closer to what you are spraying. It usually only takes a few passes in quick succession to build up enough paint with a rattle can. The surface will start to 'melt' together, level out and look wet and glossy. It should stay that way as it dries. Mist coats can look quite dull and wrinkly, a wet coat looks more even and glossier. The wet coat technique gives quite a good gloss coat, and is pretty acceptable even if you don't wetsand if you don't mind a bit of texture in the paint (but real 1:1 cars have texture in the paint too). For the smooth as glass finish, you need to clear coat, wetsand and polish.

Spray painting takes a good bit of practise to get right.

I do need to get around to the tire lettering, but the thing that bugs me is that while the BC re-re rear tires have the awesome "Sand Blaster 915" lettering, the fronts just have the word "Tamiya", so it looks a little wrong. I'd love to get a pair of Sand Blaster Jrs for the front.

I painted the white by the way, it's not a sticker, so it's a 3 colour paint job. I used the white decals in the kit to create masking templates with Tamiya masking tape.

- James

[FLEXUS]

Hi guys

thanks for your advice and replys.

Haha, yes I meant the wrinkly effect in paint like the texture surface of an orange, not actual orange peel!

that one made me laugh as well mate.

I do need to get around to the tire lettering, but the thing that bugs me is that while the BC re-re rear tires have the awesome "Sand Blaster 915" lettering, the fronts just have the word "Tamiya", so it looks a little wrong. I'd love to get a pair of Sand Blaster Jrs for the front.

yeah i was thinking that as well.

how come some B/C,s have the front sand blaster jrs and even the box art shows them?

are they off the original "rough rider"?take it they are hard to come by?

I painted the white by the way, it's not a sticker, so it's a 3 colour paint job. I used the white decals in the kit to create masking templates with Tamiya masking tape.

i was thinking i was goin to spray the white but i think i,ll stick to using the decals.

do they cover the orange ok?

thanks again boys for all your advice

cheers Karl

[HunterZero]

how come some B/C,s have the front sand blaster jrs and even the box art shows them?

are they off the original "rough rider"?take it they are hard to come by?

They'd be original Rough Rider Sand Blaster Jrs. Yes, they're hard to find.

i was thinking i was goin to spray the white but i think i,ll stick to using the decals.

do they cover the orange ok?

Yes, they cover perfectly. That green BC above looks to have had the decals applied.

The reason I sprayed the white is because I wanted to use genuine sponsor decals (you can see the Auto Haus and Penzoil decals on the white). The 'fake' sponsor decals (Freeflo Filters, RM Racing) are printed on the white panels on the BC decal sheet.

- J

[FLEXUS]

Hi guys

how long do i have to leave the primer to cure before painting?

the weather looks like bein good this monday so if i prime all the parts on sunday will i be ok to paint on monday or im i best leaving it longer to cure?

cheers Karl

[bromvw]

Hi guys

how long do i have to leave the primer to cure before painting?

the weather looks like bein good this monday so if i prime all the parts on sunday will i be ok to paint on monday or im i best leaving it longer to cure?

cheers Karl

You should be fine . I've shot top coat over primer a hour after applying it with no issues . Just leave the finished job at least a week to cure before doing any rubbing down . If you use clear coat then again leave it a week or so to cure before buffing and polishing . BTW i've found automotive spray cans ( Halfords brand) to give great results . Better value than most and a bigger can with the advantage of being able to match 1.1 colours .

[FLEXUS]

Hi guys

after sanding and washing i primed my B/C and the driver etc today while the weather was good and wind free, but after checking the body i,ve noticed quite a lot of dust etc on it.

i sprayed outdoors but inside a large box to try and protect it from any dust.

as i dont have a proper spray booth with extraction fitted what is the best method to prevent any dust particles?

would i be better using a old can as a handle and spraying in the open or try again in the box?

before i spray the top coat i,ll sand it down using wet&dry 1500 then wash to remove the dust particles is this correct?

how and where do you guys paint for a good finish?

cheers Karl

p.s i sprayed my hotshot in a box indoors(winter time) and achieved a good finish although i got some dust on it the fact its on the inside it did not affect the finish.

[bromvw]

Ok Karl . Quick pointers on painting . Get one of those pvc mini greenhouse's from B&Q ect . They make a good make shift spray booth . Always damp the spray booth down before starting - use a fine mist . This will catch the dust .For extraction i use a household vac . Just cut a hole in the PVC and gaffer tape the vac pipe to the hole . Last tip is to give the body a good wipe over with a tac cloth after washing it - Halford's sell these . Basically what i'am saying is treat the scale jobs as you would a 1.1 spray job .

[FLEXUS]

Ok Karl . Quick pointers on painting . Get one of those pvc mini greenhouse's from B&Q ect . They make a good make shift spray booth . Always damp the spray booth down before starting - use a fine mist . This will catch the dust .For extraction i use a household vac . Just cut a hole in the PVC and gaffer tape the vac pipe to the hole . Last tip is to give the body a good wipe over with a tac cloth after washing it - Halford's sell these . Basically what i'am saying is treat the scale jobs as you would a 1.1 spray job .

Alright mate

thanks for the advice.

i was thinking today of putting a hole in the back and attaching the dyson.

the mini greenhouse sounds good i,ll check them out.

i think a read somewhere today not to spray on humid days wont dampening the booth cause this?

thanks again bromvw for the pointers.

cheers Karl

[GregM]

FYI, Johnny Retro has written some great articles (10 parts so far) about painting R/C car bodies, these may prove helpful for you:

http://www.tamiyabase.com/Blog/

[bromvw]

Alright mate

thanks for the advice.

i was thinking today of putting a hole in the back and attaching the dyson.

the mini greenhouse sounds good i,ll check them out.

i think a read somewhere today not to spray on humid days wont dampening the booth cause this?

thanks again bromvw for the pointers.

cheers Karl

lol Karl - dampen the booth then give it a hour or so to air dry . On a warm day like today it will dry in no time .

[Sayer]

i was thinking today of putting a hole in the back and attaching the dyson.

Well, maybe not the dyson. Aren't those things powered by a harnessed singularity?

[FLEXUS]

Hi guys

i,ve finished painting my B/C shell so here it is.

i used two cans of TS-12 orange and a can of TS-13 clear lacquer. and gave the inside a few coats as well.

im quite pleased with the finish (for a runner) although i think i should have sprayed a thicker final wet coat to give a shinier finish although i was a bit bothered about getting runs especially with the TS-13.

there are a few bits of dust which is a bit annoying,and a bit of paint texture due to spraying fine mist coats.(i think)

would i be best to wet sand then polish or will just polishing be ok?

i also have some rubbing compound would this be ok to use before a final polish?

http://img845.images...i/snv37699.jpg/

http://img585.images...i/snv37700.jpg/

http://img836.images...i/snv37695.jpg/

http://img694.images...i/snv37697.jpg/

cheers Karl

[Percymon]

Leave if for 5 days and then use the rubbing compound.

[FLEXUS]

Leave if for 5 days and then use the rubbing compound.

alright mate

after using the rubbing compound will it then be ok to polish with standard car wax?

cheers Karl