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GregM

New Tamiya RC items to be presented at 52th All Japan Model Hobby Show 2012

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So does anybody see an Asterion in their future? I don't think I do - if I get an XV01, it'll be in rally guise.

Anybody have any good links to any more DF02 Aero Avante pics yet?

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If you reverse the chassis and put motor in the rear end should be good.

I don't like this chassis, even for rally cars. Why front motor?

Max

i wonder if they cut the nose so there is some airflow.

shame about the truck though.

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I on the other hand love forward engined belt cars, ever since the ta03f. I don't know why, but I always preferred driving those

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If you reverse the chassis and put motor in the rear end should be good.

I don't like this chassis, even for rally cars. Why front motor?

Max

The front mount motor in the TA03F is great for onroad rally and drifting. They are very positive in their steering response and easy to get the rear out and balance it there. If I didn't already have a TA03F (x2), I would be going for a XV01 for my onroad rally cars.

Offroad though I prefer to use the TA02 rally chassis with it's fully sealed driveline, good ground clearance, mid mount motor and good approach and departure angles of the chassis. The TL01 would have made an alright rally chassis too if it wasn't for the complete lack of front caster and it's inherent understeer.

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I also notice the BF Goodrich is gone from the tyres and replaced with non licenced lettering. This is a shame.

I found a slightly larger picture of the Asterion using Google Images; the lettering on the sides of the tires reads, "Tamiya Racing." At least it doesn't read "Terrific Tyres" to go with their "Brite Lites" fake brand.

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I suppose that the front motor is very good for drifting and on road rally too but I believe no good on rally off road. I think that every jump with all the weight on the front end the car dives always and hits the ground with the nose. I had this problem with mod motor TA02, I suppose that TA03 and XV is worse than TA02. Maybe TA01 is the better choice cause the motor is more rear than TA01 but never used it in off road running.

Do you agree with my idea?

Max

Post Scriptum: my next rally off road car probably will be the DF-03 with slippery clutch and 5 stars steel clutch gear. I own a Dark Impact and I'm very impressed by the performance.

The front mount motor in the TA03F is great for onroad rally and drifting. They are very positive in their steering response and easy to get the rear out and balance it there. If I didn't already have a TA03F (x2), I would be going for a XV01 for my onroad rally cars.

Offroad though I prefer to use the TA02 rally chassis with it's fully sealed driveline, good ground clearance, mid mount motor and good approach and departure angles of the chassis. The TL01 would have made an alright rally chassis too if it wasn't for the complete lack of front caster and it's inherent understeer.

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I suppose that the front motor is very good for drifting and on road rally too but I believe no good on rally off road. I think that every jump with all the weight on the front end the car dives always and hits the ground with the nose. I had this problem with mod motor TA02, I suppose that TA03 and XV is worse than TA02. Maybe TA01 is the better choice cause the motor is more rear than TA01 but never used it in off road running.

Do you agree with my idea?

Max

Are you using a very heavy Ni-MH/Ni-Cd pack in the TA02? Where do you have the ESC and receiver mounted? I don't have any nose diving or front end bottoming issues with my TA02 rally car. It's using the HPI tub with the battery up the middle and Li-Po packs.

The TA01 doesn't have a very good front steering knuckle geometry. Which greatly affects turn in and cornering stability. I guess you could run the TA01, but fit the TA02's front suspension to gain more rear weight bias while maintaining the better position of the steering kingpin if using ancient heavy battery technology.

The DF03RA is a good, well balanced chassis. Only problem I really had with mine after I solved the mainshaft wear issue was the occasional small rock caught in the steering bellcranks which jammed up the steering.

I would not be running the XV01 offroad here in my running conditions. The belt is not so much sealed as it is shielded like in the DB01, and the DB01 chews out it's pulleys on my track.

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Rally cars are not buggies or trophy trucks so you shouldn't be doing big jumps anyway...

Regardless it's pretty easy to learn how to jump front engine cars...you just don't let off the throttle so soon during the jump.

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The gray star-dish wheels are cool. I hope they make the 2WD fronts too, so I put them on my Dyna Storm.

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I used Ni-Mh heavy packs with original FRP chassis and receiver/esc mounted on rear end of the chassis. Probably diving depends also from the shape of the jumps on my local track.

Same idea. Front end from TA02 and rear end from TA01 could be the solution.

DF-03RA you should use aluminium parts for the steering cranks.

XV01 and off road? No way.

MAx

Are you using a very heavy Ni-MH/Ni-Cd pack in the TA02? Where do you have the ESC and receiver mounted? I don't have any nose diving or front end bottoming issues with my TA02 rally car. It's using the HPI tub with the battery up the middle and Li-Po packs.

The TA01 doesn't have a very good front steering knuckle geometry. Which greatly affects turn in and cornering stability. I guess you could run the TA01, but fit the TA02's front suspension to gain more rear weight bias while maintaining the better position of the steering kingpin if using ancient heavy battery technology.

The DF03RA is a good, well balanced chassis. Only problem I really had with mine after I solved the mainshaft wear issue was the occasional small rock caught in the steering bellcranks which jammed up the steering.

I would not be running the XV01 offroad here in my running conditions. The belt is not so much sealed as it is shielded like in the DB01, and the DB01 chews out it's pulleys on my track.

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DF-03RA you should use aluminium parts for the steering cranks.

I have them, but still get the occasional jammed steering.

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I would not be running the XV01 offroad here in my running conditions. The belt is not so much sealed as it is shielded like in the DB01, and the DB01 chews out it's pulleys on my track.

Shielded belts always seem like paying the problem lip service rather than solving it.

An open belt has the possibility of debris getting in everywhere, but a shielded belt while limiting the entry points, ensures that whatever debris gets in (and accumulates) is kept as close as possible to moving parts. So which is better really?

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Modelsport have the black edition listed as pre-order for £114 (incl TEU105 ESC), which is only £15 more than the std VLB. Description states prepainted black body and three piece wheels for added realism - looks a bit of a score if you don't want the yellow stock look.

http://www.modelspor...products/370624

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Shielded belts always seem like paying the problem lip service rather than solving it.

An open belt has the possibility of debris getting in everywhere, but a shielded belt while limiting the entry points, ensures that whatever debris gets in (and accumulates) is kept as close as possible to moving parts. So which is better really?

I'd argue that sealing the drivetrain, instead of shielding the drivetrain, would be the way to go. Wherever there are holes, cracks, slits -- anything that compromises the chamber where the belt is located -- there is an opportunity to use foam tape, thin felt, air filter material, inner tube rubber, a bead of grease, RTV, plastic patches, etc. to fill the gaps.

The one part of the DB01 chassis that puzzles me is the hole in the bottom center of the chassis. In one of the first steps of the instruction manual, there's a small plastic plug that gets screwed into place to cover that hole. The problem is that the plug really does not fill the hole completely. It would almost be better to plug that hole from the inside by gluing some plastic over it, then filling it from the outside with some epoxy to seal it 100%.

The other parts of the DB01 chassis that aren't quite sealed are the two oval-shaped plugs that fit between the diff covers and the main chassis tub. The plugs float just a little bit in their holes. I think there's an opportunity here to wrap the lips of the plugs with 1/16" or 1/8" Pactra or Tamiya masking tape (like what is used to mask bodies) once to take up that gap and provide a tighter seal.

Maybe someone with an XV01 can comment on sealing their belts...

-Paul

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TS-89 is pearl blue for hard bodies; some images suggest its a lot lighter than that hobby show image though

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Anyone knows something about this new color please?

http://tamiyablog.co...amiya-85089.jpg

Max

Tamiyablog doesn't allow hotlinking pictures*, I can't see anything but a message by clicking on that link. Could you please provide a link to the related article? Thank you.

*That's for a reason, cause direct hotlinking of pictures causes unnecessary costs for the host of Tamiyablog.

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Sorry I didn't know it. I corrected the link to the general article but I leave it again:

http://tamiyablog.com/2012/10/tamiya-new-items-photos-from-52th-all-japan-model-hobby-show-booth/

Max

Tamiyablog doesn't allow hotlinking pictures*, I can't see anything but a message by clicking on that link. Could you please provide a link to the related article? Thank you.

*That's for a reason, cause direct hotlinking of pictures causes unnecessary costs for the host of Tamiyablog.

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The Aero Avante looks like it is polycarbonate and the BRZ R&D Sport is absolutely gorgeous, no questions asked! I could pore over these photos all night... Nice to see the Yardley McLaren in model kit form, too.

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Looks like Tamiya is sneakfully re-releasing all the "square-spike" tires with the Avante Aero. Interdasting.

Oooh....and the fancy FF03 has a full carbon-fiber plate chassis. :D

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Also some kinda Steering-Assist unit shown in the "Radio Systems" section, but no description yet:

http://www.tamiyausa...hp?sub-id=28000

Tamiya-Active-Steering-Assist-Unit-TGU-01.jpg

Tamiya introduces the "Active Steering Assist Unit TGU-01" in front of steering assistance for RC Cars. The gyro system is connected between the receiver and servo and regulate the counter-steering. An integrated sensor detects it the drift angle of the vehicle, and automatically directs to prevent spin. The system is available in Japan from the end of November 2012 for MSRP 8820 yen (about 87 euros).

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